P2 Turbo PCV System Servicing Options

[prwood]

I am planning to service the PCV system in my 2001 V70 2.4T, with 215k miles, due to the following symptoms:

* Smoke issuing from oil dipstick hole when dipstick is removed while engine running
* Inflating rubber glove on oil filler cap
* Oil leaks and infrequently the turbo charge air pipe popping loose if we run the engine with the dipstick inserted
* No recorded history of PCV system service from prior owner (2001-2015)

We've been running with the dipstick removed for several months now to help relieve crankcase pressure.

I have watched a few videos on servicing the PCV system on other P2 models whose engine compartments bear a strong resemblance to mine:

* 2006 S60 2.5T:



* 2003 XC70:



The options I see are:

* Disassemble, remove, and inspect the system. Then, either:
1. Clean parts with carb cleaner/compressed air/whatever kind of scraper or scalpel is necessary, and reassemble.
2. Replace everything with a kit like this: https://www.ipdusa.com/products/11110/1 ... xc70-turbo (OE, $214 at ipdusa)
3. Replace everything except crankcase breather pipe with a kit like this: https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/volvo- ... bo-v70t100 (Genuine Volvo, $117.99 at FCP Euro); clean old crankcase breather pipe as best as possible.

Can anyone make a recommendation on the options above, based on personal experience? Cost of repair is very important to me, but if an option is just plain dumb then I'd like to know.

Also, any recommendation on alternative sourcing for parts?

Finally, any recommendations on other video guidance or documentation for PCV system servicing on a P2 Turbo model? Other than the videos I cited above, most of the videos and documentation I've seen are for P80 models or non-Turbo P2 models, both of which seem to differ from P2 Turbos.

[leapdragon]

I just did mine recently on an '02 V70, I'm guessing similar. I did option #3. I think you should replace at least the breather box and the two hoses in the #3 option kit.

The hardest part of course is the intake manifold—getting it off was tough, getting it back on even tougher. And I had to do it twice (more on this in a second). I did checks in all the preserved tubing to make sure that it was clear, still intact, and I checked the PTC nipple (mine was clear), etc.

Some key points:

1 — You'll need a crow's foot and a bunch of extensions and patience for the lower passenger-side intake manifold bolt. It will seem impossible at first. Then once you've figured it out it will seem only mostly impossible.

2 — The ETM-air tube attachment is also hard to get to. Plan on spending some time, both off and on. Also, clean out the throttle module while you're in there. Mine was thoroughly gunked up.

3 — The banjo bolt on the underside of the intake manifold is the big PITA of the job. A socket will not fit. Even the ratchet without a socket won't fit. You have about two-thirds of centimeter to play with to get the wrench in and over the bolt head. You'll need an old-fashioned drop-forged single-piece wrench with an angled head on one end. Go very slowly so you don't drop/lose parts, either the two crush washers, top and bottom, or the bolt itself. Be sure the bolt is clean and clear and that the fitting is also clean and clear. Prepare for cursing and injured hands, both coming apart and going back together. The manifold will move almost not at all until it's off, and you'll have to work it into that same no-movement-at-all-but-I-have-to-get-my-hand-in-there position to get it back on again afterward.

4 — If the '01 is the same as the '02 in terms of fuel line, you'll need a fuel line quick disconnect tool for the hard fuel line. Runs about $10 at an auto parts store. You'll also need a bunch of patience and ingenuity to figure out how to get the manifold off around that line without bending it. But it *is* possible.

5 — You *will* break the hardened plastic line in the middle of the three lines that attach to that banjo bolt that attaches to the bottom of the manifold. It is coated with black foam, but there is a (by now) brittle hard line inside the foam. I sliced the foam off and replaced the line with thick-walled silicone breather line. It's got about 1,000 miles on it now and is working fine so far as I can tell. Not realizing that this was broken was reason #1 it all had to come back off again—upon reassembly I heard a bit hiss but couldn't see anything disconnected. The his was inside the foam exterior—inside, the hard line had shattered.

6 — Be very careful putting the breather box on the crankcase. That little rubber elbow is easy to attach with a lip bent over and inward on the bottom of the crankcase attachment. I clamped mine down folded over like that and it cracked very quickly. That's reason #2 it all had to come back off again. The part is only about $10 at a Volvo dealership, but you have to go all the way to fully disassembled again to do it over.

7 — Be sure to check the lower line leading into the crankcase. Mine was fully blocked at the breather box and hard to clear. I was worried that I'd have to drop the oil pan. The test is to get some 5/8 rubber hose at the parts store (about 3 feet of it cost me $3.00 or so) and stick that on the lower line, then blow into it to see if air moves freely once you've cleared the hole. Luckily mine did, and I heard the oil bubbling when I blew. If you're totally blocked, you'll have to drop the oil pan to clean out the blockage. :-/

8 — After doing it, I ran some Pennzoil Ultra Plantinum for a few hundred miles on a new filter, then drained it and put the same back in with another new filter, just to be sure that any dislodged gunk was cleaned out well.

There's nothing technically scary or challenging in all of this. But it is a HUGE PITA, plan for teeth-gritting patience. Took me about 12 hours total (to do it twice—about 8-9 hours the first time, maybe 3 the second time once I knew where everything was).

Work slowly so that you don't drop stuff: crow's foot, sockets, manifold bolts, clamps, etc. Then just follow your nose. Keep two or three powerful lights on hand to help you to light up the crevices. Probably best to get everything you might need beforehand so that you have the fewest number of trips possible to make.

Oh, I almost forgot:

#1a — Do yourself a favor and unhang the power steering pump if it looks like it will give you more room (it did in my case—a lot). Pull up the power steering reservoir, pop off the serpentine belt, and remove the four bolts (through the pulley) that hold it in place. Then it slides off to the side, out of the way, giving you much-needed room to get your 17mm wrench in there for that damned banjo bolt.

[JRL]

REPLACE ALL PARTS
You can't clean those old parts but make SURE to clean out the passage to the pan.
Sometimes this can be very difficult to do properly and not knock the gunk down into the opening

[abscate]

I got to my intake bolts with a simple 1/4 inch ratchet and an extension. Smaller sockets fit in those spaces better. A magnet on telescoping rod is great for pickup dropped stuff. Remember the lower intake manifold bolts just need three half turns loose, they don't need to come out.

You can bend the hard fuel line 30-45 degrees to get the manifold off, then bend it back. Use a spray can as a guide to smoothly bend it without kinking.

Don't forget to add your opinion to the great " which way does the metal on the PCV crankcase drain go?"

[prwood]

Crankcase breather hose - necessary to replace? Worth an extra $100? Or just blast the old one with compressed air?

https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/volvo- ... 70-9470330

[JRL]

If you don't replace that hose with your miles, don't waste your time doing the job at all.
It's not cleanable and it has two "nipples" inside of it that clog.

There is a "cheat" way of doing this using a $35 part from a XC90T6 and "mating it" to the balance of your original tube that you need to cut about a 1/3 of it off.
However, with your miles I would be hesitant to advise you to do it with your wagon and your very high miles.

[chrism]

"...You'll need a crow's foot and a bunch of extensions and patience for the lower passenger-side intake manifold bolt. It will seem impossible at first. Then once you've figured it out it will seem only mostly impossible..."

"...I got to my intake bolts with a simple 1/4 inch ratchet and an extension..."

It would be interesting to see somebody try to replace that bolt with a torx head which requires a much skinnier tool to R&R - or maybe all of the manifold bolts, for that matter, so that they match.

[abscate]

Torx on the bottom ones would be great! Maybe someone will read this before the job and pick that up

I just want to reiterate the replace strategy here. The plastic in these parts gets brittle after 100k of oil soaking and I found my 1999 was all crunchy and broke on removal - no way would I want that back on the car.

[prwood]

Thanks for the advice everyone. It sounds like having the right tools is key for this job. As far as tools for this job, I have a basic 3/8" drive ratchet and socket set, as well as a full set of traditional wrenches. I also already have:

* long-skinny-handled, hinged head 3/8" drive ratchet
* 3/8" drive universal joint
* 3", 6", 12" 3/8" drive extensions
* 3/8" drive metric crows foot heads (used these with a ratchet and extension when working on the power steering high pressure hose)
* magnet on telescoping rod (this has been a lifesaver on other jobs)
* 3/8" to 1/4" drive adapter, with a handful of smaller sized 1/4" drive sockets

Any other tools/adapters that might make the PITA bolts easier to get out? My plan is to order the complete kit to do the job this weekend, and go out and buy any extra tools needed locally.

Also:

5 — You *will* break the hardened plastic line in the middle of the three lines that attach to that banjo bolt that attaches to the bottom of the manifold. It is coated with black foam, but there is a (by now) brittle hard line inside the foam. I sliced the foam off and replaced the line with thick-walled silicone breather line. It's got about 1,000 miles on it now and is working fine so far as I can tell. Not realizing that this was broken was reason #1 it all had to come back off again—upon reassembly I heard a bit hiss but couldn't see anything disconnected. The his was inside the foam exterior—inside, the hard line had shattered.

Where can I get this type of breather line? Available in local places like AutoZone or Advance, or will I need to order online?

[prwood]

Just wanted to post an update with my progress on the PCV job, and notes and observations so far. The current status is that the new PCV system is in place, but I still need to reinstall the intake manifold/throttle/injectors, hook all the hoses and cables up, and put back all the air intake and other peripheral components I moved out of the way to gain access. I was pretty exhausted from working all day Saturday and half of the day Sunday, so I'm taking tonight off and hopefully will finish up tomorrow night.

0. I wish I had a permanent car repair area that was covered, had a level surface, lighting and fans, a workbench, and tool cabinets. You know, like a garage. Much of my time during the job is spent hauling things up and down the stairs to the basement or in and out of the storage shed, or running back downstairs when I realize I need something else, or taking a break from standing out in the sun, or using flashlights or work lamps when it gets dark.

1. Just to make things complicated, a few days before I had planned to do the PCV job, my alternator died. Being under warranty from Advance, I had them replace it, but had to remove the alternator in order to get the replacement. Since I knew I was planning to do the PCV job on the weekend, I left everything taken apart and didn't install the new alternator. That made the taking apart and putting back together for the PCV job a bit easier.

2. I couldn't find a very efficient way to remove the Oetiker clamps from Volvo's hoses. I tried using wire cutters, but they wouldn't snip the clamps. Maybe too dull? I ended up using a combination of wire cutters and pliers to pry off each of these clamps. It took a while.

3. I used this organization method for all screws and nuts that I removed in the process of the job. Made things a LOT easier. I kept it on a work table a little bit away from the car so that it wouldn't get upended. Yes, I know my handwriting is bad. Incidentally, as I put bolts back in, I gave each of them a good brushing with a wire brush to remove any debris from the threads.

Screw Organization.JPG (272.17 KiB) Viewed 6075 times

4. I didn't have any trouble getting to the lower left manifold bolt as others had noted. I used a 3/8" drive socket on an extension. Of course, I had also removed the fan shroud, the alternator, and moved the power steering pump, so maybe that made it easier. It seems like there are two schools of thought on these things - spend less time removing components and more time working out methods to get at the bolts, or spend more time removing components and less time working out how to get the bolts. I like the second way better, even if it does take longer.

5. I recommend draining some coolant from the radiator and removing the upper radiator hose to make access easier. Also, if I do anything like this again, I'd also drain coolant from the engine block, as it's pretty awkward to try and catch it from under the banjo bolts.

6. None of the tutorials I read or videos I watched covered *replacing* the long crankcase breather hose that runs from the PCV box back to the Turbo. They just covered disconnecting it at the PCV box, so that you could get the PCV box and attached hoses out.

7. I didn't have a hard time getting the banjo bolt off from the corner of the manifold, but again, maybe this was because I already had the alternator, power steering pump, and fan shroud out of the way.

8. The banjo bolt on the other end of the crankcase hose, back by the turbo, seemed like it was going to be tricky, and I spent a while figuring out ways to get at it. Then I realized that it was actually just covered by a removable plate held on with some pretty huge bolts. Once I took the plate off, it was pretty easy to get at that bolt. Based on my observations, the purposes of the plate appear to be: a) To serve as a mounting interface between the engine block and a bracket that consists of an engine lift eyelet and a guide channel for the turbo hoses, and b) To serve as a mounting interface between two of the engine mount bolts and the engine block. I have since replaced it and torqued it down pretty hard, which I felt comfortable doing considering the beefiness of the bolts and the fact that it needs to support the engine mount.

Here it is:

engine mount plate.JPG (886.27 KiB) Viewed 6075 times

The banjo bolt was tucked right behind that area on the right of the plate where there are no screws.

9. Since my alternator was out and I couldn't start the car (which I hadn't planned on) I wasn't able to purge the fuel line as described elsewhere, by starting the engine and then removing the fuel pump fuse. I used the valve on the end of the fuel rail to purge what I could, but the system had apparently already depressurized and nothing came out. That being said, the fuel rail still wasn't drained when I disconnected the fuel line, so there was some fuel spillage there, and also some once I had the manifold off and had upended the rail, out of the open fuel line. Next time I'd have a container ready to catch the fuel.

10. Some of you may have seen one of the other threads I started related to collateral damage, where I cracked the plastic casing on one of my ignition coils: viewtopic.php?f=9&t=82162 -- As a preventative measure for this sort of thing in the future, I recommend replacing the plastic engine cover after you have disconnected the PCV hose from the upper opening, if for no other reason than to protect the ignition coils and other things under it while you're doing the rest of the job. I don't believe any of the videos or tutorials I saw mentioned doing this. Maybe others aren't as clumsy.

11. Also, the other thread I started related to collateral damage was regarding broken/missing plastic pintle caps on the ends of the fuel injectors after having removed them from the manifold: viewtopic.php?f=9&t=82145 The upshot of the thread, as well as my communication with iPd, is that they're not really necessary and there's not need to replace them, unless you're a perfectionist. I wish I had known this in the beginning, because the pintle cap incident cost me at least two hours of obsessively researching them, looking for replacements, going out to buy replacements, finding out the replacements weren't the right replacements, finding out if I needed to replace them, etc. So for those who come after me, please know that if you remove your fuel injectors and the pintle cap is broken or missing, you can chill. In the words of iPd customer service, who I contacted asking if they had replacement parts for this, "The good news is that you really don't need it."

Also, fun side note, here is the origin of the word "pintle:"

Old English pintel ‘penis,’ perhaps a diminutive; compare with Dutch pint and German Pint ‘penis,’ of unknown ultimate origin.

12. Here's the current state of my engine bay:

FullSizeRender.jpg (2.7 MiB) Viewed 6075 times

PCV system is all in place and hooked up except for connections to the intake, etc. I'm taking a break for tonight, and tomorrow night I hope to finish up by reinstalling and connecting the manifold, throttle, and injectors, and then all the other plastic pipes and components I had removed. I haven't decided whether to try starting the engine with the cracked ignition coil, or hold off until the one I ordered from eBay arrives on Friday.