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1999 C70 quit running while driving down the road ( recloned ECU) Topic is solved

Help, Advice and DIY Tutorials on Volvo's P80 platform cars -- Volvo's 1990s "bread and butter" cars -- powered by the ubiquitous and durable Volvo inline 5-cylinder engine.

1992 - 1997 850, including 850 R, 850 T-5R, 850 T-5, 850 GLT
1997 - 2000 S70, S70 AWD
1997 - 2000 V70, V70 AWD
1997 - 2000 V70-XC
1997 - 2004 C70

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abscate  
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Re: 1999 C70 quit running while driving down the road

Post by abscate »

Ah, on the bastards...

It does not have an FPR like the -1998, but it returns fuel right after the fuel filter on the rear passenger side of the car.

Alldata reports you remove the tank to service it , if needed
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Post by volvooh »

Yikes...out of my wheelhouse.

Well, I am running out of options here. I traced back wires where I could and saw no obvious signs of decay. I installed a crank sensor, but no effect. Runs for 10 minutes and dies.

Abscate- I do have good fuel pressures. I had a guage on it this morning and it died with 53lbs of pressure.

So far I have done the cam and crank sensor, cleaned the MAF, checked fuel pressure, look for obvious signs of frayed wire/insultation. I cannot help but think it is somehow heat related. When the car warms, it stops running and spark becomes weak or non-existant. I even held the two battery cables together as a last ditch attempt.

What about the engine coolant temperature sensor- I believe its in the T-stat housing on the top of the engine? I am close to either purchasing the Dice software or taking it somewhere. Considering it does not run more than a few minutes, the former may be my best option.

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Post by abscate »

Have you watched the voltage at the coil to see if it stays at battery voltage on the stall? That power comes from one of the relays on the underhood fuse box, it's worth pulling those and checking the terminals for grunge.

If that's not it..I'm beginning to think about the ECU and the grounding of the coils ......
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Post by volvooh »

Thanks- not sure how to check coil voltage without leaving one off while the car is running. Would I be checking the main 12v or on of the other wires?

I read through a thread last night regarding trouble with an ECT- similar to mine. I may try that as well.

When I started it this morning, I kept the rpm's up intially about 2000. It did keep it running a little longer. However, it did start back up and this time I kept it at 3000 rpm. Stay running a little longer. Wanted to stall but with the increased rpm it stayed running longer yet but eventually stalled out. I was able to restart several times with this method. Interestingly when it stalled out at 3000 rpm the tach stayed at 3000 mark till until I switched the key out of the running position. Not sure what that means if anything.

If its an ECU, can I marry it myself to the car with the aftermarket DICE software or is that a dealer thing. I seen various opinons on this, but the prevailing one is you can purchase a pull off from another '99 but the dealer needs to marry it to the car.

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Post by volvooh »

A breakthrough.

I started and let idle the car with the MAF disconnected. It did not stall. It ran for a good 20 minutes.

I started the car again with the MAF and it idled rough and stalled, would not start.

Removed the MAF and it started again. It stumbled mightily then leveled out. Through a CEL, PO102- the MAF sensor. It also illuminated the ETS lamp. I cleared the code and would not return. So does the ETS lamp illuminate if there is a MAF malfuntion?

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Post by abscate »

You need to watch terminal 4 on any coil, thats the 12V feed to both the coils and injectors

This is a turbo car, right? Have you checked the induction path for leaks - pull off all the fat hoses, check the intercooler for splits. The telltale for an induction leak is the car will run better with the MAF disconnected

With a DICe interface, users yagger/doublebug can marry your ECU cheaper than a dealer, without the hassle- from home

When you get crappy running, the CELs and ETS will light up without giving real guidance other than...crappy running....so your ETS and CELs arent really useful at this point.
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Post by volvooh »

Thanks. It ran good this morning sans MAF. I was super happy, pulled the car out of the garage for an extended idle, and it eventually stalled again. (sigh). I will check the fat hoses as you suggested. I am going to change the Tstat and ECT for kicks- I noticed the fan came on right away from a cold start- I saw a thread where a bad ECT was displaying similar issues to mine. Probably can't do it tonight, maybe first thing tomorrow or tomorrow evening. I think I'll take you up on your MAF though, but I'll PM.

Any clue as to why when the car stalls the tach stays at its last position (say 2000 rpm) before falling back when you turn the key off?

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Post by abscate »

Ive noticed weird fan behavior when the MAF is disconnnected - it runs on after shutdown for a few minutes. I suspect that is the ECU going to some safety protect mode or something like that.

ECT will do it - I think I have one of those two, from the 99!! Ill put it in the box.
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Post by abscate »

Link to root failure analysis on ignition switch, electrical part 1999 V70

viewtopic.php?f=1&t=80191&p=440512&hili ... re#p440512

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Empty Nester
A Captain in a Sea of Estrogen
1999-V70-T5M56 2005-V70-M56 1999-S70 VW T4 XC90-in-Red
Link to Maintenance record thread

volvooh
Posts: 370
Joined: 16 July 2009
Year and Model: '98 S70, '05&'08 V70
Location: OH
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Post by volvooh »

It looks like its a cake job doing an R and R. I might try and swap out my switch from my S70 and cross my fingers.

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