Emergency Brake needs service Topic is solved

Metallo · Post by **Metallo** » 24 Aug 2017, 19:38

Hi guys,

I took my XC70 05 for the annual motor vehicle inspection and it failed due to the emergency brake.

This is what the dealer wrote:

"Emergency brake functions, however left side sticks on a bit, recommend rear brake service and inspect/replace sticking rear emergency brake components"
"Left rear parking brake will not release properly - needs shoes, combined with service"

I have already purchased new shoes and hardware, on Saturday I will remove the rotors and verify what's going on.

This is my first time to service the handbrake and I am not sure what can be causing the left brake to not release properly.
Will I be able to see the cables that connect the handbrake to the shoes under the car?
Any area along the wiring from the handbrake to the shoes that might prevent the left shoe to release, perhaps because it needs to be greased? I do not know, is there an exchanger or something?
I am not sure what to expect and I'd appreciate your thoughts on this.

It seems strange to me that the shoes need to be replaced, unless they are separated... then obviously they would need to be replaced.

Thank you!
Alex

Post by **abscate** » 24 Aug 2017, 19:56

They fail when they aren't used regularly, as about 90% of men and 50% of women fail to use the ebrake.

Post by **tryingbe** » 25 Aug 2017, 06:35

This is what I found on my 98 S70 when I tried to figure out why ebrake doesn't work. (friction material is missing)

Metallo · Post by **Metallo** » 25 Aug 2017, 09:47

abscate wrote: ↑24 Aug 2017, 19:56 They fail when they aren't used regularly, as about 90% of men and 50% of women fail to use the ebrake.

Well, it is not used because on an automatic transmission it is basically useless.

Apart from that, any area in the line that needs to be lubed or greased?

Alex

jbeebo · Post by **jbeebo** » 25 Aug 2017, 11:03

Emergency brake is a drum-in-hat style. It has the same basic design as drum brakes used for the past 80+ years, but is even simpler because it is a purely mechanical system, no hydraulics here.

There are just a couple lubrication points. The pads on the backing plate, which the shoes will ride against. The adjuster threads and opposite side pivot pin/cup. And finally, the hub (so you can remove the rotor later). You don't want or need much lubrication, a thin coat, as it just becomes a collection point for dust and actually can accelerate the wear. The other surfaces are usually plated with a material like ZnNi or electroless Ni to prevent corrosion and provide dry lubrication, so no goop needed there.

I'd recommend popping over to youtube and watching one of the vids about drum brake service, which will show you lubrication points more clearly than my fumbled words.

I have trouble getting them adjusted properly once done, it takes some finesse and trial/error.

Post by **abscate** » 25 Aug 2017, 12:21

You should use your e-brake with both a manual and automatic transmission.

The correct order with an AT is..

Bring car to stop with foot brake
Apply parking brake
Shift transmission to P
Release foot brake.

Metallo · Post by **Metallo** » 25 Aug 2017, 18:48

abscate wrote: ↑25 Aug 2017, 12:21 You should use your e-brake with both a manual and automatic transmission.

The correct order with an AT is..

Bring car to stop with foot brake
Apply parking brake
Shift transmission to P
Release foot brake.

I know, there are many rules... likely, common sense prevails

Alex

Metallo · Post by **Metallo** » 25 Aug 2017, 18:51

jbeebo,

Thank you very much for your detailed explanation.

Tomorrow morning I will see if the shoes are still good or not and go from there.

Cheers,
Alex

Post by **abscate** » 25 Aug 2017, 19:04

I redid my 99 after 15 years of service with new shoes. They really don't wear much because m of course, they don't have friction wear like pads. Ok, I do like to do Rockford files turns in winter.

Usually the fail is the lining delaminates from the metal and crumbles.

Early P2s and P80s have a drum adjuster, later P2s only adjust at the brake lever

Georgeandkira · Post by **Georgeandkira** » 26 Aug 2017, 06:14

There is a "leverage gizmo" at the end of the cable. It equalizes the force of your pull and translates it into a push. It has a pivot point and is constructed like a tight block. It can get jammed up.
I needed to free one of mine on my '02 when I did my hand brake. I used WD-40 to free it and plain silicone for final lube.
You're going to be surprised how hard it'll be to hook the springs back into position. Grab your biggest pliers and screwdrivers and improvise levers.