How far in is the passenger axle seal supposed to be?

Post by **bmdubya1198** » 11 Sep 2017, 16:16

Just out of curiosity, because my passenger side axle seal is still leaking. I've replaced it twice. First time it wasn't seated properly, and I tried to push it so it was even, but I had to pull it out because it wouldn't move. Broke the spring, replaced it with a new seal, and now it still doesn't feel like it's seating all the way.
I used a PVC end cap like suggested somewhere on here and it worked well, but I can't get it more than just a hair past the edge of the hole. It is at least even all around, though. I just can't get myself at a good enough angle under the car to hammer it in with any more force.
It's an SKF seal (listed just as "OEM" and showing that it's SKF on the reviews page, no marking on the seal itself) from FCP Euro, and it looks identical to the original Volvo seal that I removed.

I'll add that it is possible that my axle is just slightly too small for the inner part of the seal, which is something I have read about on this site. It's a NAPA remanufactured unit.

Post by **erikv11** » 11 Sep 2017, 22:10

I never understand why people want to use a pipe setup to drive in axle seals, to me it is exactly the wrong tool. Makes the job finicky where it could be easy. I use a flat piece of wood, place it over the seal and then hammer/tap/drive until the seal is flush. Done. Others have recommended using a hockey puck, same idea.

That said, it does sound like you have it installed well enough. Flush with the housing or a hair past flush, and about the same depth all around, that should be fine. It's not backwards, right? Spring should be inside, not visible to the eye after tapping in the seal.

Post by **bmdubya1198** » 12 Sep 2017, 08:33

erikv11 wrote: ↑11 Sep 2017, 22:10 I never understand why people want to use a pipe setup to drive in axle seals, to me it is exactly the wrong tool. Makes the job finicky where it could be easy. I use a flat piece of wood, place it over the seal and then hammer/tap/drive until the seal is flush. Done. Others have recommended using a hockey puck, same idea.

That said, it does sound like you have it installed well enough. Flush with the housing or a hair past flush, and about the same depth all around, that should be fine. It's not backwards, right? Spring should be inside, not visible to the eye after tapping in the seal.

Yup, spring is on the inside, metal "ring" on the outside. It's just a hair past the edge and it is even all around.
From the looks of it, the fluid is coming from the inner part of the seal, which led me to believe the axle itself is the problem. At this point, I'll let it leak. I've pulled that axle out at least 5 times in the past couple months. When I feel like spending the money on it, I'll put a good axle in that seals right.
Thanks for the confirmation I haven't done something totally wrong twice in a row!
That is a good point, though. The reason I used the cap was to make sure it was just past the edge of the transmission. Fortunately there's nothing to interfere with the center like the end of the cam when pressing in a cam seal.

Post by **bmdubya1198** » 12 Sep 2017, 15:04

Here are a couple pictures I took this morning. I don't see anything wrong with it.
You can probably see the ATF all over the subframe behind it and on the tranny above it.

Post by **erikv11** » 14 Sep 2017, 23:55

I was curious to see the visible, shiny part on your axle where it meets the trans. I finally looked at my 95 tonight, it is on stands in the garage. My pic is lousy but you get the idea - no shiny part outside the trans case. Longshot but I am wondering if yours is seated all the way. Is the support bearing in place properly?

Post by **cn90** » 15 Sep 2017, 04:52

I just went through this saga, See the post from Oct 16, 2016 and Oct 22, 2016:
viewtopic.php?t=64252&start=30

Here are my thoughts:

1. Brand name: I believe Corteco is the OEM supplier, it looks identical to the factory seal.

2. I agree with erik that a piece of softwood (small piece of 2x4) is the way to do it.

3. Factory vs aftermarket axle. Sometimes aftermarket axles are polished and some of the metal (where it mates with the seal's lip) was removed, so the factory seal's lip may not "bite" (or seal) well.

4. Even with factory axle, after millions of revolutions, the factory seal creates 2 distinct shiny "grooves" on the factory axle.
One groove is from the real seal lip (where the garter spring is located). The 2nd groove is further outward, this groove is created by the Auxiliary Lip (aka dirt seal).
- The idea is: when you install the new seal, you want to new seal 2 lips to be in the same place as the factory seal.
- Depth perception is another issue during installation: when looking at factory seal, you have an idea where the seal sits, but this is not as accurate as a finger sweep.
- The best way is: feel the old seal depth using your finger. Let's say you feel the seal to be just 0.5 mm inward from the housing, then install the new seal exactly the same way.

Post by **bmdubya1198** » 15 Sep 2017, 08:43

Those are good tips! Interesting notes on that thread as well. I'll try to pull the seal flush sometime soon and see if that stop the leak. I'm just sick of removing that axle!
Yes, the axle is seated as far as it goes. The support bearing is lined up correctly. I also thought it was strange that you can see the shiny part outside of the transmission, but it looks like it's providing enough of a seal.

Post by **bmdubya1198** » 17 Sep 2017, 16:23

I think I set a record time for this axle seal job for myself, about 45 minutes start to finish, including the time searching for a piece of wood that fit under the car.
Seal is flush with the edge now like in all of the pictures. I was able to pull it out carefully without damaging it and hammer it flush with the block of wood.
I'll report back in a couple days if it's still leaking, in which case it's most likely the axle. At that point, I'll fix it if and when I ever get around to an M56 swap.