C30 vacuum pump sensor Topic is solved

TheOEL · Post by **TheOEL** » 18 Sep 2017, 19:12

I read an item by dan777, posted Sun Oct 30, 2011 8:00 pm, regarding replacing the vacuum pump sensor, located in the hose from the pump to the booster.

The sensor is faulty on my 2009 2.4i C30 and is leaking current giving a 0.5 amp drain on the battery, through the vacuum pump, when the car is parked. I live in New Zealand and the Volvo dealer can only supply the hose with the sensor, not just the sensor and, at $450 Canadian equivalent, is expensive. My Google searches have not come up with one.

dan777 obviously found the senor somewhere, can anybody come up with a supplier/part number etc?

Any help will be appreciated.

Post by **MadeInJapan** » 19 Sep 2017, 19:07

Are you talking about the hydraulic system or the fuel system?

Post by **MadeInJapan** » 19 Sep 2017, 20:03

The more I read your description, I'm thinking this might help you:
http://volvopartslisle.com/assembly/771 ... rake-Servo

Post by **jimmy57** » 19 Sep 2017, 20:20

I think he means the vacuum switch that turns on the electric vac pump. Un plug the motor and use two wires to give it power and ground to see if runs. I'm thinking you have a broken apart switch and a fried pump being continuously power through switch. BUT, that shouldn't be powered key off. Check to see if the current draw goes away if relay 2/32 (also known as R14) is pulled out of the box in left front.

Post by **jimmy57** » 19 Sep 2017, 20:25

Ebay switch: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Genuine-Volvo-B ... D~&vxp=mtr

Ebay pump: http://www.ebay.com/itm/2003-2004-2005- ... f2&vxp=mtr

Post by **oragex** » 19 Sep 2017, 20:34

On my S60 the pump runs about 5 times after I shut the engine off. Also usually I found the brake pedal stiff when I get in the car.
I think it's the booster diaphragm sensor - item 3 in the diagram that gets stuck - this sensor is a tiny metal rod that sits against the booster diaphragm to give it's position. The pump switch also can get stuck but sometimes it's rather the booster diaphragm sensor that causes the pump to run with the engine off.

Have you tried Ebay for a used one?

TheOEL · Post by **TheOEL** » 19 Sep 2017, 21:32

Thanks for your replies.

The pump runs, it's not the problem. When the key is out of the car 0.5 amps is being drawn by the vacuum pump so the sensor, in the hose to the pump is not opening properly. A rap with a screwdriver on the sensor and no current is drawn by the switch.

According to Pelican parts the Brake Booster Sensor is Item 30665607 for a 2009 C30.

Jimmy57 is correct, it is the vacuum switch that turns on the electric vac pump. I saw the Ebay switch, complete with hose, but as the switch is a push fit onto the hose the Pelican item should be all that is needed. However, after looking at MadeInJapan's link, the 30665607 item, #3, is not the correct part despite sending Pelican Parts a photo to identify the item.

I would think that the switch without the hose should be available somewhere?

Post by **jimmy57** » 19 Sep 2017, 22:12

Pelican may be identifying the wrong part as there is a sensor on the booster for pedal travel(booster travel). The unit you want is a switch that is integral with the booster check valve and a section of hard plastic line.

TheOEL · Post by **TheOEL** » 24 Sep 2017, 22:24

Once again, Jimmy57 is correct. Unfortunately, the items on sale in the USA won't fit a RHD vehicle as the vacuum booster for the brakes is on the right hand side of the vehicle and the hose is the wrong shape.
The situation has changed. I unplugged the vacuum switch that turns on the electric vac pump, WD40'd the contacts, plugged/unplugged it a couple of times and there is now no battery discharge when the car is shut down. This has been OK for five days now and being monitored.
The vacuum pump still runs for 2 minutes after the car is stopped, then shuts down. This seems to be a common issue, more of an annoyance than a problem. I haven't read what the cure is for this issue. Battery stays over 12.5 from then on.
Any ideas re this?

Post by **jimmy57** » 25 Sep 2017, 07:55

Try this: at time you will shut off car first depress brake pedal 50mm, wait a futher 30 seconds and then turn off ignition. DOes pump still run after engine stops?

You might have a faulty power brake booster and the switch is fine, the booster is leaking and causing too much pump run.

If the switch has come partly apart where switch connector end cap snaps on then the switch is going to cause pump to run too much, maybe 100% of the time. There is still a junkyard solution. Electric vac pumps are used on lots of Audi and VW products and a booster check valve, a free standing in line pump switch, and some rubber hose could be used to engineer a new setup. The on and off vacuum levels are similar on all those switches in line to brake booster. You might need the electrical connector from the donor vehicle as they may use a different connector but it is still a simple single pole switch using two wires. I am unsure how junkyard/used parts sellers function in NZ but a very badly damaged car with little left of use will often have little tidbits like this still useable and the owners might be willing to sell when they would not rob pieces off a rear end hit with a pristine set of systems in engine bay.