P2 clutch job..hanging the engine with Harbor Freight Part 96524

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It looks like I need two different rails to hang the engine on my P2

Harbor freight has a $70 less 20% engine bracket, but the hangars on the engine are offset by at least 30 cm

I think I will fab lumber over two hangers

Anyone with experience here!

Aerial shot.

[cuhfs]

Are you sure you would need two hangers? Put the HF tool in between the two (Fore and Aft) and the chains will balance them out evenly distributing the weight. On the V70 I used just one HF hanger. I used two however on the XC90 but that's because the engine is a V8 and huge.

[01_Nautic_V70]

Here's what I built to replace an automatic transmission in my 2001 V70 T5.

Bridge built

Engine tilted

Tilted to allow trans removal

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Yeah it looks like one can span both on an angle or I can use some anchor chain (have lots of that!) to make it up

Thanks Rick, its great not having to reinvent this stuff.

The lumber path is not so easy as you need about 6 inches of drop on a 8 inch reach thread - so you need a hook or eye with at least 14 inches of thread - on most of the shaft. Neither Lowes nor my local hardware store had that this morning. Nautic has the right stuff on his lumber - hmmmm, thats sounds too personal.

Off to HF to get that hangar tool....maybe I can get wcm to pick it up for me on his way home..

[01_Nautic_V70]

Yeah it looks like one can span both on an angle or I can use some anchor chain (have lots of that!) to make it up

Thanks Rick & Nautic , its great not having to reinvent this stuff.

The lumber path is not so easy as you need about 6 inches of drop on a 8 inch reach thread - so you need a hook or eye with at least 14 inches of thread - on most of the shaft. Neither Lowes nor my local hardware store had that this morning.

Off to HF to get that hangar tool....maybe I can get wcm to pick it up for me on his way home..

The reach is easily done by coupling an eye to a length of allthread rod. Using two individual hangers means I was able to move the front and rear of the engine independently of each other in increments of less than 1 mm.

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YEah - I couldn't find a threaded eye at Lowes, but I did think of that. That is the easy and cheaper way to get the right parameters.

Alldata/VIDA says you just lower the subframe for this - did you guys remove it completely?

Im also doing the right wheel bearing so I will have the whole strut out of the way, too

[01_Nautic_V70]

YEah - I couldn't find a threaded eye at Lowes, but I did think of that. That is the easy and cheaper way to get the right parameters.

Alldata/VIDA says you just lower the subframe for this - did you guys remove it completely?

Understood, best of luck.

Yes, I pulled the entire subframe out. I don't understand how it could be done with the subframe even partially installed. Keep in mind the auto is larger and heavier, so maybe it IS possible with a manual, but I doubt it.

[cuhfs]

I don't honestly remember 100% if I dropped the sub frame or not. sorry. I recall the manual trans being just not that big and not that heavy when compared to the automatic I pulled. Also The HF hanger comes with the chains so you wont need any other hanging parts. I also used a cheap crank up Transmission jack that was barely ok. https://www.harborfreight.com/450-lb-ca ... 39178.html. It was a bit Hard to keep it stable, but it was helpful. I figured the savings was enough to justify the cost of the tools.

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Well, there is no way the trans comes out from below without the sub frame removal. Someone sure Screwed the pooch in VIDA procedure.

Wcm stopped by today for moral support and watched me flub through disconnects, engine hanging, driveshaft, strut, and where bearing removal. Left wheel bearing is torched so that will get done on this pass too.

The Harbor Freight $70, broken box on sale for $55, 20% off for $44 worked perfectly for engine hanging when slanted to pick up both mounts