Keep it or junk it?

Mr. Detail · Post by **Mr. Detail** » 27 Sep 2017, 08:44

Hello all. I had a recent problem where one of the hoses to the auto transmission blew off and I ran the car a few miles before I had to pull off and shut her down. Just got the car back last night from a reputable transmission shop and they installed a new hose, clamps, OE O-rings and re-filled with fresh ATF and told me that it ran well.

Now after attempting to make it to work this morning the "CHECK ENGINE" light came on and the sport mode/economy mode started flashing. I took it back to the same shop and they pulled a "P0732" code which he read off as "Gear 2 - Incorrect ratio". I asked him what that might mean since he is supposed to be a transmission expert and he told me that it is possible that I burned out either the solenoid or valve body. He thinks that my problem may be electronic and not inside the actual transmission. After dropping $350 last night to get it sealed up again, is this worth saving the car? I have 171k miles on it and it runs well. It is a 1998 S70 and is probably only worth $1000 if that.

Post by **shaker_chi** » 27 Sep 2017, 09:56

The market value may only be $1,000, but the value to YOU is much more. I would pay to see if its the solenoid and stop there. So one of 2 scenarios will happen:

1. It's a pretty easy fix with the solenoid and if it goes well you have a solid vehicle that will last you at least another 50,000 miles.

2. Can't be fixed and you have a car you can part out (if you have the space and time) and once you pull everything of value out junk it for a couple hundred bucks.

Personally, I would roll the dice.

Good luck!!!!!

Post by **FLXC90** » 27 Sep 2017, 10:13

Again, market value-$1000, if you can't, or decide not to fix it it's probably worth about $300.

But the other things to look at rationally are: What will it cost to fix-
1. Solenoid
2. Valve Body
3. replace transmission.
With a ratio code I expect worn friction materials and internal components, in other words, 2nd gear is slipping and not providing the output speed the computer expects to see. sorry gotta be the Eeyore here.(I have an XC90 T-6, I'm familiar with trans failure.
If Jimmy 57 responds, he's a transmission sage compared to me.

Now balance that with what it will cost to replace the car. minus your $300.
Does it generate a car payment that you don't currently have?
Will it affect the type or cost of insurance you carry?
Taxes and registration increases?

With only 170k, your car is just a baby ( ok a teenager!) my $300 S70 has about 260 now, and Robert and Panther just broke 300k right?
So chances are, the car will last long enough to return the investment in repairs.

But, do you want it to. Do you have an emotional bond to the vehicle? Or is it just something to drive until the next something comes along? Also, is the condition of the rest of the vehicle such that it is viable to last a couple (or 10) more years?

Best of luck whichever way you go

Mr. Detail · Post by **Mr. Detail** » 27 Sep 2017, 10:28

Thanks guys for your responses thus far.
I did come from them mentality that 170k miles was nothing for this model car. I do not have any car payments at present (my wife's car or this one). I do still like the car and have now dropped over $900 in the last month for upkeep. (New radiator and now this broken trans hose fix).

I do not think I want to consider replacing the existing transmission, whether with a used one or a re-built one. I have seen a couple of used Volvo's with less miles than mine for between $1,000 and $1,500 on Craig's list recently. Still not sure what to do.

Mr. Detail · Post by **Mr. Detail** » 27 Sep 2017, 10:56

Heh guys.
I just called the Parts Dept. at my local Volvo dealer and he suggested two parts that may or may not be the cause of my latest CEL.

P/N= 3515266 (Engine Speed Sensor) $74.00
P/N= 9466049 (Gear Shifter Solenoid) $160.00

Post by **scot850** » 27 Sep 2017, 12:31

I have bought 4 P80's in the last 10 years or so and every one cost me $2-3000 in repairs to bring it mechanically up to stage 1 condition. Last 2 were bought for $650-800 CDN. The age of the cars make them a crap shoot buying used, as does any brand at that age. If you know your car is otherwise solid and well looked after fixing the trans makes sense to me. Better the devil you know and all that! Problem is the warning code is not explicit enough and you need an expert on these cars to give you direction. Fixing your own trans has advantages as you know it, but it may have bigger issues going on. Buying a sued trans with a guarantee is great but that does not include installation labor if it has a problem. If you have a good junkyard around, pulling the parts may be worth doing as they will be cheap enough to either confirm the issue or it is something else.

The debate on replace or keep is a never ending one. The cost and depreciation of a new car is horrible. If you spend less keeping an old car running each year then it is worth keeping the old one. If you need a reliable car maybe a newer one is for you, especially if you don't do your own repairs.

Neil.

Post by **jimmy57** » 27 Sep 2017, 21:00

the incorrect gear ratio code is almost always stored by the solenoid being stuck. The TCM signals it but the armature and connected spool valve don't move so the gear change doesn't occur. The TCM compares engine speed and road speed continuously and knows the correlation of those says no second gear. If it was electrically bad the code would be different. The solenoids can be replaced or removed and cleaned. Cleaning is pretty successful but a shop may want something more assured and replace it. You might try some driving with manual shifting just in case the manual valve selection shift control dislodges debris.

Post by **cn90** » 27 Sep 2017, 21:43

1+,

The exact same thing happened to me: ATF cooler line came off (previous shop installed the brackets wrong), lost most of the ATF, car barely got to Target store. Bought some ATF, fixed the cooler line correctly (there is a thin side and thick side, look carefully at the C-Clip and you will see, I forgot which side goes to the cooler but I posted info in forum).

It is now 5 years later, the trans works well.

Remember when you lose a lot of ATF, no ATF fluid is pumped into the TC, so the car does not run. There is a bit of fluid left in the Trans sump. And since the Trans does not run at all, this saves the trans from damage.

Mr. Detail · Post by **Mr. Detail** » 28 Sep 2017, 05:32

First off, a shout out and many thanks to 'shaker_chi', 'FLXC90', 'scot850', 'jimmy57' and 'cn90'. You guys just made my week!

So according to what 'jimmy57' said, is this the part I need to replace (P/N= 9466049 (Gear Shifter Solenoid) $160.00) to make that CEL stay off? or is there more than one solenoid I need to replace?

Thanks again to all. Have a blessed day.

Post by **jimmy57** » 28 Sep 2017, 05:54

No, not the gear selector solenoid, the solenoid on valve body, under the black cover on forward facing side of transmission, that controls second gear.
A good write up showing it: viewtopic.php?t=47779