Re-programming key fob

[mrbrian200]

If you are getting spark, then the key is married correctly - good news.

A P2 guru should confirm that though.

If the key isn't married to the car it wont even engage the starter and you get a message on the DIM to the effect that starting is disabled/immobilizer. Basically like having a dead battery except the lights are on.

[precopster]

Recently I worked on a 2002 V70 NA for the local Volvo guy. We replaced the CEM with a used one by having it cloned by Doublebug and then went to start it but because this car had been messed with by another repairer (and a Volvo specialist at that) they had replaced the ECM with the incorrect one.

Car would start then would die about 2 seconds later. On this MY there were no DIM warnings. Later Henry had to extract the key codes from the CEM and match them on the ECM.

On a different car (2005 XC70) that had actually lost key codes (this is as rare an occurrence as hen's teeth). The DIM showed "starting prevented" and starter wouldn't budge.

If your car doesn't show this being a 2005 model your key is fine. All you need is a good mechanic or "petrol head" to go through a no-start flow diagram and can check cam timing, compression and fuel and spark availability.

[abscate]

Mike/Mrbrian

thanks for adding those anecdotes, looks like the P2 can fail a couple of different ways. Excrement.

[chrism]

You say it gets spark and gas. But is it enough gas? Check the fuel pressure via the Schrader valve on the injector rail. If you don't have a gauge to attach use a tire pressure gauge. I can't remember exactly but I think it should show about 56 psi give or take. If that all looks good then check the compression. Given the info about a "radiator leak" makes the possibility of it having been overheated and warping the head something to give serious consideration. If the compression is low try spraying some oil in the cylinders and checking it again. I've read that if these engines sit too long that the cylinder walls and rings go dry and it won't produce adequate compression to fire up. I don't know how likely that is.

[abscate]

It's called lawn mower syndrome here, and it does happens from sitting or from an attempted restart after a short cold start

[jimmy57]

Forget key issues and do some investigation.
1/Fuel delivery check is as easy as using a pencil tire pressure gauge that you can toss and switching on ignition 2 times to allow pump to pressurize lines and then checking the schraeder valve on the fuel rail for 35 psi or more.
2/does it crank over with the normal rhythm of an engine with compression? There should be a cyclic cadence as starter labors for a compression stroke, eases, labors again, eases, etc.
3/you can check for spark and at the same time check for severe flooding by removing coil and the spark plug under it and then looking at plug for wet fuel. Place spark plug in the coil and position so the spark plug is resting on bare metal of cylinder head top. Have someone crank engine over and look for a spark.

Then report what you find for some more precise help.

[01_Nautic_V70]

It's called lawn mower syndrome here, and it does happens from sitting or from an attempted restart after a short cold start

I thought I had this last fall. Tried every recommended LMS fix (oil in the cylinders, etc.)

Eventually got the car running roughly with the fuel injector rail pulled slightly out of the intake. This let additional air get sucked in at idle. After that, I knew I had spark and gas, but air was a problem. Took the MAF apart, cleaned it all up with a can of MAF cleaner, put it together and it purred like a kitten.

Anyway, that's my experience. Check out that MAF.

[azureblue]

the "programming" is stored in ROM on the key fob, so all you need to do is to put a battery in the fob and have a fully charged battery for the car. A dead battery will not erase the programming - think about it - you don't have to go to the dealer to replace the battery in the fob - you just do it yourself and it still works. You may have to get in the car and re - pair the fob by pressing the lock buttons while seated in the car. The key does not have to be in the ignition for this.But usually, once the care is started with the freshly batteried fob, the theft prevention system will pair itself. To prove it, after the car has started, shut it off and step out of the car and shut the doors an lock it.

Oh, yeah, pay attention to battery polarity - it's easy to put the fob battery in upside down, and the fob won't work, of course....

But if this fails, you are not SOL and you don't need a dealer. Track down doublebug on this forum and he will refer you to a guy on the west coast (Sergey) who will re - pair your fob by remote, if you have an OBD2 cable and wifi access through a PC laptop (not a Mac) . You may have to buy a new fob with a ID chip, called ID48, in it. These are on ebay and they are cheap, but the hard part is removing the key from the old fob and putting that in the new fob. I had to do a little bit of filing on the ignition key to make it fit. Warning: DO NOT do this without proper instruction or in anticipation of needing it. This is because you will surely destroy the old ID chip that is in your old fob while trying to get the key out.

I am speaking from first hand experience here. I have a car I bought with a blown ECM and Saint Sergy saved my car by re - programming it remotely. In the process, the fob had to be re - coded with an ID48 chip to make the car start.

[precopster]

Azureblue the battery in the remote powers the circuit board in the key fob. That circuit board's function is to pair with the UEM in the rear vision mirror to provide lock/alarm/courtesy light operation.

The ID48 transpnder is in no way connected to that circuit board. With no battery in remote car will start no problem because ID48 pairs with the antenna ring then conveys its code to the ECM and CEM.

Anyway this is not a key problem.

[azureblue]

Azureblue the battery in the remote powers the circuit board in the key fob. That circuit board's function is to pair with the UEM in the rear vision mirror to provide lock/alarm/courtesy light operation.

The ID48 transpnder is in no way connected to that circuit board. With no battery in remote car will start no problem because ID48 pairs with the antenna ring then conveys its code to the ECM and CEM.

Anyway this is not a key problem.

what I described in the second half of my post is worst case scenario - the ID chip has gone bad. Not all Volvos use ID48 chips, either. The poster says that he has never started the car, so a bad key chip has to be considered. Yes, it is not in the fob - it is encased in the rubber plastic on the key handle. While they are two different forms of theft protection in two items, with a bad key ID, your car is a brick and a working key fob is useless. As I always say, assume the worse case when working on your car. In my case, the key ID had to be changed, then the fob matched by reprogramming via VIDA