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2001 S60 How to get Sway Bar Bushings

Help, Advice, Owners' Discussion and DIY Tutorials on Volvo's stylish, distinctive P2 platform cars sold as model years 2001-2007 (North American market year designations).

2001 - 2007 V70
2001 - 2004 V70 XC (Cross Country)
2004 - 2007 XC70 (Cross Country)
2001 - 2009 S60
2003 - 2007 S60 R
2004 - 2007 V70 R

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gregor.rieswick
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2001 S60 How to get Sway Bar Bushings

Post by gregor.rieswick »

Hi,
Our Mechanic told me buy to buy 2 SWAY BAR BUSHINGS the ones on the Frame.
Where can I get those Bushings? Is there a number for those?
For a 2001 S60 Base no turbo.
It will be okay to pay a few bucks because it is for our daughter's car.
Thank you so much for your help.

Gregor

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oragex
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Post by oragex »

First carefully measure with a caliper the thickness of the bar just near the bushing. This bar has variable thickness so it's not easy to measure it at the right place, plus not all models have the same bar. Then you can order the right bushing. I'd be curios to know how thick is the bar on your car, I have the same model only a 2003.

For installation, there are already detailed step by step procedures on google, might help your mechanic save some headache

As for the bushings be aware of inexpensive ones, I read about a guy who had to repeat the job 1 year later because the new bushing was already gone, not an easy job to start with.

Maybe give a call to your local Napa store. They may have the Moog brand which I've heard it has a chance to last long enough.

There is also Ebay. The main dealer usually sells only the complete bar ($$$)

JRL
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Post by JRL »

Oragex, what the hell are you talking about?
Volvo sway bar bushings are vulcanized to the bar and are not replaceable unless you cut them off and find an aftermarket normally styled two piece (plus the bushing) to replace the factory bar/bushing with,
Usually the fix is a new complete sway bar

He did not say END LINK bushings
Mod note. Jim passed away in early 2022, his contributions to this forum are immortal, and he is missed. RIP

2000 V70R Black, 144,000 miles Wife's R.
2007 V70 2.5T White/Oak 111,000 MILES. Polestar tune, IPD bars, rear spoiler, dark grey Thors, DWS 06, HU850, sub.

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oragex
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Post by oragex »

Exactly, I'm talking about the bushings to the subframe. Good you mentioned the mechanic will have to cut the old bushing off the bar. Aftermarket replacement bushings are obviously not vulcanized to the bar which may be a problem, because they may not keep the sway bar from moving slightly sideways which may cause knocking. I've read the polyurethane ones fro IPD need to be lubricated each year, or they wear off rather quickly.

OP, do your hear knocking over small bumps? My bushings are shot and it causes faint knocking but strangely only after driving 15-20 minutes (I guess that's when the rubber get a little softer so the bar starts hitting the subframe).

gregor.rieswick
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Post by gregor.rieswick »

OKAY I will measure the sway bar with a caliper and than I will check for the part.
And there is no knocking or rattle.
We do have a second Volvo, a 2003 V70 turbo, our son is driving this one. Last year it had a similar problem but my son brought the car to a different garage.(about 300km from here)
The mechanic took universal sway bar bushings and fitted them on.
Are there good ones on the market?

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Post by oragex »

I would like to know as well. If you find out, would be nice to share it here.

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Post by precopster »

I just bought some aftermarket polyurethane ones for my 2001 T5 which look a little "squishy", however I didn't need to replace them.

I used the same ones on a 98 V70R last year; we burned them out without removing the bar then scraped them off and spray painted the bar black again. What a job!!
PHOTO_20171106_220919-2304x1728.jpg
Only reason I wanted to replace them on my T5 was I was getting a knocking/groaning from the subframe when changing direction at low speeds. I also bought the Pro Parts subframe bushing spacers from FCP Euro and fitted them as well as new sway bar links. The bolts for the subframe were not torqued well enough because they were too easy to undo. Just a word of caution for anyone chasing groaning/creaking noises; check the subframe bolt tightness. The polyurethane spacers may have tightened up the front end but in my opinion most of the noise was from under-torqued subframe bolts.
Current cars VW Transporter 2.5TDI, 2010 XC90 D5 R Design

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Post by precopster »

Oh and they won't slip on the crossmember due to the protruding lip on the underside of the lower plate.
PHOTO_20171107_111532-1843x1382.jpg
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Post by oragex »

Precopster, I'm not sure but it's more a matter of the bar not slipping sideways inside the bushing? The original bushings were vulcanised by volvo to the bar because there was an issue with the 850 who at the beginning had separate (non vulcanised) bushings that were causing knocking after a while. Since then, Volvo is vulcanising the bushings to the bar.

I've measured my bar and it's about 24mm thick were the bushing sits on it. I would personally only try this job if replacing the bar entirely with either Volvo or Ipd bar. The Ipd bar appears to have an edge to keep the bushing from walking sideways (the picture is not necessarily the correct part for the original poster)

https://www.ipdusa.com/products/4891/10 ... fwd-models

At the very least, if replacing only the bushings, I would put some sort of shaft collars on the bar on the outer sides of the bushings, to keep it from moving sideways.

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Post by precopster »

I can see how its possible for them to slip on the sway bar however the 1998 V70R I fitted these to doesn't have an issue 18 months later as I stay in touch with the guy who purchased the car from me. I will say they were difficult to align and torque due to the bottom plate but once they were tightened that bar was not going anywhere.
Current cars VW Transporter 2.5TDI, 2010 XC90 D5 R Design

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