Volvo S60 Steering Rack Replacement

[jcgirton]

So the steering rack on my 2002 S60 needs replaced - I'm planning on doing the control arms and subframe bushings, sway bar bushings, - is there anything else that i should replace while I'm in there?

I saw someone on one of the forums said they had problems with rebuilt racks, has anyone used one from napa?

https://www.napaonline.com/en/p/NRP262515

Also when i was shopping for rebuilt racks, they asked me if it was variable speed, I'm assuming it wasn't an option for my car because Napa only has one without it?

Every forum post I see and the video show them only dropping the rear of the subframe and in the instructions to replace the subframe bushings people seem to always do it one at a time while the frame is still partially attached to the car - if i support the engine from the top, would it be easier to just completely remove the subframe and install the bushings while I have it out from under the car?

Some people make it seem like this job isn't that bad and other people make it seem like its the worst - whats that bad about it?

[oragex]

Sway bar bushings has just been discussed. Better go with the IPD complete bar for example.

Don't know feedback from Napa racks, but I would rather go with a used one from the scrapyard. These don't go bad usually, unless wrong fluid/cracked dust boot not replaced/inner tie rods installed without using the Volvo tool to secure the rack.

May as well check the lower steering coupler. If it's good, perhaps it's easier to disconnect the rack at the upper coupler.

Unless you have tons of miles, you may find the subframe bushings to still be in good condition.

There is a bracket at each of the rear subframe bolts, secured with 2 14mm bolts. Careful with these bolts, they are stretch type and may not be strong enough to tighten them back in place - result will be knocking when braking at low speed and vague steering feeling.

[jcgirton]

My car has 315,000 miles, I don't know if the sub frame bushings have ever been changed so I'm just assuming they are bad...

I'm gonna buy new bolts for those...

How will i know if the lower steering coupler is bad? it'll just have play? I seriously doubt if it has ever been replaced

Do you see any problem with taking the whole subframe out to do the bushings?

[oragex]

The lower coupler usually will seize so it won't rotate. Don't know the steps to remove the subframe, but replacing the subframe bushings it's not a small job. May be simpler/cheaper to source a used subframe with lower miles. You can check the bushings just by removing the bolt that goes through and look from underneath for cracks.

The power steering lines to the rack may also be quite rusted, may also need replaced

[precopster]

Congrats on doing over 500,000kms!!

FCP Euro sell polyurethane subframe bushing spacers made by Pro Parts. I'm usually not a fan of Pro Parts stuff however because they are made from polyurethane they are great value and take up the space in the vacant areas of the factory subframe bushings and compensate for their inherent sponginess. One caveat to fitting them is that you have lots of polyurethane grease on hand as the piddly bag that Pro Parts provide in the kit is hardly enough for one bushing let alone four of them !

I just fitted a set to my low mileage (though some would argue that 144K miles is low!! ) 2001 V70 T5 and I can feel a sharper steering response and less of that low speed wallow. These are probably the cheapest handling upgrade you'll do to your Volvo.

If you do this and are pleased with the result you won't need to worry about the arduous task of pressing out the old subframe bushings or replacing the entire subframe.

You can fabricate some subframe dropping rods as I did from high tensile threaded rod so you can safely drop the entire assembly (with the aid of stands of course!) and get to those bolts for the steering rack and for the sway bar bolts. Of course you're still going to need to support the engine from above.

[abscate]

The subframe only weights about 100 # so you can drop it with a floor jack onto wood easily, then just pull pieces of wood by hand to lower to ground. Pretty easy to pick up and carry single handed by an old guy.

[cuhfs]

Some people make it seem like this job isn't that bad and other people make it seem like its the worst - whats that bad about it?

Removal of the rack is not fun. Lots of fluid, rust and gunk falling on to your face as you work on you back for hours. Some of the bolts you can turn about a 1/16 of a turn at a time so it is slow to unbolt a few with an open end wrench or crowfoot. If you have a lift it wiill not be bad... but I assume you don't have a lift. Having done transmissions swaps, and other remove and replace jobs... I feel the steering rack was the worst to have to do mainly because you are in the middle of the car underneath on your back - no avoiding gravity causing everything to drop and drip onto you. If I were to do it again I would consider pressure washing the underneath of car before doing. Never heard anyone do that... but what ever I can do to make the job more tolerable... I would do. BUT No avoiding the fluid everywhere. I got my rack rebuilt from (Jorgansen? I think) and I did the job on my 98 V70 about 5 years ago and it is still working fine.

Dont forget the goggles.

[vtl]

Sway bar bushings has just been discussed. Better go with the IPD complete bar for example.

Wrong, stick with original part! XC90 front sway bar and V70R rear

[oragex]

Sway bar bushings has just been discussed. Better go with the IPD complete bar for example.

Wrong, stick with original part! XC90 front sway bar and V70R rear

Ideally the Volvo one is the best, but it's a few hundred $. For a car with 300K miles, I'd rather go for just bushing replacement to last 1-2 years or so

[vtl]

Had bad experience with the complete ipd bar ? (the blue one)

They are more expensive than new Volvo bars