Hi doing timing belt need cam locking tool were can i rent?

[xHeart]

This is a big job involving a lot of labor, you don't want to "penny-wise-but-pound-foolish". That is what the British people would say.

I would add, AISIN for DIYers. HEPU for shops.

Else... sing out loud Money For Nothing, and...

[hanzbe420]

well here we are a month later no leaks no nothing so it looks as if i succeeded in my first ever timing belt job. Now lets just see how long that chinese water pump last. it actually doesn't bother me (the kit) because if the water pump fails who cares ill replace it with a aisin. And all the other parts are aisin tensioner and both ina tensioner and idler pulley, so those are the same oem parts from fcp.... and as for the timing belt itself just had a number saying 252 on it, o and i installed it backwards to lol like the numbers were upside down. but that doesn't matter i heard, and there was no way i was taking it of to redo it lol. All in all i saved a lot of money doing this myself as with all jobs i ever did with my volvo so far. And as long as you fix it it keeps running

[polskamafia mjl]

Well, the who cares part would be you will care. If the pump seizes it will strip the belt and you will destroy the engine.

[FREE-PPV]

Question, I have to replace exhaust CVVT for it is loose in and out, so here is my question, if I lock pulleys down to take cam pulley bolt out, marking it at point where it won't move off of cam lobe, and as I see it has a rest point where it won't move, but at top where pulley gear marks are, it does want to move off can lobe on way or another. So will locking pulleys down to loosen cam bolt, making sure cam does not move, is this doable, or can cam move as bolt is removed even if pulley doesn't budge. Hate to have to buy cam lock tool if I don't have to.

Thanks,

[abscate]

I've got one in Albany/NYC area if you want to borrow. Pm me

[cn90]

Go to ebay and search "Volvo Cam Lock Tool", you will see the Volvo Cam Locking Tool on sales for $49; free shipping.

[jonesg]

Question, I have to replace exhaust CVVT for it is loose in and out, so here is my question, if I lock pulleys down to take cam pulley bolt out, marking it at point where it won't move off of cam lobe, and as I see it has a rest point where it won't move, but at top where pulley gear marks are, it does want to move off can lobe on way or another. So will locking pulleys down to loosen cam bolt, making sure cam does not move, is this doable, or can cam move as bolt is removed even if pulley doesn't budge. Hate to have to buy cam lock tool if I don't have to.

Thanks,

Amazon has the complete set of cam tools for very cheap money. $60 for the complete set. Cam lock, crank lock and valve cover (head) valve springs presses.

https://www.amazon.com/Crankshaft-Camsh ... 00MBQP4Y2C

[jonesg]

Oh yeh, cam sprockets are not "Keyed" to the cam shafts, they only rely on the center bold in the sprocket hub to retain position, you need the rear camshaft lock.

[j-dawg]

The cam lock tools will not help you lock the sprocket on the front of the cam. You need Sharpie or white-out marks. Mine were unreliable, because I rushed into removing the sprocket before I understood how it worked. I ended up having to set the sprocket by rotating it repeatedly in situ until it sat in the right place when rotated to the end of its travel. You evaluate this by wrapping the timing belt around the two sprockets. Takes too many hands and too much time to do comfortably.

When you remove the timing belt, the sprocket snaps back to its original positon - and before you've torqued the center bolt down, it actually rotates backwards on the cam as its own inertia overcomes friction. So I would get the belt wrapped around the sprockets, verify alignment, remove the belt (carelessly letting it snap back into its rest position), torque everything down...and find that the sprocket was out of alignment.

I found this video super useful in understanding the CVVT sprocket.

[FREE-PPV]

UPDATE:

No doubt, it would have been near impossible to break the cam pulley bolt loose without cam lock tool which I ended up buying. Thanks to all the advice on this forum, got the job done, changed the pulley, put it back into time, and low and behold it started. Only problem is I missed one of the exhaust port gaskets and it is leaking, so off comes the manifold cover and loosen back up manifold and figure out which on is not on properly. What a bummer putting these stupid individual gaskets on, wish I had none you can find a single unit gasket for the individual ones took my hours and hours to get positioned. After dropping them a hundred times, went with a solution I used decades ago on similar gasket positioning with tight tolerance, used fish line to drop into place, worked great, or so I thought, missed one. Also, leaked oil, the turbo drain pipe somehow came out just enough to push out a few quarts of oil, crazy how difficult these cars are to work on. Had trouble with one bolt lining up on exhaust manifold, so using pry bar, I think the pressure moved oil drain pipe, only thing I can figure, so be careful. Nightmare accessing the far left intake manifold bolt, and the left rear cooling pipe bolts to remove head. Bit off almost more than I could chew on this job, but feel good it started.

As a side note, so many are talking about burnt valves, and the head I bought to rebuild instead of keeping mine which wiped out almost every valve when water pump froze and through timing belt. Insane to think a no tolerance engine is manufactured for any other reason than to feed the stealers. Notched pistons cost nothing to manufacture, but no, Volvo has to subject us to to a major expense with no tolerance when belt breaks or jumps. Given most valves were bent, I chose to buy a low mileage head with burnt valve and do a complete valve job and replace the one exhaust valve. I tend to believe you have to blow out engine once a day, I have had all BMW's and have run several up to 300K miles and never had any engine issues, no oil consumption, no oil seal problems, no burnt valves and here this Volvo has been a nightmare of problems with only 170K, never again, I am dumping and go back to BMW's which are also easier to work on in my experience. I blew out engine every day on both, but when I pulled head on my Volvo, outside of bent valves, it did not have heavy carbon like so many others experienced. I don't run 90 octane on either, but changed full synthetic Mobil 1 every 5 to 6K miles, so I don't think fuel is the issue with carbon. I do also use Lucas fuel injector cleaner every 6K as well. I almost want to pull head on BMW just out of curiosity to compare. lol