98V70 na volvo - appears to have died

Post by **erikv11** » 12 Dec 2017, 08:13

If a lifter is just collapsed, running it with good oil pressure should pump it back up with oil. If it is badly stuck, it may need some detergent in the oil, like using MMO or ATF. If you have the engine open (cam covers off) then just drop in another lifter, I'd be happy to send you one. I haven't actually heard the engine but I doubt the engine noise (main problem) is due to a collapsed lifter. They make a ticking clatter from the top of the engine - is it that kind of sound? Remember the reason lifters came into the conversation was the idea that a collapsed lifter could have occurred due to low oil pressure, causing the p0301. I'd keep lifters on the list of things to watch out for sure, but like you said the first thing is to figure out what went wrong.

A popped cam seal would not cause a significant oil pressure drop.

Post by **bmdubya1198** » 12 Dec 2017, 08:35

A bad cam seal wouldn't cause a significant drop in pressure, however it will allow rapid loss of oil once the car has good oil flow in the top end.

Post by **98v70dad** » 12 Dec 2017, 11:25

erikv11 wrote: ↑12 Dec 2017, 08:13 If a lifter is just collapsed, running it with good oil pressure should pump it back up with oil. If it is badly stuck, it may need some detergent in the oil, like using MMO or ATF. If you have the engine open (cam covers off) then just drop in another lifter, I'd be happy to send you one. I haven't actually heard the engine but I doubt the engine noise (main problem) is due to a collapsed lifter. They make a ticking clatter from the top of the engine - is it that kind of sound? Remember the reason lifters came into the conversation was the idea that a collapsed lifter could have occurred due to low oil pressure, causing the p0301. I'd keep lifters on the list of things to watch out for sure, but like you said the first thing is to figure out what went wrong.

A popped cam seal would not cause a significant oil pressure drop.

I've had a ticking sound from the cam area for years - like a continuous tapping but a little harsher. I asked a mechanic about it once while it was running and he said "they all do that at this age" so I quit worrying about it.

Well, I'm off work on Friday so I'll get in and see what I can determine then. I've been looking at used engines - at the age of my 98 they go pretty cheap so its possible that doing a swap would be the cheapest/best approach. I don't necessarily want to tackle it but I could. What would be a good estimate of the number of hours it would take a professional mechanic to do it? I'm looking around to see if I can find an independent guy who is interested in doing it.

Post by **abscate** » 12 Dec 2017, 12:26

I dropped my P2 engine and did a clutch in 12, driveway job.

Yanking an engine on a cherry picker should be a lot faster.

I’m guessing you could get it done for Labour of $500-600

Post by **FLXC90** » 13 Dec 2017, 10:09

How about pulling the plug and the injector lead for number one, see if it smooths out any. Quick and free diagnostic. If it still sounds like you shelled the turbine, then your rotating assy may be the issue; if it's quieter, then it could be a lifter keeping it from breathing, a cylinder that fires with a valve that doesn't open WILL bang like a gatling gun, I bought my son a $500 Malibu as a first car, and it dropped a rocker, shook and banged like you wouldn't believe, then I deactivated the cylinder, drove it 100 miles home, fixed it and he drove it for 6 months until he could trade up.

Post by **98v70dad** » 13 Dec 2017, 14:48

FLXC90 wrote: ↑13 Dec 2017, 10:09 How about pulling the plug and the injector lead for number one, see if it smooths out any. Quick and free diagnostic. If it still sounds like you shelled the turbine, then your rotating assy may be the issue; if it's quieter, then it could be a lifter keeping it from breathing, a cylinder that fires with a valve that doesn't open WILL bang like a gatling gun, I bought my son a $500 Malibu as a first car, and it dropped a rocker, shook and banged like you wouldn't believe, then I deactivated the cylinder, drove it 100 miles home, fixed it and he drove it for 6 months until he could trade up.

Thanks. Its not a turbo. I'll try unplugging #1 on Friday. Thanks.

Post by **98v70dad** » 13 Dec 2017, 15:16

Today I jacked up the car to inspect and concluded that all of the oil leaking came from the aft side of the oil filter seal surface. I checked the oil level again and it was probably about 1/3 to 1/2 of the way between the add and full lines on the day of the incident. On the morning of the problem I panicked a bit and poured in a quart, so the level reading as of today is almost full.

How the filter could have been leaking I'm not sure. When I do an oil change I visually confirm that the seal came off with the filter (not stuck on the car). Then I wipe the seal surface with clean paper towel. Then I lubricate the seal surface with clean oil using my finger, lubricate the seal on the new filter with clean oil using my finger and then I spin on the filter. Lately I've been using Mahle filters and they are a little tough for me to put on tight since I have mild arthritus. This incident is really odd. The car had gone 6000 miles (synthetic oil) and was due an oil change 2 days after the incident. The day it happened was a very cold morning and the car is kept outside - that may have had something to do with it -like the space shuttle.

Anyhow I'm beginning to think that maybe I do just have a collapsed lifter as some have suggested. I'll find out more later in the week - stay tuned. I really does sound bad if I try to fire it up though. I'm a little afraid to do that - any thoughts appreciated.

Post by **RickHaleParker** » 13 Dec 2017, 15:49

Try FLXC90's suggestion first, pull the plug and the injector lead for #1, then fire it up. If it does not quite down. Reconnect plug and the injector lead, then try to locate source of the noise with a Mechanics Stethoscope.

Post by **scot850** » 13 Dec 2017, 15:58

+ 1 on the remove plug and try it to see what happens.

I'm a great believer in, " If humans make something, there is a good chance crap can happen with no explanation. Might just be a bad seal, or as you suggest, and old filter seal on a cold day letting go. Do you have the metal canister filters or the paper element type. On a 98 I expect the metal can type. Have you tried to see if it is loose? Like you I have arthritis in my hands/fingers, but they should not need more than wind on until you feel resistance and then a little more. Maybe the 'rubber' seal on the Mahle filter is not as good as on an OE or a bit of dirt got in and being cold it leaked. Great believer in try the easy/obvious first, then panic...!

Good Luck!

Neil.

Post by **RickHaleParker** » 13 Dec 2017, 16:08

On a 98 I expect the metal can type.

I have a 98 C70 2.3, twist on metal can oil filter.

98V70 na volvo - appears to have died

Re: 98V70 na Volvo - appears to have died