2000 V70 transmission oil level check - How?

Post by **scot850** » 15 Dec 2017, 23:41

I have been having a hell of a time tyring to get the oil level correct in my project V70 FWD with a 5-speed auto trans.

I have read how to check this on Vida, and want to confirm it should be done with the engine idling and the gearshift in park?

It also says the car has to be driven for 30 minutes highway driving, stop the car, cycle the trans through each setting in the trans for a minimum of 3 secs, then let the car idle for 2 minutes then check and the trans at +80C. What it doesn't say is check when running or not. Can anyone enlighten me please?!

Thanks,

Neil.

Post by **scot850** » 16 Dec 2017, 09:48

In Vida, Volvo instructions are way over complex for what should be a simple task. Not only that, but for those of us who live in Northern countries it is almost impossible to do. The part where it says the ambient temp has to be at least +15C for the readings to be correct. That means we can only check the oil about 6 months a year typically. They also have a graph with a sliding scale based on various transmission temperatures which do not relate to markings on the dip-stick. I don't think the problem is with the 5-speed auto trans as much as it is impossible to actually check correctly, so most trans end up under/over filled.

Stupid, stupid, stupid....!

Neil.

Post by **jimmy57** » 16 Dec 2017, 10:24

The dipstick has fluid level range on two sides. The lower range side is for 40-50 C fluid and the higher range is for 80-100C. ALWAYS with it running on level surface in park. Overfilling is possible using hot side markings when cold. Drive it as normal for 5 miles and unless you climb a STEEP hill at low speed just prior to parking it it will not be too hot to check. Then stop it and check it. I used a long cable tie to hold the lower rad hose over to the side to clear the path so the dipstick is more accessible. Don't try for top of the range, middle is fine as it allows for the times when the trans may be HOT and it will not be so high as to be churned by moving parts and froth up and come out vent tube.

Post by **scot850** » 16 Dec 2017, 11:52

As always jimmy57 your wise input is much appreciated. That makes more sense and doable by the average person.

Many thanks,

Neil.

Post by **scot850** » 16 Dec 2017, 15:54

Took the car for a wash and then took it for a 5 mile + run.

Let the car sit idling after working it through each stick position for a minimum of 3 secs, then left idling while I removed the air-intake tube to give access to the dipstick. Removed, and checked twice (while engine was still running) and it read just above minimum. I will add 100ml (200 ml between Min and Max) so it should be around mid-level as jimmy advises.

Interesting, that when I removed the air intake pipe, the air thermostat was fully closed, even though the engine was up to temp. That makes sense as the flap was fully closed when in the fridge at 5C (outside was +1C today). Otherwise car ran nicely.

Neil.

Post by **wizechatmgr** » 16 Dec 2017, 20:18

scot850 wrote: ↑16 Dec 2017, 15:54 Took the car for a wash and then took it for a 5 mile + run.

Let the car sit idling after working it through each stick position for a minimum of 3 secs, then left idling while I removed the air-intake tube to give access to the dipstick. Removed, and checked twice (while engine was still running) and it read just above minimum. I will add 100ml (200 ml between Min and Max) so it should be around mid-level as jimmy advises.

Interesting, that when I removed the air intake pipe, the air thermostat was fully closed, even though the engine was up to temp. That makes sense as the flap was fully closed when in the fridge at 5C (outside was +1C today). Otherwise car ran nicely.

Neil.

Isn't the air thermostat for the temp of air entering, not necessarily affected by the temp the engine is at?

Post by **scot850** » 16 Dec 2017, 20:52

Got to believe that the thermostat has an 'ideal' temp at which it opens to max just like a coolant one. I would have thought that the purpose of this is to make sure the charge air is warm to reduce the time at which the engine is running on cold air and having the fuel enriched. This would reduce fuel consumption on cold engine/ambient temp starts, but also over come the chance of carb/throttle body freezing in cold temps.

What I am trying to understand is the temp at which the flap should be fully open and so get an idea on how to test the correct operation.

Neil.