2000 S70 won't start 9125463 ETC ETM Sacher replacement Topic is solved

Rocambolesque · Post by **Rocambolesque** » 28 Dec 2017, 12:00

I recently bought a 2000 S70 N/A base model. When I bought it in october, it was still mild outside, around 10-15 C. The car always had the ETS light on and the only symptom at the time was that it would lightly stumble on the highway when going at a steady speed. Therefore, I ordered a Sacer contactless sensor in November. I had shipping problems and it still hasn't arrived yet...

Week after week, the temperature outside would gradually drop. The car got harder and harder to start when it was cold. It usually required a lot of cranking but it would always start. One day, it was around -10. I started the car (with difficulty) to move it in order to shovel snow in my driveway. I let the car run idle for a good 15-20 minutes (I know about lawn mower syndrome) until it reached operating temp. I parked it afterwards. The next morning, it never started.

Meanwhile, I did a bit of research and found out that the fuel pump relay #103 sometimes causes trouble starting. I changed that today and charged the battery, didn't make a difference.

If I listen carefully in the engine bay after putting the key on, I hear some buzzing sound coming from the idle control valve. Is this normal?

Can a bad ETM suddenly cause a no start issue? From what I read, its performance usually degrades gradually over time... If it's lawnmower syndrome, can you still do the pedal to the floor while cranking trick? Will that work with the electronic throttle or is it only for 850's and '98 S70's?

Rocambolesque · Post by **Rocambolesque** » 28 Dec 2017, 13:26

Further diagnosis tests:

-No codes in ECU
-Pulled all the plugs, they looked old but not really fouled. They smell of fuel, but I wouldn't say it's anything abnormal.

-No really smell of fuel in the spark plug holes
-I don't have a fuel pressure gauge, but if I put a tire gauge on the Schraeder valve on the fuel rail, it won't move. However, if I manually open the valve, I get fuel. I don't know how much fuel would be normal. It doesn't look like it's under high pressure but it's not only dripping a few drops.
-I get noise from the ETM when I put the key in the ON position.
-Also, I can't really hear the fuel pump when putting the key ON.

I'm suspecting it's the pump. It's probably the original one.

PS78 · Post by **PS78** » 28 Dec 2017, 15:38

Hello there. Welcome. You mentioned not hearing the fuel pump, mine is barely audible and may hum for a second or 2. Another possible issue might be that the check valve in your fuel pump isn't holding pressure and the fuel rapidly drains back. If you cycle your key around 5 or 6 times and it does start ,then that may be the cause. It's a fairly common problem in the my 2000.
The ETM does a self test and makes a high pitched sound as the throttle plate does a sweep. You could try cleaning the throttle plate carefully with an appropriate cleaner(I use a drop of Lucas fuel treatment on a shop towel) that might help until you can install the contactless sensor you're waiting on.
The buzzing noise in the IAC area with the ignition on I've noticed on my 2000. I'm not sure what its about. Lol
Just some ideas and thoughts. Good luck.

Rocambolesque · Post by **Rocambolesque** » 28 Dec 2017, 18:45

PS78 wrote: ↑28 Dec 2017, 15:38 Another possible issue might be that the check valve in your fuel pump isn't holding pressure and the fuel rapidly drains back. If you cycle your key around 5 or 6 times and it does start ,then that may be the cause. It's a fairly common problem in the my 2000.

Ah! This is intersting. Where is that check valve? Is it in the pump? I have a pump here, I can try replacing it tomorrow. It seems fairly easy.

Also, I went to verify the fuel pump after I last posted. If I put the back seat down, I can hear it hum for about a second. After I did that, I cranked the car and it almost started. I cranked some more and it eventually started. It idled at 500 rpm for about a minute and the revs gradually picked up. I eventually went for a drive and all seemed correct. Tomorrow I'll try to start it again. But the fuel pressure dropping quickly is a plausible theory. I always had to cycle the key a couple times to start it. I'll get some plugs tomorrow as well, it's cheap and it won't hurt it.

PS78 · Post by **PS78** » 28 Dec 2017, 19:06

The check valve is integral to the pump assembly. To my knowledge it isn't serviceable, ie: replacing the insert won't help. If you have another complete assembly that has a good check valve that would solve it, or you could install an external check valve behind the fuel filter. Borrowing a fuel pressure tester from an auto store would help out with the diagnosis. When they're bad the fuel pressure drops to 0 in about 3 or 4 seconds at the rail after you turn off your ignition. but the pump will maintain good pressure while the engine is running. It would be great to hear a swap of parts solves the issue.

Rocambolesque · Post by **Rocambolesque** » 29 Dec 2017, 14:18

I ordered a filter and the check valve. I'm doing some more reading and saw this thread:
viewtopic.php?t=38593&start=10

On the 5th post, JRL says it's only a good trick for 99-2000 AWD models. I have FWD... I understand it won't work if the check valve is installed after the regulator. Can someone explain this?

Rocambolesque · Post by **Rocambolesque** » 06 Jan 2018, 14:53

Ok so apparently the check valve trick is AWD only. I did the filter+valve assembly and it ended up being 3" too long and I had to kink the line to connect it:

That's no good. Apparently, the line arrangement on AWD models is different and the inlet line is perpendicular to the filter. Therefore, lenghtening the filter (with the CV on it) doesn't matter. I put the old filter back on. Fuel would pour out of it so I assume it is not clogged.

Also, I didn't change the pump last time as it was -20C outside and I was scared to break the fittings.

Today I turned the ignition on again and tried to check if I had fuel pressure at the rail immediately after. A tire gauge registered about 45 psi. That's good for now. I primed the pump again and I'll take a 2nd reading in a couple hours to see if it dropped. Maybe last time I was taking my reading wrong.

I also found Xemodex ETM diagnosis chart and followed that. Here's how it went:

I guess this means the ETM is still good? But the ETM light is on?

To resume what I have now:
-45 psi fuel pressure at the rail after cranking
-Fuel pump audible
-New fuel pump relay
-No codes in ECU
-ETM supposedly good according to Xemodex's chart

I ordered spark plugs last week but I haven't received them yet. Sacer sensor was re-ordered from an American vendor but it is not here yet.

Post by **scot850** » 06 Jan 2018, 15:49

Have you checked the coolant temp sensor? Somewhere her on MVS there is a chart of resistance values v's ambient temperature. It could be that the coolant sensor is not sensing the low temp and not enrichening the fuel on cold start. Do you get the same issue when the engine is warm?

Neil.

Rocambolesque · Post by **Rocambolesque** » 06 Jan 2018, 16:53

No I haven't checked that but I didn't think about that. I will try to find the chart you are talking about and will test it tomorrow. When it was warm the car would start without problems and it took longer and longer to crank the colder it got.

Post by **scot850** » 06 Jan 2018, 17:22

I think that may be something to add higher up the list of checks as that is exactly the behaviour I expect of a bad coolant temp sensor. It can be tested at the connector which is near the power steering pump. Also check the wires and connector for it falling apart or corrosion.

Neil.