New To Volvos, Need Advice on What Model To Get.

volvoaddict007 · Post by **volvoaddict007** » 19 Sep 2007, 21:20

swm wrote

anyways, thanks for the great questions to ask...as for the clutch, whats R&R'd?

Removed and Replaced is what I always thought... but now that you mention it . I suppose it could be Removed and Rebuilt. Anyway. That's what I meant...

As far as taking it to a mechanic : 3 answers ...Yes, Yes and Yes. If you are going to be taking the car to a mechanic for repairs you first want to know if there will be one in your area that can work on them. Most mechanics will tell you they can which is true but finding one that knows Volvos is better. If all you have is the dealership...ouch!

Again, that mechanic can provide you with ammo for the bargaining table.

You will also find out if the owner is willing to let you take it to one although if I was selling a car, I would go along.

If he's against taking it to a mechanic, you would have to wonder why.

We let our emotions do the buying many times. And it helps to have another person involved like a friend or spouse so they can keep you on track.

My biggest concern is the mileage on this car. Sure the motor can go 400.000 + miles with proper maintenance but you've got 13,000 other parts to think about.

Some previous owners will really do the upkeep etc. and that mileage may not haunt you too badly, but if there are multiple signs of neglect you couldn't give it to me because I have no space for a parts car.

A mechanic can spot neglect where you may miss it.

Look up the Kelly Blue Book. I'm going to guess an auto in 'good' shape with that mileage will be in the 3400 -4200. Rarety does not necessarily provide more value. In fact hang on I'll bet I can find it on line...

http://search.netscape.com/search/searc ... lue%20Book

Nope, I was way off ... about $ 5300. I'd still offer him 3k and see if he bites.

Anyway folks you all can look up your car's values there. It's kind of fun.

va007

swm · Post by **swm** » 20 Sep 2007, 09:17

thanks volvoaddict007. i have a GREAT Saab mechanic who also services Volvo, not sure if it is his fortay, but i know they service them, with my Saab, he is spot on each time and know the car like the back of his hand, so i hold for the same with the Volvo. Hmm, ill have to check the cost to do a presale once over. yeah i saw the BBV at 5300, which is why i thought 3k was kinda a lowball. Im going to see the car tomorrow, he will meet me so i can take her for a drive and see if it is worth persuing any further.

swm · Post by **swm** » 21 Sep 2007, 18:08

So the guy came to me, nice, he is only 20 minutes away from my office. Took the car for a nice ride on the highway and backroads getting it up to as high as 90Mph. The turbo is nice and quick. everything seems in order, timing belt was done at 140K, car has virtually not a ding on it, some scuffs and such, but nary a dent in sight, some hood chips, but those are expected. He has mismatched wheels though, two newer in front, two older in back nearly need replacing

. The 5 speeds shifts quick and engages properly, no odd sounds from anything, right quiet cabin too, not many creeks or cracks. leather in great shape. He really seems to have a nice set of wheels. Going to mull it over a bit before i jump though

volvoaddict007 · Post by **volvoaddict007** » 21 Sep 2007, 18:41

swm,

He may have priced it there because it was BBV. Some people are fanatical maintainers and have taken all kinds of pride in their car and it just looks and runs immaculate. Of course here is a situation where you would be more cautious and offer more, not to upset him to where he wouldn't sell the car. But just talk to him and find out why he's selling and how long it's been on the market.

If he doesn't have a reciept for a clutch replacement I would ask your mechanic how much that repair is and that is your best ammo. I might point out the evaporator issue as well if he doesn't have receipts for that. And let him know that the ENTIRE dashboard has to come off !

I'm telling you these things because he is asking top dollar for this car so that is his "anchor point". So then you can set your "anchor point" and negotiate from there.

At least do a compression check if nothing else. It's a 15-20 minute job for a qualified mechanic. Make sure the clutch isn't slipping at all. And to do that you may have to lean on it a little ( give it a little hell ). And make sure you put the car in reverse at some point and see if it goes into gear w/o grinding. That can be a sign of a clutch on it's last leg.

Make sure the air conditioner is working well. Testing this, as well as the car during the hottest part of the day is best.

Remember that anything you find wrong will help you in negotiations.

And try to contain your excitement about that 5-speed ( although I wouldn't be able to ...

)

If you have a real poker face then you can even tell him you prefer an automatic like most people and that your insurance rates are going to be higher.

Wouldn't it be funny if the seller was reading all this...

Anyway, Good Luck and tell us how you did.

va007

swm · Post by **swm** » 21 Sep 2007, 20:10

thanks volvoaddict, i sincerely appreciate your time in posting, and everyone elses posts as well, this has been a very welcoming forum, even if im not asking hard hitting questions here. Whats BBV? The AC works , it was actually a hot day here in the northeast for the season, and it was cooling quite well. He parked it head in to a spot when we met, i had to go into reverse to get out, and it engaged just perfect. Thanks for the negotiating tips too. Now if the compression happens to be low, what is that a sign of? If it turned out low, would it be a deal breaker? sign of a very expensive repair to come? As for the AC, i know thats an expensive repair from what i have read..around a grand isnt it? Im not THAT info AC for me its a luxury, but he doesnt have to know that if the work hasnt been done. He said he has ALL records, he is the second owner, i may have mentioned that, he bought it from a co worker who was selling it, and he has all that owners records too...SWEET> he is getting rid of it due to an expanding family, his wife got a minivan, and he took over her 2002 Saab, i know cause we were BSing about Saabs for a bit, its a newer car, so they are letting the Volvo go, he genuinely looked like he ws going to miss it. i think ill throw out an offer like 4k, with the expectation of meeting somewhere around 4500, im sure he expects to come down SOME....he didnt say in his ad, price was firm so,... Also it hasnt been on the market long...and he clearly indicated he wasnt in a rush to sell, so who knows, he could be holding out for asking...ahhh what to do, i think id even pay 5K but i would DEFINITLY need the compression checked...BTW, can any mechanic do that one diagnostic? im thinking if i could at least have it done more convenient to both of us, there is an auto center near where we met...hmmm..or do we need a qualified tech not just any hobo?

Thanks for the feeback.

swm · Post by **swm** » 21 Sep 2007, 20:13

oh, tips on how to tell if the clutch is slipping would be helpful...aside from the reverse gear. if it doesn't slip, am i to assume its good to go? also, he said the brakes weren't new and were holding up fine, but is that an expensive job? actually, i would like to learn to do my own...maybe now is the time. A friend of mine does his own, i could ask him for a lesson on it...

volvoaddict007 · Post by **volvoaddict007** » 21 Sep 2007, 22:39

swm,

How funny, it looks like you got another post in before I posted my last one. I guess my writing was still relevant though. Hope you didn't tell him about Matthews Volvo site other wise you might have a hard time with that poker face...

When I bought my 5-speed wagon I was looking at so many cars that I was getting to the point where I would just ask them what was the best they could do on price so I wasn't making wasted trips. And I was limited on funds.

So once I saw the car, well actually I HEARD it first ( Man that was a rush... A Volvo w/ 3" exhaust and a dynomax) I let the guy know I was excited about it. I developed a good repore because this guy was a real Volvo mechanic and had put 2 different cars together to make one so I knew I would have to call him later with some questions. I'm still planning on sending him a little dough once I get on my feet here. He was like a walking MVS.

Brakes for me are super easy because I've done so many. I don't always turn the rotors because they will last longer and it's a hassle although that is not a recommendation. You have to be careful driving the car after because the rotors can overheat because the new pads haven't 'seated' yet. If there is any evidence of warped rotors, excessive hot spotting or uneven surfaces then you must have them turned.

YOU had mentioned BBV originally ( Blue Book Value ) Haha, I see that 5-speed is already affecting you.

As far as the clutch, you need to give her a little hell out of the hole to see if it's catching properly. There should also be some travel left in the clutch arm after you get full engagement. If you don't get full engagement until your foot is all the way up with little or no freeplay then that is either a needed adjustment or it's new clutch time. Don't know if those clutches are adjustable.

I'm surprised the front leather is in good shape. He almost certainly replaced it or took really good care of it. A good sign either way.

And all the repair records from the original owner...that IS sweet. So you didn't see the clutch in there? Or the evaporator ? Then you definitely have 2 bargaining chips there. Again, ask your mechanic the price of these jobs

If you have 150 lbs on all cylinders then that is really excellent. Even 130 on all isn't that bad but if you have even 1 that's under that then you may have a motor replacement looming although it could be years away. If you had 1 that was under 120 then I would be asking for 2500 off. Replacement with a USED motor is about $3000. The car can still run well with that compression but it is a good sign that the rings or something else are near the end of there tolerance and there may not have been adequate oil changes etc. Now if you had 1 under 100 that would be a deal breaker for me unless he was willing to take like 1500 and you need to plan on a motor replacement. The 5-speed would be the only interest at that point. Motor replacements are a time consuming hassle as well.

Any mechanic should be able to do a compression check. He needs to disconnect the coil which is near the top of the drivers side strut tower.

The other way you can play it is let him know how excited you are about the car and really appreciate how well he's taken care of it but you only have $ 3762. 11 and where hoping on a wing and a prayer that he might take it. If nothing else you will find out what his bottom dollar is... He might take 3600 and let you keep some gas money. The xtra money can always come from a brother or someone that night or the next day.

But don't listen to me and wind up blowin' the deal. The 5-speed Ts are hard to come by...especially locally. I'd move quickly whatever you do...

va007

swm · Post by **swm** » 24 Sep 2007, 18:18

i talked to the seller tonight, just to gauge his stance on price, he said he was fairly firm on the price at 5300, but could sweeten the deal with a set of new snows he just bought last year. i found out it has the original clutch, and also the AC has never been serviced BUT it works...hmmmm. I dont know what to do. the mileage is a bit scary for the price at 169k, and the two items which COULD need service are original...im in a quandary. if he would just come down to 4500 i would feel better about it, but i dont know....he said he might have some wiggle room, but we'll see. any suggestions to further negotiate? Oh, also, i was hoping to avoid the cost of getting the compression checked, but i know it could be MORE cost later if i dont. agggg, what to do, its stressing me out...maybe i should just walk away.

Post by **MadeInJapan** » 24 Sep 2007, 20:28

Bottom line- he's wanting way too much, especially with the A/C never being changed, and original clutch at almost 170K miles. A compression test at the very least should be done and may be a deal breaker ever at $4500.

Post by **JRL** » 24 Sep 2007, 20:53

Gee, for about $7600 you can buy the S90 I just got with only 33,000!!!miles.
(Look in the 960 forum, there's a link to the ad)