Head gasket job. Won't start

Post by **rspi** » 07 Jan 2018, 15:47

Kazbear wrote: ↑07 Jan 2018, 13:15 Hmmm. No. I don't remember that step. Just to keep them in oil. Hydraulic lifters.

Post a picture of the head.

Kazbear · Post by **Kazbear** » 07 Jan 2018, 15:58

Ok. I see now. Looks like solid lifters according to that video.

Post by **rspi** » 07 Jan 2018, 17:50

If those lifters were mixed up it probably doesn't have enough compression to run. I'd get a replacement head.

Kazbear · Post by **Kazbear** » 08 Jan 2018, 10:18

Yikes!
Ok. Thank you for that. Again, I needed more research... Will look into this. I'm assuming you can't just get new lifters?

When revisiting the timing, I attempted to turn the crank pulley, but it did not budge. So I removed the cam cover and pulled out the cams. (Good thing, as i now see the rear intake cam seal was not there. Fell off during my initial install...) Going to try this again.

I turned the crank pulley to line up the marks. Do I need to go 90 degrees past and then pull it back. Not sure if things are different without the cams attached.

Post by **FLXC90** » 08 Jan 2018, 16:37

No, if the cams are out you set the crank mark and leave it there. That completes that step. (continue to review video(s) no shame, it ensures getting it right. )

Once cams are in, align by marks or tool. Install belt, then when you HAND-rotate the engine two turns clockwise to verify belt hasn't slipped, you will do the quarter turn for the VVT hub.

keep asking as you need, this is a safe place, we want you to succeed.

However, what Rspi meant about the lifters, is that they are potentially all different thicknesses. If mixed, some valves will not open far enough, and some will open farther than they should. You may need to pull the head back off, and match lifters with their appropriate valves. It's a modified version of adjusting valve clearance, unfortunately, because you can't easily check clearances and make adjustments without disassembling the head, it is not a normal service procedure.

Post by **FLXC90** » 08 Jan 2018, 16:46

Also, rear cam seals are easy enough to install after the head is together, if need be.

QUARKS40 · Post by **QUARKS40** » 08 Jan 2018, 18:21

abscate wrote: ↑07 Jan 2018, 14:38 Ah. You have to rotate the cam past the marks by 90 degrees then come back to the marks with VVT. I’ll point you to the thread.

My 2 cents....
I know you wanted to say that this is done to unload the VVT cam gear.
After checking the timing, While you still have the spark plugs out, rotate the engine by hand through a full 360 degrees just to ensure there is nothing interfering.
IMHO, when I read a whining sound, to me that sounded like the starter was turning, but the solenoid wasn't throwing the gear out onto the flywheel (Engaging the flywheel).
I applaud you for doing this. I takes courage to do something this involved never having done it before.

Post by **rspi** » 08 Jan 2018, 18:24

The rear intake seal should be that plug.

Post by **rspi** » 08 Jan 2018, 18:26

Post by **abscate** » 09 Jan 2018, 03:33

I applaud you for doing this. I takes courage to do something this involved never having done it before.

As do I. You are indeed Samurai. We will get this thing running, all together

Head gasket job. Won't start

Re: Head gasket job. Won't start