Very low use/low milage 2007 XC70, need upkeep pointers

[Durenol]

We have a 2007 XC70 (AWD 5cyl turbo) that pretty much lives in a garage and is only driven a few short trips on weekends. It has 45k miles on it and the majority of that was early in it's life. I know lot of stuff on this car is going to start failing due to pure calendar age rather than wear, so I'd like to keep on top of this and create a list of things to watch for.

I have a few specific questions:

1) The tires on this car are showing signs of age related deterioration (despite having less than 12k on them). Last time we had trouble finding cheap replacements for the standard 215/65r16 size. Are there other compatible "sister sizes" that might be a better option?

2) How often do we need to flush and replace things like break fluid, power steering fluid, transmission fluid, and engine coolant? I've heard all sorts of differing opinions but it's unclear how many of them apply to a car with this driving pattern. (The transmission fluid in particular seems to have a lot of horror stories behind it).

3) When does the timing belt need to be replaced? The manual says 120k, some people say 10 years, others say you need to check the engine code and it's upwards of 15 years.

4) The manual says to replace the spark plugs at 60k, do I need to replace them sooner due to calendar age?

5) The service manual talks about visual inspection of "the bevel gear". I have no idea what this is or where it's located, and searching on the web gives conflicting answers.

6) What is the PCV? This is something that needs to be cleaned on a regular basis or the engine basically blows up ...?

7) Which of these sorts of services can safely be performed by a random shop and which need a dealer? (Again, I've heard varying horror stories about bevel gears, belts, and transmission fluid).


Other than that, are there any other things to watch out for?

[oragex]

2. for the fluids I'd say every 5 years if the correct and best fluids are used for brakes, coolant and power steering (which takes a specific Pentosin fluid). For the transmission I'd refresh it with 5-6 liters from the main dealer - you have original Volvo fluid and I would not replace it this early with some aftermarket Toyota or Mobil 3309 - in my opinion the Volvo fluid will give a better transmission operation.

3. belt would be at about 10 years but you have low miles. I have a different opinion on this, I would delay it for another 2 years if you are selling it, but if you keep the car for another 5+ years, it's better to do the belt now with Volvo parts without replacing the water pump.

4. good to replace the plugs as they tend to seize into the engine if left for many years

5. replace the fluids at rear differential of the AWD, it's the best best thing to do. Inspect and clean the filter on the pump (a Volvo mechanic knows about it). You have the upgraded AWD which should be more durable. If he could lubricate the angle gear it would be terrific, the original lubrication washes off after those years, but it's v hard to access.

6. the PCV needs checked, and may do with a replacement if you keep the car for another 5 years.

No 'no name' shops for this car, the mechanic needs to 'know' these cars (most will tell you so but you know how mechanics talk). If you can find a Volvo tech that works from his home it's the best, check local.google.com for european garages and local classifieds sites

[Durenol]

- How much does a belt replacement cost typically?

- I've seen people mention the water pump in the same sentence as the belts before, are you supposed to replace both at the same time?

- Would simply taking the sparkplugs out, wiping them off, and putting them back in alleviate any seizing issues?

- Can I get more info on EXACTLY where the bevel/angle gear is? Or, rather, is this something you can even see on a lift in the first place or do you need to take a bunch of stuff apart first?

[oragex]

The water pump is atypical on this engine. Unlike most other cars brands, even Volvo dealers don't replace it until 200K miles.

The belt kit runs for about $150 at Volvo. For the job, a knowledgeable garage can do it in less than 1 hour without removing the crank pulley. In fact, most people here on forums won't need more than 1h if they've already done it in the past. Again, if a garage will quote 4h job, it means they are not experienced on these engines

Yes for the plugs, it's a good idea as these last much longer than 40K miles.

For the angle gear I suggest typing on Google 'angle gear volvo oil change' and look for discussions in forums
There are topics with pictures about it, with people indicating all details, fluid types, etc. May as well click on the 'images' button on the google results page. This part was very problematic up to 2006 models, your 2007 model is supposed to have an updated component that is more durable.

[DrDan]

I would suggest to replace the brake fluid more often, every two years if you don't live in a very arid climate. The fluid deteriorates with age because it's very hygroscopic and thus collects water from the atmosphere. This is a safety concern because if you brake hard with bad (high on water) fluid, the fluid gets hot and the water can evaporate and form bubbles. If you then have to brake again with bubbly fluid, the bubbles will compress giving you squishy ineffective brakes unless you "pump" the pedal. The fluid itself is cheap and quickly replaced by any competent mechanic.

Similar for the tires. I would get good tires, because in the end the tires are what's keeping you on the street. Good traction is essential for braking and cornering and once the tires exhibit age-related deterioration, they are probably far beyond their peak performance. Good tires make a big difference especially on wet roads, also, they make for a smooth, silent ride. Just compare the flexibility of fresh good tires with the cracky old ones when you have them replaced and you will get a feeling for why that is so. I buy tires online to get a good price and have them replaced very economically by a local shop (they even come to my place to do it which I appreciate a lot).

[Durenol]

The belt kit runs for about $150 at Volvo. For the job, a knowledgeable garage can do it in less than 1 hour

Most shops around here charge like $80-90/h for labor, which would put this at like $250. Are you SURE on this price? That seems extremely low and not in line with other cars in my experience.

[Durenol]

Similar for the tires. I would get good tires,

Given that this car is hardly driven, and that tires in this size look to run $150 each (plus mounting), we're looking to cut costs where it's practical.

[abscate]

If you drive low speed around town, run the tires as is if the tread is good. There is a huge fear-factor runup about tires lasting 5 years, when in fact tire mfg say up to 10. Fears of blowouts and horrible crashes scare us, but we have all had flats and yet we stay alive.

If you are a heavy foot driver running it at 80 on NJ turnpikes, replace them all immediately.

One of my cars runs me at 40 mph to the airport 6 times a month, and its tires are 10 years old with good tread.

Brake fluid every 2 years. Replace the bleeder valves when you do this and they won't get stuck

Coolant every 30000 miles or 3 years. If you do this, run the water pump 200k miles.

PS fluid every 50000 miles

Your timing belt is really good for 150k miles. There is a special VIN where Volvo Warrantys the belts for 150k/15 years. They use the same components as they do in the other cars where they say the interval is 120miles/12 years. I guess that VIN has magic pixie dust. It usually isnt the belt that fails, its the pulleys. Learn how to take the cover off and listen to them for wear. This is one place where if you like the car, its worth the $500 to have the TB/idler/tensioner job done for peace of mind. I did mine at 137k 15 years on the 1999, and 100k/11 years on the 2005

Use Bosch copper cheap plugs, replace in 30k intervals or 3 years to keep from seizing.

Im in BOS area frequently and would be happy to pop in and talk shop - PM me here. Ive done a number of IRL meetings and am not in the post office wall if you are comfortable with that.

[Durenol]

The tread on the tires is fine but they're showing lots of micro cracks in the sidewall, roughly like these pics:
http://stetsonautomotive.com/wp-content ... s007_s.jpg
http://www.trailerlife.com/wp-content/u ... son-20.jpg
This looks like age-related dry rot to me, and not a good sign.

As for the belt, this car will never hit 150k. Whatever the belt is made out of will deteriorate due to age LONG before it does due to wear, that's what we're worried about.

I've heard these cars tend to eat certain parts, and have a lot of transmission issues later in life. Besides what I listed, are there other major things that need to be watched out for?

[abscate]

The 2007 transmissions are pretty good - if you refresh 3 liters of ATF each year with an oil change, you should be fine. Best way is to run the old out of the radiator line, then add to make up. Make sure you back up the radiator line clip with a zip tie or other clamp. See threads.

You can probably go 2 years between oil changes with no problems - are you getting it up to full operation temperature once a week or once a month?

Use full synthetic oil only with a turbo

I have a low mile turbo Beetle, 50k that runs about 3-5 k per year. I change oil every other year, run it hot, and it is still on original timing belt

I do live in a relatively cool ozone free place but I inspect the belt each year. Its now 15 years old. Im obviously a risk taker but Fora are full of people who will chest thump and spend your money with fear-uncertainly-doubt posts.

Shop rate about here for a belt job is $400 with parts, probably $500-600 in Boston