'94 850 Wagon - Mechanic Quote

[scot850]

These old Volvos I have found the cheaper you buy them the more work they need so you end up at the same price as if you bought a good one in the first place. The real problem is that even the 'good' car will need work. In my opinion they will need anything from $2000 and up to bring back to a good condition unless you are really lucky.

I agree on doing the simple stuff and especially the PCV and then try a stop leak of some sort. I used Blue Devil on one car and it stopped leaking and hasn't leaked according to my brother since we did that 18 months ago.

ECT is the first thing and look at the condition of the plug at the connector at the power steering pump. They tend to crumble with age and give poor connections.

Neil.

[erikv11]

Yep.

Do the PCV, the ignition stuff, ECT sensor, and the thermostat. All in, maybe $300 in parts.

No point in doing the seals until you have cleared the PCV as that is what blows them out. Clean the engine block PCV drain path too - see threads.

Also agree, do this! And then cam seals when you have time, even the fronts are not very hard.

And then put a bottle of ATP AT-205 in the crankcase, its the only genie in a bottle I will ever recommend but its great stuff, has saved several leaky RMS and valve stem seals in these cars. https://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/atp ... 11071183-p?

[abscate]

The $1500 P80 worked when they were 10 years old, but now they are 20 years old.

There are a bunch of chemicals that I can concoct that will stop a RMS leak for about a month, at which point it will gush again, and cover up that $1000 repair for sale.

Thats the risk of the new-to-you car you take, and one that is getting risker each year passing.

[RickHaleParker]

If he get right on the PVC system the leaking should slow way down. Pressure in the crankcase is accelerating the leakage.

[abscate]

If he get right on the PVC system the leaking should slow way down. Pressure in the crankcase is accelerating the leakage.

Right - as long as he also makes sure the block passage is open and clear.

[RickHaleParker]

Right - as long as he also makes sure the block passage is open and clear.

If the mechanic is correct, replace the oil trap. The traps are suppose to be replaced every 100,000 miles. Too many people don't know to replace them.

[ir637113]

Right - as long as he also makes sure the block passage is open and clear.

If the mechanic is correct, replace the oil trap. The traps are suppose to be replaced every 100,000 miles. Too many people don't know to replace them.

I've pulled my intake off probably four times in the past two years. I can change it.

The issue is that I called back, and according to them, all the seals are leaking. I could probably do the cam seals myself, but there's no chance in hell on me doing the RMS. And like I was saying, in perfect working order, they're going about $2000 around me, so putting $300 in home repairs followed by $1000 on the RMS is getting a little close to the point of no return for me. If it wasn't a 25 year old car, I'd 100% just do it. Getting a quote on an engine swap right now just to see, because it's probably cheaper than the work they want.

I'm okay having to put some money into a car. My problem is that my budget for a car at any point basically means I'm going to work on it while in owning it. I'd love a $5k that doesn't need work. Unfortunately, I don't have $5k. I've got like $1500. Which is fine. I can find them in the $1500 range needing maybe $200 in parts and a day of work. And my paydays are gonna be looking different this year, so I can feasibly go through and replace things before they're going bad.

I'm serious - you can get a decent Volvo in Ohio for $2000 that doesn't need but a couple hundred bucks put in it. Idk what y'all are talking about saying you need to drop $4k+ to get one that's decent. I don't think I've spent that altogether on either 850 I've owned.

Then again, I'm way too poor to be picky

[abscate]

Check the crankcase pressure, then, if its ok, then try the ATP to see if the RMS can be fixed cheap. Thats a $15 try.

[wizechatmgr]

ATP is wonderful stuff provided you don't have a physical tear in the seals. It can do wonders for hardened seals...

For $15, you have nothing to lose.

[theWIFES_S70]

For example,

Our car was listed at $1200. We able to negotiate $850. The only stick 5-speed, MT for sale I'd seen in over six months around here.

Plus...

- Front end was completely shot (struts, control arms, inner, outer tie rods, subframe bushings, sway end links). ($650)
- All fluids ($75)
- Shocks, mounts ($75, Gabriel all the way baby!!!)
- Brakes all around were shot. ($250)
- Tune up (plugs, wires, rotors). ($250)
- PCV (non-URO style!) ($200)
- Tires (all bald!) ($400)
-Timing Belt ($150)

Approximately: too damn much...

If you know how to do similar work for $250, please share your secret!!