Control Arm Bushing

dnwong · Post by **dnwong** » 29 Jan 2018, 01:02

Trying to determine if these bushings are bad. Would I notice any handling improvement replacing these. Try to make the XC90 more responsive. Is there other components that I should look at? Car has 122K miles.

Post by **oragex** » 29 Jan 2018, 07:47

The second picture doesn't help, and it's the one I would want to see, the rear bushing. If you can jack the wheel and snap a shot of the rubber part from above the bushing.

Just by the condition of the front bushing, it has indeed the wear of it's 120K miles. It is still far from 'failing', the rubber is still strongly attached but had certainly got much softer than what was originally designed to be. Based on this front bushing, the rear one may have already developed a crack (sometimes it won't show on the surface) and won't last more than another 20K miles or so.

But the best advice I can give about this is to use only Volvo original control arms, do not touch Meyle, Delphi, ProParts Sweden or even Ipd HD.

You have this kit (double check for compatibility), the ball joints also may have some wear so it's good to replace them now so you have no worries for the next 5 years

https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/volvo- ... xc90caktp4

You may save a little with Lemforder ball joints

https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/volvo- ... -31201485l
https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/volvo- ... xc90caktp2

I remember several XC90 owners had big issues with the front axles not moving out of the wheel hub, as these may seize. Before starting the job and ordering the parts, I would ask a garage to remove the center axle bolt (sits in the center of the wheel), and check if he can push back the axles. If these don't move, just removing them it may be a big, big job (and possible extra parts needed).

dnwong · Post by **dnwong** » 29 Jan 2018, 11:04

Wow, those are pricey control arms. Anyone with success just pressing out the bushing and put new ones it using a rented tool from the auto parts stores?

Post by **SuperHerman** » 29 Jan 2018, 11:36

Agree the bushings are tired, but not at the point of failure. You may see some improvement if you change them.

Yes I have replaced them - nothing difficult if you have a press. It will take more time. The ball joint if I recall is the item I could never remove so if yours are going bad go with the arm.

Post by **mrbrian200** » 29 Jan 2018, 11:45

The rear bush is probably OK too. Though we can't see the actual bush in your picture, when it fails the LCA will float down when you jack the car up instead of acting like it's on a ball joint pivot point. The vertical position is being maintained in your picture so it's probably ok, at least for now. If you want to tighten up the steering response on these put on performance class/stiff sidewall tires (you'll be trading ride quality for responsiveness) and install subframe bushing inserts, and possibly, have an alignment shop tweak the front end toe setting to accomplish just a little bit of oversteer. Everything you do will affect something else with respect to noise/vibration/ride quality. These were designed as performance luxury class, not sport. So the emphasis was on smooth/stable ride quality, not super tight sports car like steering response.

Post by **oragex** » 29 Jan 2018, 18:48

Yours are steel control arms, it's perhaps harder to press new bushings. You would need a 10 ton (20 ton better) press plus special adapters. You may check see if the bushings are sold by Lemforder but be aware: I put XC90 Lemforder rear bushings on my S60 and it failed in one year so I suspect those were fake Lemforder bushings. In other words, the bushing market may be risky.

Post by **matthew1** » 29 Jan 2018, 19:05

I tried pressing bushings in on my P2 arms and couldn’t manage it with a bench vise, after heating the arms. I took the new bushings and arms in to a Volvo indie and paid them $10 or $20 to do it.

Post by **SuperHerman** » 29 Jan 2018, 19:20

I used a 12 ton standing press. It worked without too much of a fight. Taking to them to a shop with the equipment is not a bad idea if you don't have a press.

dnwong · Post by **dnwong** » 11 Dec 2021, 18:03

Almost 4 years later (2 years of limited use due to covid). Here are the LCA bushings. I was able to get better pics of the rear bushing. Do that looks shot? 145K. The car feels very floaty with some delayed steering response. When I wiggle the steering wheel while driving at 40mph, no much happens... (Maybe that is what is supposed to do, my other cars are BMW and porsches).

Post by **MoVolvos** » 11 Dec 2021, 21:16

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These work on most P2 chassis but are what is called for on your XC. I recommend replacing the worn bushings.

These are a must!
IPD Poly Front Subframe Bushing Insert Kit
https://www.ipdusa.com/products/8969/IP ... 923-120168

I used washers on the bolt top and bottom so the rubber doesn’t move or flex. Getting rid of the car soon or else would buy these.
https://www.ipdusa.com/products/21992/S ... Ipd-140299

P2 XC90 Control Arm Bushing
https://www.ipdusa.com/products/13457/P ... 040-235227

Control Arm Bushing XC90
https://www.ipdusa.com/products/13412/C ... 881-235182

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This applies to any bushing that could use this method. The goop you see is high temp silicone apply in hope of saving the bushing. Wouldn't dry or else would have worked.

Drill out the rubber and use a copying or hack saw to carefully cut the outer ring. Cut towards the inner meaty part of the control arm in case you scratch it. The kerf will release the tension of the bushing ring then just use a large screw driver or pry bar to punch it out. Need to remove the hack saw blade and insert into hole then reattach. Again, careful not to cut the control arm.

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