I think the official Volvo position on the flame trap is to remove and discard. Should be some threads confirming this here.RickHaleParker wrote: ↑21 Feb 2018, 22:29 Woah woah woah! .... '94 850 NA have a Flame trap that needs periodic cleaning or replacement. It located on the side of the intake hose, the larger hose runs to the oil trap. Check the Flame Trap and see if it clogged up. New ones are about $5.00.
Leaky Oil Cap
- abscate
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Re: Leaky Oil Cap
Empty Nester
A Captain in a Sea of Estrogen
1999-V70-T5M56 2005-V70-M56 1999-S70 VW T4 XC90-in-Red
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A Captain in a Sea of Estrogen
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Link to Maintenance record thread
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Make some friends here, help people out when you can, and good OEM volvo parts can fall to you like manna from the heavens...when I do PM on SWMBO parts Im often discarding parts with good life left in them - I give them away.ir637113 wrote: ↑21 Feb 2018, 20:04I've got a blue box j hose in my garage I pulled off a car in a junkyard. Looks brand new. If nothing else, I'll check on other aftermarket brands, because I definitely agree with the post after yours saying we need to keep in mind and log any aftermarket parts that are solid quality.abscate wrote: ↑20 Feb 2018, 15:49(E) All of the above.RickHaleParker wrote: ↑20 Feb 2018, 15:43 "Take good notes on the job so you can do it again quickly in 6 months from now."
Known problems with the ÜRO PCV kit or a vote of no confidence for the ÜRO brand name?
WE have a couple of documented threads on the URO rubber PCV hoses falling apart in 6 months The breather box is probably ok, and any hose you can get to easily to replace probably could be argued to be decent value, but anything with significant labour to get on/off should be blue box.
Cost is always a consideration for me - I make what most 24 year old professionals make (read as "not a lot"), have two kids, and I'm the only income right now. Even if it means I'm doing it multiple times, sometimes I'm stuck with the $80 option (and sometimes that's not even doable) instead of the $160 option, even if I KNOW the $80 option end up costing me the same or more in the long run (that's just kinda the problem with being broke. But that's a convo for a much different forum)
I've seen a couple other aftermarket brands that are still cheaper than the Genuine parts (seriously, $160 for an OE kit?). Any suggestions on anything solid that isn't so damn expensive?
There are a lot of hacks and tricks on these Fora - and remember, this is from the guy who started this thread..
viewtopic.php?f=1&t=75054&hilit=cheapskate
Empty Nester
A Captain in a Sea of Estrogen
1999-V70-T5M56 2005-V70-M56 1999-S70 VW T4 XC90-in-Red
Link to Maintenance record thread
A Captain in a Sea of Estrogen
1999-V70-T5M56 2005-V70-M56 1999-S70 VW T4 XC90-in-Red
Link to Maintenance record thread
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ir637113
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I'm planning on replacing/cleaning/getting rid of this part anyway. But the more I think about it, the more I remember that there was crud in those ports I didn't get out, so I'm gonna have to get back down there. My thought is either I didn't clean them well enough, or I didn't get it out and it swept out and clogged the new trap.RickHaleParker wrote: ↑21 Feb 2018, 22:29 Woah woah woah! .... '94 850 NA have a Flame trap that needs periodic cleaning or replacement. It located on the side of the intake hose, the larger hose runs to the oil trap. Check the Flame Trap and see if it clogged up. New ones are about $5.00.
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ir637113
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Totally get it lol. I just don't have the hours in the day to devote to it right now. I'd absolutely love to use genuine or OEM. But right now the only way I could do that was if I just replaced the j hose with the one that's on there. Although I guess it's possible considering it's only two months old...abscate wrote: ↑22 Feb 2018, 06:20Make some friends here, help people out when you can, and good OEM Volvo parts can fall to you like manna from the heavens...when I do PM on SWMBO parts Im often discarding parts with good life left in them - I give them away.ir637113 wrote: ↑21 Feb 2018, 20:04I've got a blue box j hose in my garage I pulled off a car in a junkyard. Looks brand new. If nothing else, I'll check on other aftermarket brands, because I definitely agree with the post after yours saying we need to keep in mind and log any aftermarket parts that are solid quality.abscate wrote: ↑20 Feb 2018, 15:49
(E) All of the above.
WE have a couple of documented threads on the URO rubber PCV hoses falling apart in 6 months The breather box is probably ok, and any hose you can get to easily to replace probably could be argued to be decent value, but anything with significant labour to get on/off should be blue box.
Cost is always a consideration for me - I make what most 24 year old professionals make (read as "not a lot"), have two kids, and I'm the only income right now. Even if it means I'm doing it multiple times, sometimes I'm stuck with the $80 option (and sometimes that's not even doable) instead of the $160 option, even if I KNOW the $80 option end up costing me the same or more in the long run (that's just kinda the problem with being broke. But that's a convo for a much different forum)
I've seen a couple other aftermarket brands that are still cheaper than the Genuine parts (seriously, $160 for an OE kit?). Any suggestions on anything solid that isn't so damn expensive?
There are a lot of hacks and tricks on these Fora - and remember, this is from the guy who started this thread..
viewtopic.php?f=1&t=75054&hilit=cheapskate
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Either way, I priced everything out, and avoiding URO makes genuine on FCP the cheapest for the hard-to-reach parts (minus an MTC oil trap on Amazon, so I'll test my luck there. But I've heard good reviews on MTC). The rest of the parts are easy enough to get to or not as important to have genuine imo (flame trap, gaskets, etc.). Pulled me from the $150 kit on FCP to $100 even (pro-tip: if you want aftermarket parts, CarID is phenomenal). The J hose is my only actual questionable item right now. Looking at a Gates ($10 compared to $30, but mixed reviews in Gates parts)
I'm wondering... If my genuine hose is only four months old, could I just pull it and reuse it, or should I just go ahead and replace it?
- abscate
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Volvo hoses last 10-20 years - no need to replace a 4 month old one, Dont damage it removing it, of course.
Empty Nester
A Captain in a Sea of Estrogen
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scot850
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+1 with what abscate says. Unless it has been damaged/split somehow, it should be good for years, just don't damage it!
Good luck!. I'm wish i knew where they are, but I am sure i have new flame traps and a housing somewhere from an 850. Saying that, the common thread is to dump the flame trap especially on older high mileage cars as they tend to block up.
Neil.
Good luck!. I'm wish i knew where they are, but I am sure i have new flame traps and a housing somewhere from an 850. Saying that, the common thread is to dump the flame trap especially on older high mileage cars as they tend to block up.
Neil.
2006 V70 2.5T AWD Polestar tune
2000 V70 R - still being an endless PITA
2006 XC70 - Our son now has this and still parked in our garage
2003 Toyota 4Runner V8 Limited
2015 Kia Sportage EX-L - Sold
1993 850 GLT -Sold
1998 V70 XC - Sold
1997 Volvo 850 SE NA - Went to niece in California - Sold
2000 V70 SE NA - Sold
2000 V70 R - still being an endless PITA
2006 XC70 - Our son now has this and still parked in our garage
2003 Toyota 4Runner V8 Limited
2015 Kia Sportage EX-L - Sold
1993 850 GLT -Sold
1998 V70 XC - Sold
1997 Volvo 850 SE NA - Went to niece in California - Sold
2000 V70 SE NA - Sold
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ir637113
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Yeah.... This car is just so fucked tbh. I'm currently sitting on the side of the highway lol.
Driving, decided to pass a car on the highway. Started losing power. Noticed my foot was on the floor and I was losing speed. Cue pulling over, oil light coming on, then car stalling. Minus the oil (clogged pcv explains that), this is what it did last time and was the ECT sensor. But I did that less than a month ago.
BOLO for yet another "wtf, my car doesn't work" post from me.
Driving, decided to pass a car on the highway. Started losing power. Noticed my foot was on the floor and I was losing speed. Cue pulling over, oil light coming on, then car stalling. Minus the oil (clogged pcv explains that), this is what it did last time and was the ECT sensor. But I did that less than a month ago.
BOLO for yet another "wtf, my car doesn't work" post from me.
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ir637113
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We'll see what it does once the block is cold. That'll tell me if it's the sensor. I just hope to God I didn't kill the engine. I spent $1000 on this, it's not worth a new engine to me (ntm that I can replace the whole car for $1000-$1500)
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ir637113
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Alright... Not starting at all, and every drop of oil I'm putting in it if flying out of somewhere on the passenger side when I try to crank it.
My thinking is hose popped loose (if there's a hose oil is going through?) Or I completely obliterated a seal or two)
My thinking is hose popped loose (if there's a hose oil is going through?) Or I completely obliterated a seal or two)
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