Major toe-out, steering wheel upside down

Gtin · Post by **Gtin** » 17 Feb 2018, 01:33

Well the rack comes with inner tie rod ends, and I ordered new outers from rock auto and have already tested them to make sure they thread on, tomorrow morning I plan to start taking the old one out, planning to have the new one in by the end of the day if all goes well

Gtin · Post by **Gtin** » 18 Feb 2018, 12:51

Didn't get as much time to work on it yesterday as I had hoped. I got the old one out and wow it is worn out, I'm somewhat angry at whoever the last person was to have some of this stuff apart, a lot of stuff was way too easy to take off, it was like somebody tried to replace the rack and then decided it was too big of a job and didn't bother to tighten the bolts when they put it back together.

If anybody is watching this thinking about doing the job themselves do yourself a favor and watch the robertDIY video on it, read about it, and then don't skip steps, I thought I could pull it off without disconnecting the sway bar links or control arms, I was wrong, cost me extra time in the end. Also if you don't have access to a engine hoist or support to the top I found that a harbor frieght transmission jack with the arms removed but the square plate left on works great at supporting the engine from below without worrying about denting the oil pan.

New one goes in today

Gtin · Post by **Gtin** » 18 Feb 2018, 19:00

Side note, unless you have access to a hydraulic press or maybe a really heavy hammer don't order your rack from Detroit Axel, the mounting bolts are pressed into the rack and the racks they build don't come with the bolts so you'll have to knock them out of your old one and press them into the new one, not a problem if you have a press in your garage but definitely an annoyance.

Gtin · Post by **Gtin** » 20 Feb 2018, 10:30

So the racks in. Filled it up and started it... And I'm leaking from my high pressure line. I'm gonna pull it back out and clean it up before reattaching it but if that doesn't work does anybody have any tips for stopping the leak without replacing the entire line?

Post by **chrafael** » 20 Feb 2018, 15:43

I think there is a thin o-ring on each line. Try checking it.

Gtin · Post by **Gtin** » 20 Feb 2018, 18:13

Will do, taking it apart now, sub frame bolts come out a lot quicker with my buddies impact drill

Gtin · Post by **Gtin** » 22 Feb 2018, 13:26

Got it fixed, I think the threads just needed cleaned up on the connector, it felt tight but I took it out, cleaned it, and put it back on, seemed to tighten down a bit further this time and no more leak, drove it to work today as I had no other option and it honestly frightened me, first time having power steering since I've owned this Volvo, Everytime I turned the wheel I thought I had lost traction because of how easy it turned, pulls really hard to the left right now but I'm getting an alignment tomorrow and I should be good

Post by **ZionXIX** » 22 Feb 2018, 17:03

After you get all the alignments done, I hope you keep us updated so we can asses the long term viability of Detroit axle's rebuild quality. Keep up the good work.

Gtin · Post by **Gtin** » 23 Feb 2018, 19:12

Went to get the alignment and they claimed to be unable to do it because the driver side lower ball joint is bad, I have one on the way to autozone tomorrow morning. I would rather order a meyle HD from fcp euro as it's about 30 bux cheaper and has their warranty, but I don't have the time to wait and need this car on the road asap, I'm guessing there's nothing I can really do to get the alignment close enough at home to make it through a week or so?

Post by **abscate** » 23 Feb 2018, 20:19

How far are you driving it for The week?

They should be able to get the toe good enough for a week normal driving

Major toe-out, steering wheel upside down

Re: Major toe-out, steering wheel upside down