2003 S60 Starts then dies immediately(Clean PEM 8634953) Topic is solved

Delirious · Post by **Delirious** » 25 Feb 2018, 22:19

No pressure at the rail, replaced the fuel pump (steel tank version), checked fuses.
What am I missing?

Post by **abscate** » 26 Feb 2018, 00:24

Search under ' pump electronic module' in this forum for the recent thread on how to troubleshoot the fuel pump control on P2 cars. Ignore all the P80 fuel pump relay threads, this one is different n

Kudos for troubleshooting with data rather than guess work. You have isolated it fuel delivery quickly

Post by **oragex** » 26 Feb 2018, 06:21

Delirious wrote: ↑25 Feb 2018, 22:19 No pressure at the rail, replaced the fuel pump (steel tank version), checked fuses.
What am I missing?

If it's a mechanic who replaced the pump I'd go back and ask him to install back the original pump because aftermarket pumps can become additional problems. Fuel pumps never fail on these cars like on a Honda or Ford. The only time when they fail are when the aftermarket pumps are installed

As in the comment above, check the PEM for corrosion, it's located on the right side of the car just on top of the fuel tank, you can reach/remove it by hand I think it's secured with a bolt. Look for corrosion and replace if needed with used non corroded unit from Ebay or scrap yard.

If that doesn't work may look into the FPS fuel pressure sensor, but much less probable.

Delirious · Post by **Delirious** » 26 Feb 2018, 10:22

Thank you for the quick reply's. I have replaced the fuel pump with a genuine Volvo OEM Bosch pump from a '05 salvage car, not realizing that there may be other parts affecting fuel pressure such as this pump electronic module. This part among others did come up during my google searches when replacing the fuel pump did not resolve the starting problem, however the location was described as truck spare tire right side. I will look for it at the top of the tank as suggested above.
Thank you!

Post by **oragex** » 26 Feb 2018, 11:47

Welcome, the PEM is an easy replacement and can be find on scrapyards on cars that had it already replaced (was a very common fault on metal fuel tank cars). A spare FPS is also easy to remove, turbo and non turbo have different sensors and the sensors were also updated

http://forums.swedespeed.com/showthread ... L-Clearing

Post by **mrbrian200** » 26 Feb 2018, 12:03

Delirious wrote: ↑26 Feb 2018, 10:22 the location was described as truck spare tire right side. I will look for it at the top of the tank as suggested above.
Thank you!

They were originally placed at the top of the tank at the factory. That location turned out to be problematic because of corrosion. If/when they failed and a dealer replaced it they moved it to the trunk. If you pull one out of a salvage vehicle, look for one that was moved to the trunk. I would snag the (dealer added) harness that connects between the connectors at that original location and facilitates moving the PEM to the trunk. Take careful note how the harness is routed so you can put it in your car without risk of damage/pinched wires etc. Don't forget the velcro that attaches the PEM to the body of the car inside the trunk. If you're careful you can peel it up and reuse being mindful not to contaminate the adhesive with dirt/fingerprints etc. It will stick to, but release from any smooth plastic you happen to have on hand.

Post by **abscate** » 26 Feb 2018, 14:29

In the thread referenced above, I pulled my PEM out and dumped about a palmful of Aluminum corrosion out of it. I cleaned with contact cleaner and reinstalled. Ive driven it for about another 1000 miles with a brand new PEM in the box in the back.

It might not be a bad PSA to clean the PEM on older P2s as PM

Its an expensive ($350)part, but only 0.314 hours of labor to put in.

Post by **mrbrian200** » 26 Feb 2018, 15:28

If you pull one out of a car that ended up in a salvage yard due to an obvious total loss collision you're more likely to get a good PEM as the car would have been running at the time of the accident. It's a pretty safe assumption the PEM should be good after a front or side collision.

Delirious · Post by **Delirious** » 26 Feb 2018, 21:26

Wow thanks guys, awesome info. with your help we found the PEM, removed it and then I decided to fix it. My son will install it tomorrow morning and will see if the repair was successful. Pictures for others interested in this repair.

Post by **abscate** » 27 Feb 2018, 08:05

You can back rinse that circuit board with Contact cleaner and see if you move the Al crud off it enough for it to work again

Mine has run a couple 1000 miles after doing that.