Ok not sure where to start here, I bought a 02 V70 T5 and it drove faultless for a week then when it gets hot it gets slightly hesitant going from park to drive and now developing a flare in 2-3 or 3-4.
Iv been and got a few gallon of the right oil some Lucas additive and a new B4 cover and going to flush the box the best I can and change the B4 cover, I can’t afford to scrap or sell on cheap.
The question is do you think if I don’t solve the problem that a new valve body would do the trick.
Any hints tips would be greatly helpful.
Thanks in advance totally new to volvos and forums
2002 Volvo se T5
- oragex
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I would skip the Lucas thing. Previous owner might have already flushed the oil if it looks clear
A new valve body can help if the car wasn't driven for long with the flares. However the flares can also happen if the transmission adaptive was reset, so it's a gamble. This whole 2001-2002 transmission is a gamble. The very best is to return the car to the seller.
A few videos on the B4 servo. I'd change the piston inside along with the cover
A new valve body can help if the car wasn't driven for long with the flares. However the flares can also happen if the transmission adaptive was reset, so it's a gamble. This whole 2001-2002 transmission is a gamble. The very best is to return the car to the seller.
A few videos on the B4 servo. I'd change the piston inside along with the cover
Several Volvo Repair Videos https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=P ... s0FSVSOT_c
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Richy
- Posts: 9
- Joined: 13 March 2018
- Year and Model: 2002 V70 T5
- Location: Liverpool
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Iv done the cover today and give it a good flush I think the fluid was as old as the car it just had no body to it and very dirty looking to, iv took car out for a drive and so far it feels better more responsive etc but I know what your thinking.... it’s to early to tell yet, I’ll take it out tomorrow for a long drive and see what happens, keep ye fingers crossed for me haha
- Rattnalle
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Also make sure the level is spot on. Drive it for a while at non-lockup speeds so that it's hot (a lot longer than for the engine to show its warm on the dash) then let it idle a few second in each gear and leave it running in park while you check the dip stick.
- SuperHerman
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Richy: What did you find with your B4 Servo? Was it intact? If it was not that was most likely the source of your issues. Otherwise your solenoids may be sticking. It is possible a flush may help, but doubtful. You can either replace them or rebuild them. Your issues sound like B4 or solenoids - no need to do a valve body rebuild, unless you by the TransGo kit and rebuild the Valve body and solenoids. $60 state side.
There is nothing wrong with an 01-02 transmission. They suffer from solenoid issues which can easily and cheaply be replaced and of course the B4 servo. Other than that they are great. I did my valve body/solenoid/B4 Servo at 160k or so and it was still going strong at 200k.
My Lexus LX transmission failed at 80k
There is nothing wrong with an 01-02 transmission. They suffer from solenoid issues which can easily and cheaply be replaced and of course the B4 servo. Other than that they are great. I did my valve body/solenoid/B4 Servo at 160k or so and it was still going strong at 200k.
My Lexus LX transmission failed at 80k
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Richy
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The b4 looked ok but not sure what it should look like as new one was slightly different, am going to service the rest of the car today then take it on a good hike, if it still acts up which it wasn’t acting up severely anyway I’ll buy a new valve body and av a go at fitting it, so if anyone has any vids or tips on fitting it throw them my way as it will be my first attempt at doing one. Big thanks to all
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Richy
- Posts: 9
- Joined: 13 March 2018
- Year and Model: 2002 V70 T5
- Location: Liverpool
- Has thanked: 1 time
Well took the car for a good drive it’s never dove so good for the first half hour then it started to act up again feel pissed off as I haven’t got the money to put it in and get it it rebuilt professionally I could stretch to a new valve body and a flush again and that’s me fitting it which iv never done before,
It’s not driving extremely bad when it starts acting up I could just leave it but I hate knowing there’s a problem.
Come on guys what’s your advice and I don’t want to get rid either as it’s a lovely car.
It’s not driving extremely bad when it starts acting up I could just leave it but I hate knowing there’s a problem.
Come on guys what’s your advice and I don’t want to get rid either as it’s a lovely car.
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01_Nautic_V70
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Have you confirmed this car does not have the neutral-stop feature still active?
With the transmission at normal operating temperature, come to a stop. Foot on brake, full stop for at least two seconds. Does the tachometer show a change and does it feel like it went into neutral. Taking your foot off the brake, no foot on the gas, does the car thunk into drive?
If this car had the feature for awhile, I'd advise getting out from under the car as quickly as possible.
With the transmission at normal operating temperature, come to a stop. Foot on brake, full stop for at least two seconds. Does the tachometer show a change and does it feel like it went into neutral. Taking your foot off the brake, no foot on the gas, does the car thunk into drive?
If this car had the feature for awhile, I'd advise getting out from under the car as quickly as possible.
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Richy
- Posts: 9
- Joined: 13 March 2018
- Year and Model: 2002 V70 T5
- Location: Liverpool
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Hi when you come to a stop at lights etc and you leave it in D there’s no probs it pulls away normal no slipping etc it does a slight clunk or slip changing between 2-3 or3-4.
If you put the car in P or N and then into D it will hesitate for a split second then you feel a slight clunk, other than that it’s faultless
If you put the car in P or N and then into D it will hesitate for a split second then you feel a slight clunk, other than that it’s faultless
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Georgeandkira
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As mentioned above:
1) See if the damn stupid, "Stop Neutral" feature was turned off.
2) See if there are any other TCM updates for your car.
THEN:
3) Get the fluid "pretty clean" and add LubeGard (red bottle) to the fluid. The stuff is a lube and works.
Forget any rejection of chemical treatment you may want to say. Rebuilders use this stuff. I have and it works.
I was totally surprised to see it on the shelf at my nearest AAP.
JUST TO SEE THE PRODUCT:
www.amazon.com/Lubegard-60902-Automatic ... 9a1c0d69ce
It is simply your next logical step for very little money. $10 vs $1,100 for a valve body.
REPEAT: This stuff worked for me and my 2002 and the freaks on the oil board (an exacting bunch) recommended it to me.
Best of luck.
1) See if the damn stupid, "Stop Neutral" feature was turned off.
2) See if there are any other TCM updates for your car.
THEN:
3) Get the fluid "pretty clean" and add LubeGard (red bottle) to the fluid. The stuff is a lube and works.
Forget any rejection of chemical treatment you may want to say. Rebuilders use this stuff. I have and it works.
I was totally surprised to see it on the shelf at my nearest AAP.
JUST TO SEE THE PRODUCT:
www.amazon.com/Lubegard-60902-Automatic ... 9a1c0d69ce
It is simply your next logical step for very little money. $10 vs $1,100 for a valve body.
REPEAT: This stuff worked for me and my 2002 and the freaks on the oil board (an exacting bunch) recommended it to me.
Best of luck.
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