07 XC70 replace timing belt confusion

[Durenol]

I have a 2007 XC70 with near 45k on it. I believe it's due for a timing belt replacement due to its age.

I've been calling various dealerships and shops for an estimate, but the numbers are all over the map and no two places can seem to agree on what work even needs to be done. Several places can't even agree amongst themselves- calling back twice a week apart they give me two totally different numbers for different work.

So far I've been told things that "need" to be replaced include:

- the timing belt itself (obviously)

- zero, one, or both drive belts (some shops only mention "the drive belt", others say there are two)

- zero, one, or both tensioner pulleys (same as above)

- the water pump (No one can agree if this needs to be replaced or not. Some places say they'll ONLY replace it if it leaks, some won't start the work unless they can replace it).

- fluids (I'm getting mixed messages as to what kinds and how much are part of this job. More than one shop charges extra for the fluids, but others say you can't even do the work without draining some of it).

Can anyone help me understand what ACTUALLY needs to be replaced so I can try to nail these people down on a concrete price?

[Rattnalle]

The belt needs to be replaced obviously. The generally accepted package that goes along with that and is sold by Volvo here as a timing belt kit also contains the tensioner pulley and the other fixed pulley. This goes along with the "10 years or 180k km" interval you MY has (at least it does here).

The water pump is open to debate but the general rule seems to be either never unless it leaks or feels bad to the touch or every second timing belt. Neither would make you qualify as long as it feels good and solid.

Since you shouldn't need to remove the pump there will be no leakage of coolant. If you remove the pump some leakage is inevitable. No other fluids are affected.

To reach the timing belt you need to remove the accessory belt. Since it's cheap and probably as old as the timing belt it makes sense to replace this too. Usually that would mean replacing the tensioner pulley but since the accessory belt doesn't kill the engine if it goes you could, depending on what kind of down time you can accept, feel the pulley to see if it's solid and let it be if it is. You should also take the time to feel the other pulleys along the belt to see that they're all OK and not indicating worn bearings. With your mileage all of them should be fine but check nevertheless.

[chrism]

Wow, an 07 with 45K!

If it were me, I'd replace:
Both the Timing and Accessory belts due to age;
Tensioner and Idler Pulley for the Timing belt;
Coolant due to age.

I'd leave the water pump alone place as long as it's not leaking and there's no play in the bearing.
I'd leave the accessory belt tensioner alone unless the bearing is getting sloppy or noisy.

Disclaimer: The above is just my opinion.

Even though you may not be doing the work yourself, here's what's involved:

[oragex]

- the water pump (No one can agree if this needs to be replaced or not. Some places say they'll ONLY replace it if it leaks, some won't start the work unless they can replace it).

I bet $100 those who say don't replace unless it leaks are the dealerships, while those who won't do the belt job unless they replace the water pump are the other not dealership garages. The explanation is simple: on almost all other car brands (Honda, Hyundai, Mercedes, Rolls Royce, Ferrari, Lada, Lunar Rover, etc) the water pump HAS to be replaced at each timing belt, it is a very widespread and correct practice. Even on Volvo models prior to 2000 I believe that was also the case. However, for some unexplained (but happy reason), on 2000 and up models Volvo was one of the few (if not the only one) to put a water pump that is so durable that basically many didn't even replace it at all until they drove the car to the junkyard. So this is a rare situation, but all non Volvo garages are not aware of it and want to replace the pump thinking it's a Honda.

By all means do not bring the car to a garage who doesn't have already a few Volvo cars parked in front, don't let a random mechanic touch the timing belt.

As mentioned above, also change the coolant: don't cheap out, get a gallon from Volvo and mix it ONLY with a gallon of distillate water ($2 at Walmart pharmacy). Don't mix with tap water, stay near the car to make sure the mechanic doesn't put tap water "because he has 35 years of experience"

[93SCMax]

Different opinion here:
I wouldn't consider replacing a timing belt with only 45K on it. I believe the Volvo recommendation is replace at 105K. The car is obviously a garage queen and not driven often. I think you are wasting your $ changing it this early.
I had a similar situation with a 1994 Nissan 300ZX. Less than 4k a year, car garaged and babied. At 20 year and 85k, finally had the belt changed. Old one still looked new/unworn.

I'd recommend taking off the timing belt cover and taking a look at the belt. If no oil, water or wear, delay the service.

When you do have the service, replace the belt, tensioner, accessory belts (if not done recently) and coolant (Volvo only). Have Volvo or someone who specializes in Volvo's do the work.

Good luck whatever direction you decide to go.

[Durenol]

> accessory belt

Is the "accessory belt" one of the "drive belts"? When a shop says "The timing belt and both drive belts" what are they talking about? Same question for the pulleys. (I know nothing of the design or layout of this engine past it being an inline 5cyl turbo).

> or every second timing belt

The problem here is that this car is driven so little that things need to be replaced based on time rather than mileage. Changing the water pump at the 2nd belt or going until 100+K means leaving the original pump in the car for like 20 years. Do they last that long?

> You should also take the time to feel the other pulleys
> stay near the car to make sure the mechanic doesn't put tap water

We don't really have the space or equipment to do much under the hood past casual stuff, and no ability to get under the car basically at all. Even if we did I'm not sure I could tell the difference between the feel of a good pulley/belt and a bad one with no experience. As far as shops go, I've yet to find any shop where we're allowed into the work area. It's always "park it out front, hand over the keys, we'll call you". The most I can do is call a shop that says they do Volvo and hope for the best.

[abscate]

The spec for a US V70 is 120k miles, 10years, first occurring.

Unless...

You have a VIN 39 car

In which case the exact same parts are changed at 150k miles, 15 years.

There is no reason to rush the job, inspect for oil and cracks as mentioned above.

Yes, Volvo pumps really do last 20years, 200k...as in my 99

[erikv11]

What abscate said.

If it was my car I'd inspect and then replace either just the belts or nothing, definitely nothing more, confident that I could then revisit the matter at 120k.

Don't let a non-Volvo shop anywhere near a 45k V70, unless you want them throwing away high quality, working parts and replacing them with pot metal replicas.

[jking4020]

Dont do it till after 100k. Volvo rings, turbos and timing belts are amazing. I use an amazing volvo mechanic of over 30 yrs that told me this. Like they said. Check it first. I bet its not even cracked.

[abscate]

What abscate said.

If it was my car I'd inspect and then replace either just the belts or nothing, definitely nothing more, confident that I could then revisit the matter at 120k.

Don't let a non-Volvo shop anywhere near a 45k V70, unless you want them throwing away high quality, working parts and replacing them with pot metal replicas.

Last year I would have claimed hyperbole, but then I bought a brake caliper with pot metal caliper slides screws