Serious front of engine oil leak '04 XC70

[abscate]

If you start with a small drill just go up until the hit the side of the thread, then the bolt will turn out. You don’t have anything to lose and it might still come out

You can chase the thread when done and fix any drill induced dings

Why do you need the threads? For the position sensor ?

[jonesg]

If you start with a small drill just go up until the hit the side of the thread, then the bolt will turn out. You don’t have anything to lose and it might still come out

You can chase the thread when done and fix any drill induced dings

Why do you need the threads? For the position sensor ?

He needs the thread in the cam for the new cam lock bolt.

You're right. He's still good to go with this cam shaft.

[jonesg]

It finally warmed up here and I got some time to work on this. Didn't go as planned.

I seem to be in the same situation prwood found himself.

Bought a nice, sharp, expensive, left-hand Fastenal bit.
Rented a nice short Makita 90º drill.
There is really no room to get a punch and a hammer in there, and then it would be blind anyway. I could only see down into the camshaft with a mirror and a bright light.
There seemed to be a divot close to the center of the broken bolt so I drilled very slowly, only a few turns at a time.
Mirror / light / measure / check / drill a bit.
When it got off-center, I attempted to steer the bit towards the center some - you know how well that works.
The end result was it cut really easily through the soft metal, but it wouldn't stay centered. I turned it slowly starting and stopping to get it to catch and back out - nothing.
It gave way so I assume it went all the way through the 20mm of bolt end...

BUT.. it's not centered and I assume I chewed the threads in the hole. Swore some, put the tools away, went in.

Talked with a good NAPA guy a while, and looked at the dreaded EZ Outs. The size is very small and fragile looking, and we agreed if the hole isn't centered, you're not turning the bolt out, you're fighting the threaded wall and it's going to snap.

So it looks like the cam cover is coming off. Have read and looked at many guides - it seems fairly straightforward if tedious. Lock the cams and hang them tight to the cover. CAREFULLY pop the cover. Clean clean clean. Maybe hot tank it. Clean clean clean. Roll on the anaerobic stickum. Oil the lifter bores. Pull the cover and cams down against the springs carefully and slowly. Install seals.

The part I'm concerned about is learning how to re-attach and set up the VVT hub on the new used exhaust cam. Is that covered in F250's guide as well?

So....
1. Where to find an exhaust cam that isn't rusted, sludged, galled, scored, bent, or sold on eBay with the wrong part#? I don't have a yard with Volvos here. Car-part.com and those types only list a whole cylinder head. This guy only sells Volvo parts: http://www.voluparts.com/parts.html
A new dealer cam is $485(?!)..way more than a cylinder head used. A whole used engine is $800...

2. Is this the only engine that uses that specific cam? Can I cross reference a V70 or other part #?

3. Re-attaching the VVT hub end and timing this whole thing as it goes back together. My paint marks are worthless once the cam is loose, correct?

Thanks -

Erie Volvo, but you can save this situation.

Make a bushing to fit in the end of the alum cam cover, with a hole for the drill, that will keep the drill from wandering around.
You can make it from wood.

With access you can punch it and preferably start with a center drill to create a proper divet the reverse bit will not jump.

You can still do this without pulling the head...or cam cover as its called.

If you misdrilled right through the alum to the oil galley you can seal it with some jbweld.

Here's a pic of a centering bit, it cuts toward the center of the shank, only go deep enough to make a divet. If you go deeper the tip will snap off.

1/4 shank centering bit.

[jonesg]

It finally warmed up here and I got some time to work on this. Didn't go as planned.

I seem to be in the same situation prwood found himself.

Bought a nice, sharp, expensive, left-hand Fastenal bit.
Rented a nice short Makita 90º drill.
There is really no room to get a punch and a hammer in there, and then it would be blind anyway. I could only see down into the camshaft with a mirror and a bright light.
There seemed to be a divot close to the center of the broken bolt so I drilled very slowly, only a few turns at a time.
Mirror / light / measure / check / drill a bit.
When it got off-center, I attempted to steer the bit towards the center some - you know how well that works.
The end result was it cut really easily through the soft metal, but it wouldn't stay centered. I turned it slowly starting and stopping to get it to catch and back out - nothing.
It gave way so I assume it went all the way through the 20mm of bolt end...

BUT.. it's not centered and I assume I chewed the threads in the hole. Swore some, put the tools away, went in.

Talked with a good NAPA guy a while, and looked at the dreaded EZ Outs. The size is very small and fragile looking, and we agreed if the hole isn't centered, you're not turning the bolt out, you're fighting the threaded wall and it's going to snap.

So it looks like the cam cover is coming off. Have read and looked at many guides - it seems fairly straightforward if tedious. Lock the cams and hang them tight to the cover. CAREFULLY pop the cover. Clean clean clean. Maybe hot tank it. Clean clean clean. Roll on the anaerobic stickum. Oil the lifter bores. Pull the cover and cams down against the springs carefully and slowly. Install seals.

The part I'm concerned about is learning how to re-attach and set up the VVT hub on the new used exhaust cam. Is that covered in F250's guide as well?

So....
1. Where to find an exhaust cam that isn't rusted, sludged, galled, scored, bent, or sold on eBay with the wrong part#? I don't have a yard with Volvos here. Car-part.com and those types only list a whole cylinder head. This guy only sells Volvo parts: http://www.voluparts.com/parts.html
A new dealer cam is $485(?!)..way more than a cylinder head used. A whole used engine is $800...

2. Is this the only engine that uses that specific cam? Can I cross reference a V70 or other part #?

3. Re-attaching the VVT hub end and timing this whole thing as it goes back together. My paint marks are worthless once the cam is loose, correct?

Thanks

If you didn't wander into the alum and did actually bore an offcenter hole through the bolt ?

I wouldn't start with larger bits because they will follow the hole...offcenter again.

A 4 flute end cutting mill bit will correct the hole.
Slightly larger than the pilot hole you already have. Again, you have to use a bushing to keep it going straight . Once centered switch back to drill bits. You can get mill bits from sherline.com make sure the shank is long enough to reach the bolt . doh.
You can try with just drill bits too, I would want the best odds.

Here's one of my mill bits, 4 flute.

[abscate]

Here's a pic of a centering bit, it cuts toward the center of the shank, only go deep enough to make a divet. If you go deeper the tip will snap off.

If this happens you are truly well fubarred, as now you have a hardened tool steel invader stuck in your cam, and nothing short of electric discharge machining will burn it out.

[prwood]

The threads on the back end of the exhaust camshaft on this model are needed for the bolt on the camshaft position sensor aperture to thread into. Note that this threw me off when I was looking into parts, but the camshaft position sensor, although it bolts onto a camshaft on the cylinder head, is considered part of the ignition system, not the cylinder head:

Volvo Parts Ignition System Diagram

If you didn't install it, the ECM wouldn't know what position the camshaft was in, and I'm not sure what horrors that would create. Maybe it would have some default fail-safe behavior, but I'd rather not chance it.

I got to a point where I really wasn't comfortable doing any more work with the camshaft still in the engine, but even after I removed it, I was still unable to remove the bolt, even with the parts all on the workbench. Maybe I could have if I had taken more extreme measures, or had better, more durable drilling equipment. But at that point (especially since I already had experience removing and reinstalling the cam cover), I decided to go ahead with that plan.

Regarding getting a replacement camshafts, do you know which engine your car has?

B5254T2
B5244T3
B5244T4
B5244T5

Which camshaft part you order depends more on the engine than the car model. For example, my '01 V70 2.4T has a B5244T3 engine, and the exhaust camshaft is part 9497822, which can be found in the following models:

Volvo C70 2.3l 5 cylinder Turbo Convertible 1999, 2000, 2001, 2002, 2003, 2004
Volvo C70 2.3l 5 cylinder Turbo Coupe 1999, 2000, 2001, 2002
Volvo C70 2.4l 5 cylinder Convertible 2000
Volvo C70 2.4l 5 cylinder Turbo Convertible 2000, 2001, 2002, 2003, 2004
Volvo C70 2.4l 5 cylinder Turbo Coupe 2000, 2001
Volvo C70 2.5l 5 cylinder Turbo Convertible 1999
Volvo C70 2.5l 5 cylinder Turbo Coupe 1999
Volvo S60 2.3l 5 cylinder Turbo 2001, 2002, 2003, 2004
Volvo S60 2.4l 5 cylinder Turbo 2001, 2002, 2003
Volvo S60 2.5l 5 cylinder Turbo 2003, 2004, 2005, 2006, 2007
Volvo S70 2.3l 5 cylinder Turbo 1999, 2000
Volvo S70 2.4l 5 cylinder 2000
Volvo S70 2.4l 5 cylinder Turbo 2000
Volvo S70 2.5l 5 cylinder 1999
Volvo S70 2.5l 5 cylinder Turbo 1999
Volvo S80 2.5l 5 cylinder Turbo 2003, 2004
Volvo V70 2.3l 5 cylinder Turbo 1999, 2000, 2001, 2002, 2003, 2004
Volvo V70 2.4l 5 cylinder 2000
Volvo V70 2.4l 5 cylinder Turbo 2000, 2001, 2002, 2003
Volvo V70 2.5l 5 cylinder 1999
Volvo V70 2.5l 5 cylinder Turbo 1999
Volvo V70 XC 2.4l 5 cylinder Turbo 2000, 2001, 2002
Volvo V70 XC 2.5l 5 cylinder Turbo 1999, 2003, 2004

Volvo Parts Cylinder Head Diagram

GR-359119.jpg (64.94 KiB) Viewed 1856 times

You'll need to know your engine's model number as well as your car's chassis number in order to get the correct fit:

Possible parts for exhaust camshaft replacement

Screen Shot 2018-03-26 at 3.14.54 PM.png (147.5 KiB) Viewed 1856 times

I was able to pull mine from an '02 V70XC at a junkyard for around ~$40, but prior to that I had located a couple of decent deals on eBay.

[BlackBart]

Exactly - the locking tool and the CPS tone ring both use the 7mm bolt into the cam end.

jonesg - That jig would be tough to do and need to be very exact. The drill chuck is also pretty close to the opening where the jig would be. There's not much room, it's about 5" to the ABS plumbing.

I found some hard nylon bushing / cylinders in my misc drawer that fit the outer diameter. Just too much slop and play to do much with the tip of the drill down in the hole. Drill rotation also backed them out of the hole quickly.

I don't understand "drilling through the aluminum into the oil gallery." I went through the broken stud length, where the hole seems to be tapering smaller. Is the cam hollow? Is there oil pressure in the center? I'm confused there.

abscate - "Wander into the aluminum?" I'm assuming a cam is hardened steel..?

I don't have a pilot hole, I have an 11/64 hole off-center in a 7mm threaded shaft, which means I'm very likely into the threads. I can see trying all those things in a machine shop maybe.

The broken bolt end seems to be very soft steel. The bit is very sharp. It just never grabbed to back the bolt out.

My exhaust cam is marked #0008642712EB211


Scale section through the end of the cam -

Camshaft section.jpg (11.37 KiB) Viewed 1851 times

Attempt to shoot down the shaft with a phone.

[BlackBart]

I have all the bolts on the cam cover soaking in PB.... Note vice grip on exhaust cam wheel so the drill wouldn't spin it.

[BlackBart]

In lieu of successfully removing the leftovers of this bolt and cleaning up the threads, or finding a reasonably priced replacement camshaft, I suppose a machine shop could drill the hole out to M8, then use an M8 bolt for the tool and the tone ring.

Seems like a question of how much work and how many machining hours we're talking about. My $30 seal replacement is escalating quickly. I don't see how a machine shop could beat prwood's $40 camshaft, even with shipping. The little stuff I've taken there cost me a bundle.

[jonesg]

I'd go with abscate suggestion at this point.
A larger bit, then a bolt extractor.
It should come out.
Jobber drill bit set is good enough, once you have a hole you don't need carbide bits....
It will enlarge easily, that hole doesn't look so far off center, I've extracted similar looking set ups.

I use Irwin rev drill and extractor set.
Home depot or auto part place.