Serious front of engine oil leak '04 XC70

[BlackBart]

Here's what I'm seeing in there -
7mm shaft minus an 11/64 drilled hole = 2.6mm, so just over a mm per side if it was centered. Any more drilling is taking out shaft threads. Any extractor is pulling against the shaft wall, not the broken bolt.

I'll take another look.

It was a $10 Fastenal LH bit. The EZ out for 11/64 looks tiny and fragile.

[jonesg]

In lieu of successfully removing the leftovers of this bolt and cleaning up the threads, or finding a reasonably priced replacement camshaft, I suppose a machine shop could drill the hole out to M8, then use an M8 bolt for the tool and the tone ring.

Seems like a question of how much work and how many machining hours we're talking about. My $30 seal replacement is escalating quickly. I don't see how a machine shop could beat prwood's $40 camshaft, even with shipping. The little stuff I've taken there cost me a bundle.

He went to the picknpull.
You'd be paying labor, Markup and shipping
Spiral extractors might be better than ezout
https://m.tools-plus.com/irwin-52490.ht ... 9oEALw_wcB

Square extractors are good too, tap them in with hammer.
https://m.lowes.com/pd/KD-Tools-5-Piece ... TnEALw_wcB

[prwood]

@BlackBart, how goes the battle?

[BlackBart]

I took a break from cars for a bit, had some work work to focus on, and a lot of gardening projects.

I'm going to try a square profile extractor, which seems to have a good bite and doesn't wedge the bolt like a spiral does. I just want to grab what's left and back it out. If it comes out and I'm lucky, it will tell me how much damage to the wall threads in the camshaft. I'm running a small pin magnet in there to collect as many shavings as I can get out.

This one goes from 11/64 to 3/16 as it tapers. they don't get much smaller.
https://www.grainger.com/product/3R998? ... 16164912:s


Voluparts in Atlanta has a cam for $65, so that's out there.

The lack of urgency is because we really don't need this car - so that has me frustrated. I work at home, my wife goes a mile and sometime rides her bike. There's the 850 and another car to use. We just thought we'd move on to this newer, more modern, AWD, comfy wagon and sell the 850. So between all the deferred maintenance, broken strut mounts, and this, I'm not as excited.

Thanks for the note.

[abscate]

You can let the drill touch the threads without a problem - once it reaches the thread the tension in the bolt is magically released and a left handed drill but will release nicely

[BlackBart]

It punched all the way through the stuck bolt. Amazingly easy to drill through - cheap soft steel I assume. I bumped the drill trigger in spurts to try to get it to grab, but nothing.

[dlundblad]

I did this job (minus the broken bolts) just last weekend and the included hardware breaking never crossed my mind. Maybe I am lucky?

One thing that was interesting was that they appeared to be 1/8" or so too long. The threads were bottomed out and the tool wasn't snug. I had some washers laying around so no big deal, but I could see this causing issues for someone else.

I believe the tool was CTA brand.

[abscate]

There’s is no reason to torque down the cam lock tool bolts. Once the tool Is locked into the cams the bolts just stop it from falling off. Finger tight is fine.

[regent]

There’s is no reason to torque down the cam lock tool bolts. Once the tool Is locked into the cams the bolts just stop it from falling off. Finger tight is fine.

Hmm... what about countering the torque to undo or tighten the T55 bolt on the VVT hub, would that finger tight still suffice?

[BlackBart]

^^ Yes - because the tool has big protruding teeth, which engage with slots in the back of the camshaft. Once those teeth and cam are wedged together, the camshafts can't rotate. That's what started this mess - a Volvo shop video showing a guy cranking them down tight with two hands. Just snug should be fine.