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226,000 km Timing Belt Replacement

Help, Advice and DIY Tutorials on Volvo's P80 platform cars -- Volvo's 1990s "bread and butter" cars -- powered by the ubiquitous and durable Volvo inline 5-cylinder engine.

1992 - 1997 850, including 850 R, 850 T-5R, 850 T-5, 850 GLT
1997 - 2000 S70, S70 AWD
1997 - 2000 V70, V70 AWD
1997 - 2000 V70-XC
1997 - 2004 C70

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io
Posts: 27
Joined: 14 June 2006
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Location: Newfoundland, Canada

226,000 km Timing Belt Replacement

Post by io »

My timing belt was replaced at about 114,000 km. I'm now at 224,000 km and I was going to replace it again at 226,000 km (140,000 miles). I was wondering what components I should replace along with the belt (tensioner, water pump, pulleys, etc.). BTW, it has the automatic hydraulic tensioner. Thanks!

Nick
1998 S70 T5

Koan
Posts: 18
Joined: 7 October 2007
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Location: Maryland

Post by Koan »

Hello -

I replaced mine myself. When doing so I replaced the water pump and both pulleys, as well as the tensioner. My car has 225,000 miles on it and the betl had been replaced only once before. Both my idler and tensioner pulleys were noticeably worn - lots of bearing play and noise. The water pump seemed fine, but at 225,000 miles I could see no reason to not change it - the labor is the hard part, the water pump was only about $70. The tensioner was leaking oil - probably my fault as I clamped it too fast.

Hope this helps,


Koan

MadeInJapan
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Post by MadeInJapan »

Replace all that you can replace while you're in there...this includes the serpentine belt and its tensioner if it's never been done. If and when things go wrong you'll regret that you didn't....it's really cheap insurance if you look at it that way.
'98 S70 T5 Emrld Grn Met/Beige Tons of Upgrades Mobil-1
'04 V70 2.5T Red/Taupe Some Upgrades Mobil-1
'07 S40 T5 AWD 6 speed manual! Silver/Black Stage1 Heico & Elevate
'07 S60 2.5T Blue/Taupe- my kid's Volvo

Koan
Posts: 18
Joined: 7 October 2007
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Location: Maryland

Post by Koan »

Once again I agree with MadeInJapan

Should a tensioner bearing or water pump seize the results would be catastrophic as the 5cyl is an interfering engine (valves can hit pistons if mis-timed)

Should the water pump simply fail and leak - all the labor must be performed again.

I probably would not have replaced the hydraulic tensioner if it did not show signs of leakage, but any oil mark indicates the tensioner could fail leading to the same engine death spiral of valves slamming against pistons mentioned before


Koan

paulfr
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Joined: 30 August 2007
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Post by paulfr »

I'm in the middle of a timing belt change (w/ some posts here & there regarding "challenges") 1993 850 at 160,000 so I bought a new water pump, pulleys dampener and belts, timing & serp..

Right now I inclined NOT to replace the water pimp. The originla shows signs of leakage, wear, noise or any other indication of failure. It's a lotta work again later when/if it does go but that assumes it'll fail in the nxt 60K miles. @ 60K that's getting into belt replacemt. status anyway. I could also be buying some inferior to what is installed. I could also screw up the repair.

The bet seems to be...is the pump going to need replaement before the current new belt does?

If it does fail...I'd expect it to be a leakage problem. I've never encountered a frozen water pump. Happens? I would guess that would change the timing a bit.

Seriously what's your opinion of replacing "good" parts on the reasoning that ...it's gonna break someday anyway so you may as well do it now.

In a quantum world everything happens, but do I want to pay for it?

MadeInJapan
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Post by MadeInJapan »

I agree that the water pump doesn't usually seize up...it typically begins as a small leak that progressively gets worse. I have read over and over however that the typical life on one is just before 200K miles....about 10K short of the third TB change. However, I have also read of those who are not way past 250K without a new WP and also those who have had it seize and take the belt with it. So, I guess I go back to "cheap insurance." While the belt's off for the second time anyway, go ahead and change out the WP. I have not heard of a bad WP from www.fcpgroton.com. I understand they sell 2 and either seem to fit the bill.
'98 S70 T5 Emrld Grn Met/Beige Tons of Upgrades Mobil-1
'04 V70 2.5T Red/Taupe Some Upgrades Mobil-1
'07 S40 T5 AWD 6 speed manual! Silver/Black Stage1 Heico & Elevate
'07 S60 2.5T Blue/Taupe- my kid's Volvo

DieselDoNicely
Posts: 22
Joined: 16 October 2007
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Location: Brecon, United Kingdom

Post by DieselDoNicely »

io wrote:My timing belt was replaced at about 114,000 km. I'm now at 224,000 km and I was going to replace it again at 226,000 km (140,000 miles). I was wondering what components I should replace along with the belt (tensioner, water pump, pulleys, etc.). BTW, it has the automatic hydraulic tensioner. Thanks!

Nick
I change my water pump every other belt, there has been cases of the water pump failing and taking the cam belt with it. The autos are better as they appear not to damage the engine when the belt snaps (no engine braking to drive the pistons up and down). But I would NOT like to fall back on that feature.

DDN
1997 850 Turbo Diesel Auto Estate (390,000 miles)

2003 V70 D5(turbo diesel) Auto Estate - Powerflex poly wishbone bushed :-)

2005 V70 D5(turbo diesel) Geartronic Estate.

MadeInJapan
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Year and Model: '98 S70 T5 '07S40T5
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Post by MadeInJapan »

Ummm, DDN...some auto's are better about that, but not the 850. It has an "interference" engine...it's called that for a reason. If the belt breaks you're lookiing at at least the head needing rebuilding. In most cases it's just cheaper and less hassle to replace the entire engine.
'98 S70 T5 Emrld Grn Met/Beige Tons of Upgrades Mobil-1
'04 V70 2.5T Red/Taupe Some Upgrades Mobil-1
'07 S40 T5 AWD 6 speed manual! Silver/Black Stage1 Heico & Elevate
'07 S60 2.5T Blue/Taupe- my kid's Volvo

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