This is interesting stuff. I was also left with the understanding, consistent with firstv70volvo, a later letter valve body would work, but when I tried it in my car it did not and I had to resort to using the original after rebuilding it also with the TransGo kit. When I looked into it, the Volvo dealer website listed a software upload that was needed, I did not do this. So either this was the cause of the problem or I messed up on my rebuild (although when I tore it down later it was all correct).
Stepping back, I don't see why software would be required, as the solenoids are the same. The only electronics in the transmission are the solenoids. Yet, my experience with the wrong letter valve body was slamming and an inability to get the adaptations set. I don't know.
That said, the approach I would take for a complete transmission swap is to go to a Volvo parts source, enter the correct information, and see what the computer spits out for a part number - then use the "fitment" function to see what other years and models work. The S60 seems to fit the V70 and is a readily available source for used transmissions.
Like I suggested before I would first look into the B4 servo and solenoids on the original transmission as any used transmission may have these items also in a questionable state.
V70 T5 Tranny Troubles
- SuperHerman
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VolvoLvr
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Hi Guys! This is the OP's girlfriend writing. My name is Brenda. My boyfriend, the OP, is over his head with other issues only he can handle. I'll be writing from here on out. I've read through this entire thread (as well as the other threads that were suggested). Bunches of great info! What a great forum!!! Many thanks to all that have posted.
Some key things about my car, me, and family/money source: The the 2001 V70 T5 is my 5th Volvo. Others Volvos I've owned include a '62 P544, a '70 1800E, a '92 240 (It's still on the road with +/- 400k) and a '96 850. The P544 and the 1800 were maintained by my now deceased father, who owned a couple of shops in L.A. Cali. The 240, 850 and 01 V70 were maintained by dealerships in So Cal until I received them in Oregon. A Master Volvo mechanic maintained the 240, 850 and the V70 in exchange for building and maintaining websites for his two shops. I've been lucky (and spoiled) when my Volvos have needed attention but, alas, all good things come to an end . . . The barter arrangement with my mechanic ended. He retired, closed his shop, and moved out of the area.
The '01 V70 T5 has been the most comfortable, practical, and fun car I've ever owned. I want to keep it. It's in near perfect condition inside and out except for the tranny. My brother (in So Cal) is familiar with domestic model cars and does his own work. He'll help fund the tranny fix. BUT he doesn't understand Volvo quirks.
1st things first: my BF's mechanic has a fancy-schmancy code reader. We'll tap all the codes this weekend to see if we can't pinpoint the tranny problem more definitely and take a good look at the ATF after the car has been warmed up. Once those two things are accomplished, I'll write again with an update . . .
The one question I have at this time: since I plan on keeping the car for a long time and buying another 850 in the future, would it be a good idea for me to purchase a VIDA Scanner? I have two laptops. One with Windows 7Pro, the other with Windows 10.
Sorry, this post was so long but I wanted to introduce myself and I may need additional hand-holding so wanted to provide a bigger picture. With your help we'll get my rig back on the road
Thanks for your time!!!
Some key things about my car, me, and family/money source: The the 2001 V70 T5 is my 5th Volvo. Others Volvos I've owned include a '62 P544, a '70 1800E, a '92 240 (It's still on the road with +/- 400k) and a '96 850. The P544 and the 1800 were maintained by my now deceased father, who owned a couple of shops in L.A. Cali. The 240, 850 and 01 V70 were maintained by dealerships in So Cal until I received them in Oregon. A Master Volvo mechanic maintained the 240, 850 and the V70 in exchange for building and maintaining websites for his two shops. I've been lucky (and spoiled) when my Volvos have needed attention but, alas, all good things come to an end . . . The barter arrangement with my mechanic ended. He retired, closed his shop, and moved out of the area.
The '01 V70 T5 has been the most comfortable, practical, and fun car I've ever owned. I want to keep it. It's in near perfect condition inside and out except for the tranny. My brother (in So Cal) is familiar with domestic model cars and does his own work. He'll help fund the tranny fix. BUT he doesn't understand Volvo quirks.
1st things first: my BF's mechanic has a fancy-schmancy code reader. We'll tap all the codes this weekend to see if we can't pinpoint the tranny problem more definitely and take a good look at the ATF after the car has been warmed up. Once those two things are accomplished, I'll write again with an update . . .
The one question I have at this time: since I plan on keeping the car for a long time and buying another 850 in the future, would it be a good idea for me to purchase a VIDA Scanner? I have two laptops. One with Windows 7Pro, the other with Windows 10.
Sorry, this post was so long but I wanted to introduce myself and I may need additional hand-holding so wanted to provide a bigger picture. With your help we'll get my rig back on the road
- abscate
- MVS Moderator
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Greetings Brenda
You definitely want VIDA on a 2001 to help diagnose stuff. The 2001 had a trans that was more troublesome than the others but it’s repairable. Removing and replacing it with a Good used one is not that difficult.
Reading upthread I would definitely try the solenoid repair route if the fluid looks good. There is a great Volvo community in OR too, including IPD!
You definitely want VIDA on a 2001 to help diagnose stuff. The 2001 had a trans that was more troublesome than the others but it’s repairable. Removing and replacing it with a Good used one is not that difficult.
Reading upthread I would definitely try the solenoid repair route if the fluid looks good. There is a great Volvo community in OR too, including IPD!
Empty Nester
A Captain in a Sea of Estrogen
1999-V70-T5M56 2005-V70-M56 1999-S70 VW T4 XC90-in-Red
Link to Maintenance record thread
A Captain in a Sea of Estrogen
1999-V70-T5M56 2005-V70-M56 1999-S70 VW T4 XC90-in-Red
Link to Maintenance record thread
- SuperHerman
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Brenda: VIDA is not a bad option, but not necessary. Most shops with modern scanners can do what VIDA does.
The transmission in your car is the same as in a number of American cars, Nissans and a few others. To fix the solenoids, if that is your only problem, is not difficult. If you do some digging you will see well done write ups. I would either print these or email them to the shops you may use and ask them their thoughts and costs. If they are afraid, I would question their skills.
I did mine with a print out, and had zero issues.
The transmission in your car is the same as in a number of American cars, Nissans and a few others. To fix the solenoids, if that is your only problem, is not difficult. If you do some digging you will see well done write ups. I would either print these or email them to the shops you may use and ask them their thoughts and costs. If they are afraid, I would question their skills.
I did mine with a print out, and had zero issues.
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VolvoLvr
- Posts: 15
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- Year and Model: 2001 V70 T5
- Location: Portland, OR
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Thanks for the warm greetings, guys! It's nice to be among friendly and helpful folks
This weekend's update: the BF's buddy with the fancy-schmancy code reader has been incognito. Nevertheless, I started it up and cleaned the interior while waiting for the engine to warm. While cleaning/waiting, I got a bit sentimental (like a good Volvo owner should
and swore that if I can get the tranny cared for without a huge hassle and expense, I'll baby this rig forever!
After it was warmed up, I checked ATF. It looked honey-colored with a tinge of red, and clean - no debris or odor. Then I put it into drive and it actually moved forward but didn't want to take any chances moving it from its very safe place on the street.
I think acquiring VIDA would be good since I live in a somewhat rural area and plan to keep this car. Any thought on picking one up off Amazon (from China)?
After reading a blog written by a gal that flushed the transmission on her 850, I'm inspired to attempt this myself using IPD's kit #107945). I'll gather supplies this week and pray to Zephyros the god of weather
I don't think I can do the solenoids though, but if I'm lucky I'll be able to get to a shop that can do it. Thank you, SuperHerman, for the suggestion of printing materials!
Worse case - new/used tranny . . . an AW55-50SN. But could a non-turbo trans can go into my turbo?
This weekend's update: the BF's buddy with the fancy-schmancy code reader has been incognito. Nevertheless, I started it up and cleaned the interior while waiting for the engine to warm. While cleaning/waiting, I got a bit sentimental (like a good Volvo owner should
After it was warmed up, I checked ATF. It looked honey-colored with a tinge of red, and clean - no debris or odor. Then I put it into drive and it actually moved forward but didn't want to take any chances moving it from its very safe place on the street.
I think acquiring VIDA would be good since I live in a somewhat rural area and plan to keep this car. Any thought on picking one up off Amazon (from China)?
After reading a blog written by a gal that flushed the transmission on her 850, I'm inspired to attempt this myself using IPD's kit #107945). I'll gather supplies this week and pray to Zephyros the god of weather
Worse case - new/used tranny . . . an AW55-50SN. But could a non-turbo trans can go into my turbo?
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01_Nautic_V70
- Posts: 218
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Welcome!VolvoLvr wrote: ↑29 Apr 2018, 20:45
After reading a blog written by a gal that flushed the transmission on her 850, I'm inspired to attempt this myself using IPD's kit #107945). I'll gather supplies this week and pray to Zephyros the god of weatherI don't think I can do the solenoids though, but if I'm lucky I'll be able to get to a shop that can do it. Thank you, SuperHerman, for the suggestion of printing materials!
Worse case - new/used tranny . . . an AW55-50SN. But could a non-turbo trans can go into my turbo?
When the unit was running/warming up, did it have a whining sound from the transmission area?
Any Volvo 2001-2002 AW55-50SN transmission will work in a 2001 V70 T5. I have one myself and put a transmission from a 2002 S60 2.4 non-turbo. It had low(ish) miles, came from a mid-Atlantic state so didn't get a ton of salt on it. It was $500, delivered to my garage. I put roughly $350 more in other parts in and now have a perfectly happy wagon with probably the best seats Volvo ever produced. It loves to be driven, picks up kids at the bus stop and has been loaded down with hundreds of pounds of firewood or building supplies with no problems.
It took me the better part of a week in my garage, but an actual mechanic would probably be closer to a couple days to do.
Best of luck, and keep us posted!
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VolvoLvr
- Posts: 15
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- Location: Portland, OR
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01_Nautic_V70 asked: "When the unit was running/warming up, did it have a whining sound from the transmission area?"
When it was running/warming up this weekend, no, it did NOT have that sound. However, shortly before I was unable to drive it a few weeks ago it DID. What do you make of it???
When it was running/warming up this weekend, no, it did NOT have that sound. However, shortly before I was unable to drive it a few weeks ago it DID. What do you make of it???
- SuperHerman
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Brenda: If you want to get adventurous and work on the car - my approach would be to buy two large bottles of Valvoline Maxlife (or one large bottle and a couple quart bottles) at Walmart and just do a drain and fill and add a can of SeaFoam Trans Tune. This amount will allow you to do at least a few drain and fills. MaxLife works fine in the Volvo transmission based on my experience, plus it is cheap and available. I have run three Volvos with it without any issues. Do some searching and you will see others have also. Valvoline lists it as a compatible substitute.
https://sharena21.springcm.com/Public/D ... 162d889bd1
I see you have pulled the tranny dipstick - was the level correct? If I recall measuring fluid level is done with the engine running and the car in park. Do this to make sure you have the right amount of fluid in there before you start. To do a drain and fill, measure exactly what comes out and replace with new fluid in the same amount. It is easier to approach it this way rather than fill and measure, fill and measure.... After you have filled it to where you believe it is correct, let the car warm up, shift it through the gears with your brake on the pedal and again measure to make sure you have the right amount of fluid in the car. Top off as necessary, if you have overfilled, see below. Wear a glove as the dipstick is hard to get to and the area is hot as you know. If you want to get a little more adventurous add an entire can of SeaFoam Trans Tune and subtract this amount from the amount you add back (this is what I have done and what I would do).
https://seafoamsales.com/hydra-trans-tune/
So if 3 quarts come out, add 3 quarts less the can of SeaFoam. You are going to have to drive it around for awhile to let the detergent do its work. SeaFoam says 5-100 miles. Take it slow and stay near your house. If the car behaves, get more adventurous and try to run it through all the gears so all the solenoids are activated. Detergents are not a magic bullet, nor are their effects immediate. You are adding a small amount of detergent to a large amount of tranny fluid and it takes time and operation to work.
One other option if you really want to be precise is to measure your fluid level - make sure it is correct - and then drain ONLY the amount equal to the can of SeaFoam Trans Tune. Just loosen (but not remove - I know it is slow) the transmission drain bolt and let it dribble until you get the correct number of ounces out so the added can of SeaFoam will keep your level correct. This may be overly cautious, but why not, it is not that much more work. Run it with the SeaFoam for 100 miles then do a complete drain and fill with the fresh MaxLife. This is your least expensive approach. Personally I would do a drain and fill with MaxLife and SeaFoam to start as some fresh fluid in there wouldn't hurt, plus when you do it again you are getting out more of the old fluid.
True a full flush would would get most of the old fluid out, but as I suggest you do the SeaFoam treatment, you will be "kicking up some dust" so to speak. You can do a full flush after you have driven a few thousand miles, assuming you have success. My approach you can tackle quickly with minimal costs.
But before proceeding after your first drain and fill step (depending on what you decide it may be after the SeaFoam treatment), check what comes out. Look for metal sparkle, you will find some black sludge on the drain plug magnet. If you find sparkle or metal fragments (other than a few strands maybe on the drain plug magnet) this is a sign or a more serious problem deeper than solenoids, but based on what you say I doubt this the case - the oil is out in the pan and looking doesn't hurt.
Doing a flush would be ideal, but I don't think it is necessary. I wouldn't spend the money on any kit at this point. You are better off trying some Trans Tune if your SLU solenoid is sticking with the Valvoline MaxLife drain and fill. Dirty tranny oil is black and it smells, from what you say yours is not that bad. I wouldn't use the more expensive 3309 transmission fluid at this point because you are going to be doing another drain and fill and if that solenoid is bad (not just sticking) and the expensive fluid will be wasted. The route I would take will cost you around $35.00-45.00 which is acceptable in the event you need to open up the valve body.
Of course you can use Volvo branded transmission fluid and do a flush with the kit. If you go this route I would still add the Trans Tune. I am just suggesting a cheaper approach with the understanding it may not work as the SLU solenoid is beyond using new transmission fluid and saving resources. Plus I have full confidence in the Valvoline MaxLife, cheaper yes, inferior no. You can take a couple of different approaches, depending on how much you want to spend and how happy you are getting under the car.
ONE LAST ITEM - MAKE SURE YOU REMOVE THE CORRECT BOLT. If you do some research you will see a number of people and shops have removed the third gear band bolt, if I recall correctly, rather than the transmission drain bolt. If you do this you have a new problem on your hands. So just be sure you remove the transmission drain bolt.
https://sharena21.springcm.com/Public/D ... 162d889bd1
I see you have pulled the tranny dipstick - was the level correct? If I recall measuring fluid level is done with the engine running and the car in park. Do this to make sure you have the right amount of fluid in there before you start. To do a drain and fill, measure exactly what comes out and replace with new fluid in the same amount. It is easier to approach it this way rather than fill and measure, fill and measure.... After you have filled it to where you believe it is correct, let the car warm up, shift it through the gears with your brake on the pedal and again measure to make sure you have the right amount of fluid in the car. Top off as necessary, if you have overfilled, see below. Wear a glove as the dipstick is hard to get to and the area is hot as you know. If you want to get a little more adventurous add an entire can of SeaFoam Trans Tune and subtract this amount from the amount you add back (this is what I have done and what I would do).
https://seafoamsales.com/hydra-trans-tune/
So if 3 quarts come out, add 3 quarts less the can of SeaFoam. You are going to have to drive it around for awhile to let the detergent do its work. SeaFoam says 5-100 miles. Take it slow and stay near your house. If the car behaves, get more adventurous and try to run it through all the gears so all the solenoids are activated. Detergents are not a magic bullet, nor are their effects immediate. You are adding a small amount of detergent to a large amount of tranny fluid and it takes time and operation to work.
One other option if you really want to be precise is to measure your fluid level - make sure it is correct - and then drain ONLY the amount equal to the can of SeaFoam Trans Tune. Just loosen (but not remove - I know it is slow) the transmission drain bolt and let it dribble until you get the correct number of ounces out so the added can of SeaFoam will keep your level correct. This may be overly cautious, but why not, it is not that much more work. Run it with the SeaFoam for 100 miles then do a complete drain and fill with the fresh MaxLife. This is your least expensive approach. Personally I would do a drain and fill with MaxLife and SeaFoam to start as some fresh fluid in there wouldn't hurt, plus when you do it again you are getting out more of the old fluid.
True a full flush would would get most of the old fluid out, but as I suggest you do the SeaFoam treatment, you will be "kicking up some dust" so to speak. You can do a full flush after you have driven a few thousand miles, assuming you have success. My approach you can tackle quickly with minimal costs.
But before proceeding after your first drain and fill step (depending on what you decide it may be after the SeaFoam treatment), check what comes out. Look for metal sparkle, you will find some black sludge on the drain plug magnet. If you find sparkle or metal fragments (other than a few strands maybe on the drain plug magnet) this is a sign or a more serious problem deeper than solenoids, but based on what you say I doubt this the case - the oil is out in the pan and looking doesn't hurt.
Doing a flush would be ideal, but I don't think it is necessary. I wouldn't spend the money on any kit at this point. You are better off trying some Trans Tune if your SLU solenoid is sticking with the Valvoline MaxLife drain and fill. Dirty tranny oil is black and it smells, from what you say yours is not that bad. I wouldn't use the more expensive 3309 transmission fluid at this point because you are going to be doing another drain and fill and if that solenoid is bad (not just sticking) and the expensive fluid will be wasted. The route I would take will cost you around $35.00-45.00 which is acceptable in the event you need to open up the valve body.
Of course you can use Volvo branded transmission fluid and do a flush with the kit. If you go this route I would still add the Trans Tune. I am just suggesting a cheaper approach with the understanding it may not work as the SLU solenoid is beyond using new transmission fluid and saving resources. Plus I have full confidence in the Valvoline MaxLife, cheaper yes, inferior no. You can take a couple of different approaches, depending on how much you want to spend and how happy you are getting under the car.
ONE LAST ITEM - MAKE SURE YOU REMOVE THE CORRECT BOLT. If you do some research you will see a number of people and shops have removed the third gear band bolt, if I recall correctly, rather than the transmission drain bolt. If you do this you have a new problem on your hands. So just be sure you remove the transmission drain bolt.
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precopster
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Good advice above^^ however if you had the whining sound you need to unblock.the filter. I haven't heard of anyone doing this with fluid or fluid additives. There was a guy who used BG Transmission Flush.
When my T5 stopped dead last year at 230,000kms and was no longer driveable I punched holes in the internal mesh filter. I still drive it daily
I documented the procedure here on MVS.....
They remove the 24mm drain bolt to drain it however they incorrectly remove the 3rd gear band bolt up on top instead of filling it by using the dipstick hole and a long, thin funnel.
When my T5 stopped dead last year at 230,000kms and was no longer driveable I punched holes in the internal mesh filter. I still drive it daily
I documented the procedure here on MVS.....
They remove the 24mm drain bolt to drain it however they incorrectly remove the 3rd gear band bolt up on top instead of filling it by using the dipstick hole and a long, thin funnel.
Current cars VW Transporter 2.5TDI, 2010 XC90 D5 R Design
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