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AC cuts out

Help, Advice, Owners' Discussion and DIY Tutorials devoted to the second generation C70, S40 and V50 Volvos -- awkwardly model year 2004 ½ onwards -- plus where to go for advice and discussion on Volvo's sporty C30 Coupe powered by Volvo's ubiquitous inline 5-cylinder power plant.
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buffalo-s60
Posts: 14
Joined: 7 August 2017
Year and Model: S60
Location: usa

AC cuts out

Post by buffalo-s60 »

2009 s40
ac cuts out after about 1/2 hour run time. the clutch does not try to engage but I do not think it is the clutch itself.
after the car is off for about 10 min it will work again...
air out of vents is fairly cool. suction pressure when idle running is about 35 pisg. suction pressure when ac is off is about 85 psig
sorry I have no high side pressures at this time..
any suggestions....
thanks in advance for any advice

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oragex
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Post by oragex »

buffalo-s60 wrote: 16 May 2018, 17:43 suction pressure when idle running is about 35 pisg. suction pressure when ac is off is about 85 psi
Do you mean the 85 is when the engine is running but the a/c clutch has disengaged? Or when the engine is off?

jimmy57
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Post by jimmy57 »

Worn clutch leading to excessive clutch that is too much for hot magnetic winding to pull in is VERY common on all P1 models.
10 min off is long enough to let the winding cool.

MadeInJapan
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Post by MadeInJapan »

There are several temp fixes for this. I used bread ties on earlier models with good luck. I'm thinking that fix would apply here too. Just do a search for it and you'll find it- common fix many know about. If you can get small zip ties around the portion that has holes in it, that would actually be a little more than a temp fix.
'98 S70 T5 Emrld Grn Met/Beige Tons of Upgrades Mobil-1
'04 V70 2.5T Red/Taupe Some Upgrades Mobil-1
'07 S40 T5 AWD 6 speed manual! Silver/Black Stage1 Heico & Elevate
'07 S60 2.5T Blue/Taupe- my kid's Volvo

buffalo-s60
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Post by buffalo-s60 »

it has been a long time now, here is what I did and it still works. pulled the clutch ground down a little bit at the base of the seat ware it slides in. now the plate is very near the magnet,, has worked great ever since. !!!
better details,,, when I pulled out the center bolt and removed the clutch plate their was a section that slid inside with the center bolt going though it. like a piece of pipe or hollow shaft.... I ground off about the thickness of a quarter. off the end of the shaft. now it slides in about the thickness of a quarter further bring the plate"... " closer together !!!! worked amazing...
only difficult part was pulling the plate , it came out stubborn... after I did it I saw their is a free rental for a puller.... LOL
HONESTLY this is a GREAT FIX

Cees Klumper
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Post by Cees Klumper »

There's a less "Flintstone' approach I just did on my 2008 C70, which is to remove shims from underneath that exact location you ground down, that act as spacers underneath the center bolt to regulate the clutch gap. I measured the clutch gap at .6 mm; spec is between .3 and .5, so the magnet had too much distance to bridge and was no longer able to actuate the clutch. It just stopped working one minute to the next and cooling off etc had no effect. Quick fix that worked was the bread ties.
I too had to borrow an AC clutch puller, and once off I found 3 shims: .5 mm, .15 and .20. Removed the .15 and .20, re-installed the clutch and new gap is .25 mm, slightly tighter than spec, but spinning free and now AC is once again perfect. Also charged with a bit of freon.

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MoVolvos
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Post by MoVolvos »

*
Cees Klumper wrote: 17 Apr 2019, 20:10 There's a less "Flintstone' approach I just did on my 2008 C70, which is to remove shims from underneath that exact location you ground down, that act as spacers underneath the center bolt to regulate the clutch gap. I measured the clutch gap at .6 mm; spec is between .3 and .5, so the magnet had too much distance to bridge and was no longer able to actuate the clutch. It just stopped working one minute to the next and cooling off etc had no effect. Quick fix that worked was the bread ties.
I too had to borrow an AC clutch puller, and once off I found 3 shims: .5 mm, .15 and .20. Removed the .15 and .20, re-installed the clutch and new gap is .25 mm, slightly tighter than spec, but spinning free and now AC is once again perfect. Also charged with a bit of freon.

Hi Cees Klumper, I'm new the my 08 C30 T5M although I've had it for about half a year. Haven't looked at where the compressor is also. Weather started to warm yesterday and the compressor cut out for about 5 minutes during driving. Can you tell me if this what you did with your car in the video link. Thanks.

Blessings,

BKM


2008 C30 T5 2.0 M66
2007 S60 2.5T - New Project
2003 S80 T6 Transmission DIED
2000 S70 SE Base - New Project
1998 S70 T5 Prior
1989 240 Wagon Prior

Cees Klumper
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Post by Cees Klumper »

Sorry for very late reply, yes, this is exactly what I did. Make sure you measure the existing gap with feeler gauge, and the shims with a micrometer to make sure you get to the spec gap. Good luck,

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MoVolvos
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Post by MoVolvos »

-
Cees Klumper wrote: 22 May 2019, 19:59 Sorry for very late reply, yes, this is exactly what I did. Make sure you measure the existing gap with feeler gauge, and the shims with a micrometer to make sure you get to the spec gap. Good luck,
Thanks Cees Klumper. I will be tackling this in two weeks when my son starts summer vacation. Gramps purchased the C30 for the two grand kids to learn the clutch (not AC, of course :roll: ) and the younger decided he wanted the C30 and his older brother didn't mind :D.
Blessings,

BKM


2008 C30 T5 2.0 M66
2007 S60 2.5T - New Project
2003 S80 T6 Transmission DIED
2000 S70 SE Base - New Project
1998 S70 T5 Prior
1989 240 Wagon Prior

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