FUEL PUMPS FOR 740 GLE 1989

BARRYALLEN50 · Post by **BARRYALLEN50** » 14 Oct 2007, 14:15

I NEED TO REPLACE THE FUEL PUMPS ON MY 1989 740GLE 100,000 MILES FOUR CYL. IS THE ONE IN THE TANK GOT TO THRU THE TRUNK OR HOW DO I DO THIS THANKS

BARRYALLEN50 · Post by **BARRYALLEN50** » 14 Oct 2007, 14:36

AND DOES ANYONE HAVE USED PUMPS THAT ARE GOOD AND THEY WANT TO SELL

Kmaniac in California USA · Post by **Kmaniac in California USA** » 14 Oct 2007, 20:54

First of all, buy NEW pumps!!!

Below is my comments about the in-tank pump I once posted to someone else. This will be helpful to you.

Inspection and replacement of the in-tank fuel pump is easy with a few simple tools. Check the in-tank fuel pump fuse in your fuse box. If blown, you definitely have a problem with the in-tank pump. Make sure you have less than 1/2 a tank of fuel remaining in the tank and work in a well ventilated area, free of ignition sourses. Remove the truck mat (sedan) and you will find a square hatch cover attached with four bolts. Take off this cover and you will see the fuel pick-up, pump, gauge sender unit assembly on the rear of the tank. Disconnect the hoses, unplug the power lead in the trunk and unscrew the ground lead in the trunk (the wires into the assembly don't unplug at the unit). Then unscrew the assembly retainer ring from the tank and pull the whole unit out.

Once you get this out of the car, carefully inspect the condition of the filter sock on the pick up end of the pump. If you see any deterioration or holes in this sock, I strongly suggest replacement of both fuel pumps. Also, once you get the assembly out of the tank, I highly recommend replacement of the in-tank pump and filter sock regardless of condition. You may as well, now that you got the old one that far out of the car.

I want to point out that fuel passes through the filter sock, in-tank pump, main fuel pump and main fuel filter, in that order. The filter sock is there to protect the pumps from dirt contamination. The main fuel filter protects the remainder of the fuel injection system from dirt and any debris expelled by a failing fuel pump. The filter sock is the one filter that nobody ever replaces on a routine basis.

The in-tank pump and filter sock cost me $50. The main fuel pump cost me $125. I put both in myself. Each pump took me about 4 hours of time each to replace, since this was the first time for me for each part. If you do this yourself, disconnect the fuel lines from the tank before removing the main fuel pump, to prevent the fuel from siphoning out of the tank. Work in a well ventilated area, free of ignition sources.

Let us know if you have any questions or comments.

BARRYALLEN50 · Post by **BARRYALLEN50** » 14 Oct 2007, 21:40

WOW THANKS A BUNCH IF THE FUSE IS NOT BLOWN CAN IT STILL BE THE PUMP. OR MAYBE JUST THE OUTER PUMP. THANKS

Kmaniac in California USA · Post by **Kmaniac in California USA** » 15 Oct 2007, 08:13

Your first post say that you "need to replace the fuel pumps". My question to you is, "What leads you to believe your fuel pumps are bad?" For example, what results from what diagnostic procedure indicate bad fuel pumps? Or is your car exhibiting some unusual condition that MAY mimic a bad fuel pump or something else? Please share this information with us first before you turn a wrench.

BARRYALLEN50 · Post by **BARRYALLEN50** » 15 Oct 2007, 09:13

WELL THE CAR FIRST OF ALL RUNS GREAT. DID A GOOD TUNE UP. HOWEVER THE FUEL SEEMS TO JUST CUT OFF. STOPS DEAD. RE-STARTS THEN DRIVE FOR A LITTLE WHILE AND IT STOPS AGAIN. I DONT LOOSE ELECTRICAL. IT ACTS LIKE IT GET NO GAS. SOMETIMES VERY HARD TO RESTART OTHER TIME STARTS RIGHT UP. REPLACE THE FUEL PUMP RELAY. THAT WAS NOT IT. CHECKED COIL NOT IT. REPLACE PLUGS, WIRES, ECT THAT NOT IT. I HAVE QUIT DRIVING IT. HAD TO BORROW A CAR TO GET TO WORK. IT USUALLY DOES THIS WHEN IT GETS WARM . NO DASH IDIOT LIGHTS COME ON. THANKS FOR ALL YOUR HELP

Kmaniac in California USA · Post by **Kmaniac in California USA** » 15 Oct 2007, 13:56

Thanks for the quick reply. Based on what you said, I think you're on the right track. Try driving it again and here is a trick you can try to help confirm the bad fuel pump theory. Carry with you a blunt object, like a rock that fits in the palm of your hand. The next time the car fails to start, take that object and tap the case of the main fuel pump a few times (the one under the driver's seat). If it starts right away after that, definitely time for BOTH new fuel pumps.

Anyway, keep us posted on the progress.

wojeepster · Post by **wojeepster** » 15 Oct 2007, 15:40

Sounds like it could also be the fuel pump relay. On your car it is located behind the ashtray. Large white relay second row near drivers knee. When problem occurs tap relay with finger then see if it starts, it is now starts replace relay. This is a common problem.

BARRYALLEN50 · Post by **BARRYALLEN50** » 15 Oct 2007, 15:54

thanks already replaced the fuel pump relay. not it