Bringing her out of the Mothballs

Post by **ZionXIX** » 18 May 2018, 17:41

erikv11 wrote: ↑18 May 2018, 16:54 You can "cheat" the cam sprockets 1/8 of a turn clockwise to keep the belt tight on the right side, then put the belt over the water pump last as suggested.

You kind of lost me there, should it be CCW?. If I can get a partial tooth onto the water pump I might be able to turn it over and roll the belt onto the water pump.

Post by **erikv11** » 19 May 2018, 08:04

The idea is you may be a tooth short when you get to the water pump, because the belt is not actually tight on the right side of the path. So to make sure that is not the case: Start with the belt seated under the crank, pull it tight up the right side to the intake cam. Keeping the belt tight, if you can't get it over the sprocket (which is common), then cheat the sprocket CW just a bit, less than a tooth. That's a mistake in my post - should say 1/8 of a tooth, not 1/8 of a turn. Do the same on the exhaust cam.

When the belt is really hard to get on, often it is because it is not actually seated under the crank. That little nub under there is a PITA.

I would never crank the engine to seat the belt. Turn the crank with a socket maybe, but not with the starter. But it shouldn't be needed. Just to make sure, you didn't yet release the tensioner pin, right?

Post by **ZionXIX** » 19 May 2018, 16:46

erikv11 wrote: ↑19 May 2018, 08:04 The idea is you may be a tooth short when you get to the water pump, because the belt is not actually tight on the right side of the path. So to make sure that is not the case: Start with the belt seated under the crank, pull it tight up the right side to the intake cam. Keeping the belt tight, if you can't get it over the sprocket (which is common), then cheat the sprocket CW just a bit, less than a tooth. That's a mistake in my post - should say 1/8 of a tooth, not 1/8 of a turn. Do the same on the exhaust cam.

When the belt is really hard to get on, often it is because it is not actually seated under the crank. That little nub under there is a PITA.

I would never crank the engine to seat the belt. Turn the crank with a socket maybe, but not with the starter. But it shouldn't be needed. Just to make sure, you didn't yet release the tensioner pin, right?

That makes more sense. I would also never crank the engine at this time. I was referring to rotating the crank shaft with a socket CCW 1 tooth then pulling the belt and turning the crank shaft CW 1 tooth ti take up the slack while remaining on time.

Post by **ZionXIX** » 19 May 2018, 22:15

Success! Definitely an involved job but doable. That perfect crank and startup on the first try was beautiful to hear. I must admit as bad as the belts were, I had more trouble with the crank gear cover plate than anything else. I found that zip tying the belt to the cam gears and turning the crank 1 tooth CW gave me just enough slack to slip the belt over the water pump. Now onto fuel tank vent hoses.

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Post by **ZionXIX** » 25 May 2018, 22:06

Looking to take advantage of the picknpull sale tomorrow. Got a couple of questions. Will an 850 hood fit in a wagon? Will the picknpull take parts as trade or credit? What do you guys do with damaged panels after replacing?

Post by **scot850** » 25 May 2018, 23:20

A Hood might fit diagonally. Measure your current hood both for length and wide and then measure diagonally across the load area hatch and see if it will fit in there. Remember to allow for the grille section.

Don't know about US pick and pulls, but the ones here in Calgary only take parts back they sold you and only within 30 days for in store credit. They usually take scrap parts but they usually only got to the crusher.

Neil.

Post by **ZionXIX** » 27 May 2018, 08:53

I decided to change out the vent hoses on the gas tank this morning. Got the tank dropped and hoses changed but I can't seem to get the tank bolt back in place. Am I doing something wrong? I'm using a floor Jack with a 2x4 on pushing upwards while avoiding the straps and trying not to deform the tank. I am unable to get the straps that last inch or so to the bolt holes.

Post by **erikv11** » 27 May 2018, 09:52

I've dropped the tank a few times and all I can say is it can be fiddly, but when you get it aligned properly and ensure there is nothing on top getting pinched, you will be able to get the straps hooked up pretty easily. Sorry I can't be more more specific other than to agree that yeah, it can be a hassle.

Post by **ZionXIX** » 29 May 2018, 05:09

Finally got to take her on a long overdue roadtrip. She went 300miles without breaking a sweat.

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Post by **rguzz** » 29 May 2018, 11:15

I now drive mine everywhere with minimal concerns, multiple 1000mile trips, etc. Thinking about replacing the alternator, summer will add stress, it is original, realizing even the Bosch rebuilds will be less good than what came in the car. Also, never been in the oil pan and done the seals there, and gas tank hoses are original. I plan on tinkering with a few remaining items, and continuing to drive it for a long time yet. But lots done, wheel bearings, susp, eng mounts, all cooling, ac, valve job and HG, trans flushes, oil cooler lines, TB and WP, PCV, multiple sensors, and wire harnesses, fuel pump, the usual well known very long list required for peace of mind. Way more $$$ and time than car is worth, of course. Doubt I'd do it again with another. But feeling very confidant especially around items that can fail and leave you stranded. Continue the long trips until you feel comfortable especially in the TX heat. Great feeling once you get there. Took me a while.

Bringing her out of the Mothballs

Re: Bringing her out of the Mothballs