98 S70, N/A Control Arm (Ball Joint) installation question

[chrafael]

Abscate is right. This is classic toe out problem. Safe bet your mechanic tried to string line the front and rear wheels not realizing the rear is a fraction of an inch narrower. This leads to what you see. I would be more concerned about any possible slack in the pinch bolts/spindle ears. If it wallows out too much it may pull through. At the very least recheck your torque on the bolts. It may surprise you.

[Roger_850T]

I agree...

1. Your ball joints look correct. I looked at the amount of stem protruding from the top. I am used to them being fully seated at this point though, so I'm not sure how you could have got them in any more. However, the groove in the stem will interlock with the bolt when installed, so it's either correct, or it's out 1/2" or so, which yours clearly is not, so I think you're fine.

2. It looks like a toe out problem. (I did exactly this on a 264, had to take a trip before I could get it aligned, did it by eyeball, and destroyed 2 tires in 500 miles.)

3. It also looks like you replaced a CV boot between the pictures. If you disassembled where the steering knuckle attaches to the strut, then that can also change the alignment and require a readjustment. (It depends how closely to the same spot you are able to reassemble.)

Hope this helps!

[polskamafia mjl]

Abscate is right. This is classic toe out problem.

How does toe cause that kind of wear? And if that's the case what would one expect to see from out of spec camber?

[abscate]

Too much toe tilts the wheel under power and scrubs the inside ( toe out) or inside ( toe in).

Bad camber can also cause this but it will be on one wheel, and handling will be really fubar

[theWIFES_S70]

Thanks for the insight guys! Glad to know I didn't do anything wrong here. Will take her to get aligned and to get some new front tires and I hope not to touch her till next summer.

Oh wait, still have to repair that rear brake cable thing...

[abscate]

Old thread alert

Torque spec is 50 Nm or 35 ft lbs per Alldata, with new hardware

I would be comfortable using old hardware this if you clean and inspect, check the diamater of the shank for wear, punch mark the nut and do the daily- weekly-monthly inspection routine...check daily for one week, then weekly for a month, then monthly for three months. At that point you can be confident the bolt is staying put.

I ran a grade 8.8 bolt on one of my ball joints this way. It had slightly excess threads so I had to make sure it cleared everything

I’ll measure my old bolt dimensions and post here. Local Volvo place would not sell me one, but you can order from LIsle and maybe FCP ?