lower control arm and ball joint replacement

kylecallahan · Post by **kylecallahan** » 26 Nov 2016, 16:22

Had terrible LCA bushings on my '01 S60. Removed and replaced diver's side with new LCA and ball joint - no issues really. On passenger side, once the tie rod nut is removed and the tie rod is disengaged from the steering knuckle, the hub wants to swing hard to the left or right from pressure seeming to come from the strut. On the driver's side, the hub just hung in whatever position i left it in. So, I stopped. I'm asking if anyone has seen this? I am speculating, but I wonder if having only one wheel at a time off the ground may result in too much pressure on the sway bar - which being attached to the strut, causes the hub to want to displace? I did not complete the job, as I wasn't convinced I'd be able to reassemble after disconnecting the knuckle. If you have some similar experience or advice - would surely appreciate feedback.

Post by **oragex** » 27 Nov 2016, 07:55

I have this too, exactly on pass side, the torsion bar seems to be putting more 'tension' on the strut (I have to use a pry bar to bring the upper end link bolt at it's place on the strut ). Maybe try lifting the other wheel. Loosening the upper end link bolt is a major trouble (seized)

Be aware that many aftermarket control arm or ball joint have very short life span - couple of months

Post by **shiloh51933** » 27 Nov 2016, 09:39

You have to remember that you have a loaded strut attached to the knuckles that is designed to move in both directions when the tie rods push/pull them. So when you disconnect the tie rod ends you have nothing help hold them in place. I'm sure that everything is fine and if you need, a large pry bar could be used to help align the knuckle to reinstall everything.

I'm in agreement with Oragex concerning factory suspension/steering replacement parts. I tried aftermarket LCA's/ Hub bearing assemblies/ball joints/bushings/drive axles and motor mounts to save money and have almost always had to replace cheap parts not long after. FCP actually removed a set of LCA's I had purchased for a 1998 V70XC off there website after I had to return them due to failing bushings they came with. I maybe got a month out of them before both side's failed due to cheap bushings. I usually search for the OEM that makes the parts for Volvo and see if I can get it directly in there packaging box before the parts gets marked up in price. I'll get OE if nothing is available that is equal or better, as long as I can afford to buy it.

Tonyx · Post by **Tonyx** » 28 Nov 2016, 07:35

The anti-roll bar is twisted when you have only one wheel in the air. So it imparts strong 'pull' onto the other side. Raise both wheels off the ground and you should have very little twist forces while replacing LCA.

And I agree with others, stay with OEM bushings or make sure it's Lemforder bushing. I've done my share of LCA replacementS to know.

Post by **mrbrian200** » 28 Nov 2016, 23:34

Tonyx wrote:And I agree with others, stay with OEM bushings or make sure it's Lemforder bushing. I've done my share of LCA replacementS to know.

I concur. I tried aftermarket "HD" LCAs (LCA looks identical, different bushes). Front rubber bush on those is nearly solid with too much reaction torque results in transfer of stress onto the rear LCA bush causing trouble back there and unstable handling over bumpy/uneven pavement. OE design is a little less responsive + sloppy than it really should be but unless you're in the mood to start experimenting/engineering your best bet is to stick with OE/Lemforder.

neworleans · Post by **neworleans** » 01 Dec 2016, 07:37

Hi all,

I am also replacing the LCA's on my 07 S60R. Does anybody know what the torque specs are for the vertical one and the two horizontal ones? I got the bolts new as recommended due to being TTY type of bolts.

Post by **oragex** » 01 Dec 2016, 12:04

It's good to replace these bolts with new ones. One of mine was so corroded, it had half the section left. I remember the horizontal bolts on my 2003 are not the same length for both sides of the car. Also, it was tricky on drivers side, I had to lift the engine quite a bit to clear the bolt head. To easily install the new LCA I recommend disconnecting the lower strut bolts, and the axle bolt (so as to prevent the axle from stretching) and support the axle with a wire. I also removed the ball joint rod instead of the Tie rod end bolt.

this may help http://forums.swedespeed.com/showthread ... orque-spec

Tonyx · Post by **Tonyx** » 02 Dec 2016, 08:31

I think I posted this info somewhere but repeated here for convenience.
When replacing lower ball joint, there is an easier method. Disconnect the ball joint from LCA and push LCA off to side(or remove all together if you are replacing it anyway). With the ball joint directly accessible, use slide hammer with adapter that fits the stud of ball joint and use that to pull it down and out of car. This requires you to raise front of vehicle high enough to fit a sliding hammer but it is so much easier and faster than taking the knuckle off. Just sharing my experience.