No Sparks... No Idea what to do... Topic is solved

shihabafi · Post by **shihabafi** » 08 Jul 2018, 11:37

Hey guys, so I have a 1995 Volvo 850 Wagon (non-turbo), and recently I decided to replace my PCV System. Simple, right? So I replaced it, and during the process I accidentally broke the plastic intake "tree." So we ran to the junkyard and grabbed a new one and put it in and the car turned on perfectly... for the rest of that day.

The next day, it took much longer to start, it would crank for a few seconds and eventually start. So I decided I'd redo the PCV job, because I must've messed something up. So I did it again, and found nothing. So I asked some of my mechanic friends to come and take a look (I'm just a broke teenager), and they told me I'm not getting sparks, noting that my under-3,000 mile spark plugs were burnt to a crisp. They said it could be the ignition coil, seeing as I had just recently replaced my distributor rotor and cap (bought it from FCP).

So we got a new ignition coil from the junkyard, and nothing changed. If anything, now it doesn't even want to start at all. So then we thought it was the Camshaft Position Sensor, so we replaced that, and still got nothing. At this point I'm at a complete loss and no idea what to do.

As everyone else commonly says, "help!"

Just a kid who didn't think depression was real until his Volvo broke, -Shihab

Post by **rspi** » 08 Jul 2018, 12:25

shihabafi · Post by **shihabafi** » 08 Jul 2018, 12:39

No help. I checked the crankshaft position sensor, that's good. And I'm getting 12.5v out of my ignition coil...

But still no sparks!

Post by **RickHaleParker** » 08 Jul 2018, 15:35

And I'm getting 12.5v out of my ignition coil...

12.5V is the input to the ignition coil. The output from the coil is the big wire going to the distributor cap. Don't probe that wire with a Voltmeter, it is thousands of volts. Use a Spark tester or a Timing light to determine if the coil is firing.

A ignition coil is charged by passing current through the primary (12V side), this creates a electromagnetic field. The coil is discharged (fired) by interrupting the primary ground and cutting off the primary current. The collapsing magnetic field induces the high voltage "spark" in the secondary... the instructions to fire are on the ground side of the primary.

Remove the distributor cap and make sure it is dry on the inside. Make sure the rotor is set correctly. Check the rotor and cap for cracks and burns. If your plugs where running hot, your new cap and rotor maybe damaged also.

Are you 100% sure you put the correct plugs in?

shihabafi · Post by **shihabafi** » 08 Jul 2018, 15:57

I tested to see if it was firing by unplugging the end of that wire (the end that goes into the distributor) and placed it next to a ground while I cranked it. I got sparks. I even (eventually, somehow) managed to get it up and running... for a few seconds. Afterwards it slowly rumbled itself to a stop. I know that it would stop itself if there was a massive air leak, but I just don't see one anywhere...

I have pictures of the engine bay if anyone would like to take a look at it...

Kids born in the 90's have attitude issues, I think we all know that! :'(

Post by **RickHaleParker** » 08 Jul 2018, 16:04

At anytime did you loosen the bolt to the distributor?
You got a code scanner?

shihabafi · Post by **shihabafi** » 08 Jul 2018, 19:55

I took apart my distributor cap and rotor, threw the old one back on, tried cranking, then put the new one back on...

I have one of those cheap ones off of Amazon, it gave me the codes P0705 (Transmission Range Sensor) and P0120 (Throttle Position Sensor). I heard that could possibly be it, but the odd thing about it for me is that I've had this code for some time now (like a year or so...), and I've never had this car go this bad on me before.

I'm asking around to see if anyone I know has a bit more of a "professional" one. That way I might be able to get a real-time reading hopefully...

MDK · Post by **MDK** » 08 Jul 2018, 20:25

MDK here...so.. I've read all your posts. I know for a fact that if you have a bad MAF SENSOR.... that stupid 850 will not start. Last year some one gave me a 98 V70 that Bob Sumeral said needed 2000$ worth of repairs. Apparently the man was driving down the freeway and it just stopped running. He gave it to me... I went to the junkyard and bought a used MAF Sensor for 10$ .. installed it and it started up with some hesitancy. After a few start and stop cycles.... end of problem. Just throwing it out there....MDK rolling on

Post by **erikv11** » 08 Jul 2018, 22:15

MAF is probably the easiest to test under the P80 hood: to test the MAF, just unplug it before starting the car. If the car fires up and runs, the MAF was your problem. If not, you didn't find it yet keep looking. Don't unplug/plug the MAF with the car running, shut it off first.

Of course, this will set a MAF code, just reset it.

shihabafi · Post by **shihabafi** » 09 Jul 2018, 04:30

It can't be the MAF. I've tried it plugged, unplugged, upside down, you name it. I highly doubt that it's the MAF...