All started when engine probably overheated due to a faulty temperature sensor.
Get a loud squeeling sound off the engine block when engine is hot and running for about 20 minutes.
When cold runs well without any noise.
Funny enough was able to replicate the squeeling sound and the overheating but no ECU codes were found.
So these are the checks I have already done.
Replaced Thermostat + temperature sensor + flushed coolant. Coolant was clean before replacing,.
Replaced power steering pump
Replaced idler + serpentine belt.
Checked the harmonic sensor - no slip. Still have the new spare in a box.
Have checked for any shake in the pulleys , all look good.
No error codes on the ecu..
Starts nicely when cold. Then the squeeling begins after driving 10 mins or idling for 20 mins.
Heated up the fan comes ON around 105 - 110 deg and cools down to 90.
Anyone out there who could tell me what it could be. My guess is a bearing in the engine block.
Volvo dealer tells me they will run a diagnostic as standard for 2 hours and charge me 250$ + 150$/hr thereafter until they find the problem. This is even before they try to fix anything. I dont want to spend that much money on a 17 yr old car.
I cant attach an mp3 or mp4 file of the recorded sound here.
Squeeling sound of engine s60 2003 Topic is solved
- regent
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Is it squealing or whistling, I would do the 'glove test' to rule out PCV.
Have you looked at the oil?
Have you looked at the oil?
Example of Precision: Measure with a Micrometer, mark it with Chalk, and then cut it with an Axe.
Disclaimer: We (very) seldom do that
2015 BMW 335i
2015 XC60 T5 Premier Plus
2002 S60 2.4 n/a - retired
1987 340 DL - retired
Disclaimer: We (very) seldom do that
2015 BMW 335i
2015 XC60 T5 Premier Plus
2002 S60 2.4 n/a - retired
1987 340 DL - retired
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jimmy57
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Does the squeal stop if dipstick is pulled out?
That engine is most markets has a modified crankcase vent system with a crankcase pressure regulator on the breather box. The diaphragm on that box ruptures and that puts vacuum in crankcase. Then the seals for cams and other places makes the noise as air is drawn into them.
Pulling dipstick breaks the vacuum and the noise will go away if the diaphragm is ruptured.
That engine is most markets has a modified crankcase vent system with a crankcase pressure regulator on the breather box. The diaphragm on that box ruptures and that puts vacuum in crankcase. Then the seals for cams and other places makes the noise as air is drawn into them.
Pulling dipstick breaks the vacuum and the noise will go away if the diaphragm is ruptured.
Read up on the PCV systems . Will check as soon as I get home. Thanks.jimmy57 wrote: ↑21 May 2018, 15:59 Does the squeal stop if dipstick is pulled out?
That engine is most markets has a modified crankcase vent system with a crankcase pressure regulator on the breather box. The diaphragm on that box ruptures and that puts vacuum in crankcase. Then the seals for cams and other places makes the noise as air is drawn into them.
Pulling dipstick breaks the vacuum and the noise will go away if the diaphragm is ruptured.
Thanks Guys,
It was definitely the PCV system that was clogged. Did the glove test. Also the squeal disappeared if the filler cap was opened. Replaced the PCV breather assembly and everything is smooth again. On to my next project now. Cracked fuel pump flange.
It was definitely the PCV system that was clogged. Did the glove test. Also the squeal disappeared if the filler cap was opened. Replaced the PCV breather assembly and everything is smooth again. On to my next project now. Cracked fuel pump flange.
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