2008 XC90 V8 AC problems

[shaneb]

On the oil, is there a trick to knowing how much needs to be put back in? Does it run out of the compressor when the valve is removed such that I can measure it?

[jimmy57]

You will lose some from draining and from pulling the valve out. Probably 1 ounce. The small oil charge cans have 2 ounce and that would not be a bad thing at all if it has 1 ounce extra when you are done. There are two other ways to get oil in when there isn't a part replaced that you add the oil to.: 1. oil injector vessel that goes in hose or 2. pull vacuum for a few minutes, shut service valves, use feeder hose(center connected yellow hose to vac pump and then refrig container) and pour the oil into hose end with service valve cracked open to draw oil in. Then let the vacuum draw after you've finished the oil to assure it clears the hose. Then connect everything as normal and vacuum for the normal time.

[ggleavitt]

Old thread from another site- https://forums.swedespeed.com/showthrea ... e-readings

[shaneb]

I just pulled the valve.

My new valve has what looks to be a filter on the end, but the one that i pullede does not.

Do you think this piece is stuck inside the compressor? It doesn't appear tobe the case, at the end of the valves hole, there is metal, not black plastic or otherwise.

Maybe it flew off in removal, or it was never there back in '08?
I have attached an image

[ggleavitt]

Subpost #7 in the link I noted, you'll see that the guy who wrote it noticed exactly the same thing. New with filter, Old without. He suggested it's a re-design, I have no reason to think otherwise.

[jimmy57]

They added the filters as a running change. It will fix the issue of swarf from manufacture giving a stuck valve early on but it does not address bore wear that occurs years and a 100K miles later. CVVT solenoids got filters either in gasket or on the valve for the same reasons.

[shaneb]

Thank you!!!! That eases concerns!
My only concern now is the contamination that may have gotten inside the valves hole.
The whole compressor and underside is filthy/oily. Getting out the large o-ring was a project.
Is there an appropriate thing I can use to flush the hole out or just wipe with a microfiber or towel?
FWIW I am talking minimal greasy smudges or specks. Not filled it with dirt

[shaneb]

Got it all replaced, did the best I could to dry towel the hole.
On the vacuum pump now

[shaneb]

DONE!

After I finished filling it with just over 36 OZ as it is a V8 w/Rear Air which calls for 2.31LB or 36.9oz, the pressures went to an obviously correct place!
35ish Low and 150ish Hi - Current ambient is about 75 and just stopped raining, so very high humidity - 95%.
And...discharge air temperate was at 43-45 almost immediately at starting, engine at IDLE.

I'M SO GLAD! My wife will be too!

Very interested to see my pressures at 100 degree ambient now. I will follow up with those.

Post Mortem- After realizing that 36OZ is not that much, I am left to wonder what would be the case if I just evac'd it and refilled by weight. I suspect the results would have been better than what I had, but I have little doubt the valve was problematic!
This project took quite a while. there is another thread where others have shared their tips, I will share here and do the same in that thread so the next "me" can just go for it. Pics will come later.
Tools: Socket set w/ 10mm,12mm,13mm and extension (4 inches?)
Snap ring pliers - used the straight pair out of this kit https://www.amazon.com/Astro-94220-Pneu ... +set&psc=1 Someone else recommended an extended pair from amazon - those may have been better! But even with fat hands these worked OK
Various flat head/phillips head screw drivers used
A lot of paper towels. This whole area is filthy with oil - that'll be the next fun project.
Nitrile gloves - like 5 pairs after all the mess.


1. Remove metal skid plate - I realize that there should be six bolts total. But it wasn't apparent that the bolt that is mounted through the frame to the top of the skid plate brackets was part of it. I spent a lot of time searching for the third bolt on each side and couldn't even track down the diagram in VIDA. The bolt which requires your wrench to pass through the hole on the two brackets, a few inches from the two obvious bolts - is required for removal.
2. After dropping some parts at various times, It is helpful to drop the front portion of the plastic skid plate. This aids in your light hitting the compressor well without impeding your view at some points. I highly recommend using a light that isn't a flashlight or head lamp. I have those cheap metal foil work lamps from like wal mart which a regular screw in lamp.
3. Snap ring - the snap ring has to be squeezed together. Make the circle smaller. This was unclear to me based on someone else' comments and I spent a great deal of time trying to spread it....
4. Electrical connections. The screw is not super easy to get back on. Note the other cable under there rests over the screw hole before screwing the metal clip on from the valve's pig tail. Put all these together, try to get it over the hole and find a screwdriver you can maneuver that the handle isn't too fat. A 8" control size screw driver or a short thin handled one would have been nice.
5. The valve - My system had a vacuum on it because I wanted to test for leaks before I did all this. This made the valve a bit harder to pull. I eventually just pulled on the wires very hard and it popped out. I have no doubt having a vacuum on it made it worse because it obviously had to pull in all that air. I vacuumed again for a very long time
6. The large O-Ring that is seated inside the hole that the valve goes into - this took forever for me. I tried tiny phillips heads that are used for iPhone size screws, I tried every weird tool in a nail/vanity kit and eventually I ended up using a pocket knife that was about 6 inches long when open, get the right angle and dig it out. This was not graceful. Need something about 3 inches long or 8 inches long that will be tiny enough at the end to grab that o-ring and pry it out. Good luck.
7. Seating the new O-Ring - it wasn't easy but sure seemed that way after all the drama described above. Shove it in the hole and use your finger to pull it out in a way that makes it seat itself. No tools used here for me.
8. New valve seating - first put the O Rings on that came with it. Make sure when pushing it in, it is deep enough to get the snap ring back on.
9. New snap ring - sucks but you basically have to just get it in there. Snap pliers and a big flat head is how I did it. Use the pliers to get close then push with the flat head to pop it off the pliers at just the right place. Maybe others are smarter than me and its easy.

I did NOT replace the drier. All of this was very time consuming with usual daily distractions. I would have liked to but for now the system is working, I ran the vacuum on it for very long and tested against leaks. I will be sending the drier back and if I feel like it (how do you even know?) I can do it later now that I'm more comfortable around the AC stuff.

[clab04]

Thanks for this post! This is exactly what I thought the issue was and your symptoms match mine exactly. So has anyone tried doing away with this all together so the compressor runs 100%. I suppose you would need a block off or modify the valve in such a way that it is open all the time. Good news is the 6cyl has the compressor right up top. I did a shim job on my 5cyl and it was a pain.