What engine will fit in my 96 850 turbo

drjurman · Post by **drjurman** » 15 Aug 2018, 22:39

Dont know where to start so I'm predicting the worst and hoping for the best.
Got a 96 850 turbo Platinum for a great price. Did the usual stuff for a car with 265k on the clock.
Tune up, oil change, had to do front struts assys, and rear shocks. Not a leak on the engine, not a spot on the driveway.
Car drove well, and kicked butt compared to my 98 AWD wagon.
Coming home from a trip to RI at 65 mph on RT 84 in CT, the low coolant idiot light came on, gage stayed perfect.
In the middle of the road the engine shut down (a real treat at speed in the left lane) got the car to the breakdown lane.
Popped the hood and the engine compartment was covered in coolant and oil. Engine spins but wont kick. Thank God for AAA. Towed home and dropped in the drive.
Tried filling the coolant tank and the coolant runs out of the back side of the engine, oil level is fine.
I'm thinking worst case cracked block, best case blown head. (neither are good) trying to find a short block for this car is impossible. Used is tough too. Paying $5K for a Volvo crate engine is a no go. Will any other B5234t block work, or a B5254t.
Any ideas, or similar experiences?
I'm having a difficult time thinking a blown hose or something.
David

Post by **Clemens** » 15 Aug 2018, 23:39

There is the turbo coolant hose hidden under the turbo heat shield. Hard to see, really bad if it blows.
The temp gauge is useless as soon as the water is gone. I think you have around 10 to 20 seconds after the no coolant light comes on before the engine is toast.

Basically every B5234 will work. B5254 should drop in, but you might have to fiddle with the motor management or get a new tune. Others have done that before, i'm sure someone will chime in.

Post by **erikv11** » 16 Aug 2018, 00:33

Yes, any 2.3 T or a 2.5 T will work just fine with your 15g turbo and factory ECU. Some people actually prefer to get the 2.5 (LPT engine) in this situation, for the higher compression ratio. There should be some of those available in your area (steal the 2.5 from your V70!).

Try car-part.com, Erie VoVo is a little farther.

95-98 engines are the most straightforward, or some people are now putting in RN engines (from the P2 turbo cars) but that's only if you are interested/willing to do some modifications. Main differences are oil cooler, turbo coolant lines, converting the VVT and coil on plugs from the donor engine.

Post by **Clemens** » 16 Aug 2018, 06:12

VA5T Tuning has a coil pack upgrade for M4.4.

I wouldn't try starting the motor again as long as the coolant poors out of it . But still strange that the motor won't fire up.

Even if the block was cracked or the head gasket blew, there should ve some cylinders still having compression.

davidrjurman · Post by **davidrjurman** » 16 Aug 2018, 06:28

Clemens wrote: ↑15 Aug 2018, 23:39 There is the turbo coolant hose hidden under the turbo heat shield. Hard to see, really bad if it blows.
The temp gauge is useless as soon as the water is gone. I think you have around 10 to 20 seconds after the no coolant light comes on before the engine is toast.

Yes 10 to 20 seconds was about it until the dash lit up like a Christmas Tree and shut down.
When you say "Toast" Does that mean scrap, or can be rebuilt?

Post by **erikv11** » 16 Aug 2018, 07:56

Clemens wrote: ↑16 Aug 2018, 06:12 VA5T Tuning has a coil pack upgrade for M4.4. ...

Yep, you can either go to coil packs on 4.4, or put a distributor on the RN engine. The tweaks to installing a newer engine have been completely worked out, you just have to do more homework and make some modifications if you go that route.