Is a used Volvo 850 a good choice?

volvoaddict007 · Post by **volvoaddict007** » 19 Oct 2007, 07:54

Maxbaby wrote:So being that my 850 is my first and only Volvo, do our intrepid commentators in this post feel that the rear wheel drive 7 and 9 series is a better way to go?... Just curious.

Definetely the 7 and 9 series are more dependable as a whole. Just go to that section of this Forum and look at the comparable lack of activity. If I was just looking for dependability, probably a Honda Accord, although I would probably die from boredom. I guess that would mean they're not all that safe...

The rear wheel drive is a lot less scary repair wise as well. Not crazy about the yaw on the 850 when spinning the tires. But just a minor complaint on a car that I love to drive.

va007

DieselDoNicely · Post by **DieselDoNicely** » 19 Oct 2007, 14:53

jtp wrote:Ya, if you're not going to try and do some stuff yourself I can see going for a Japanese car, although the most reliable car I've ever owned has been an 89 Oldsmobile cutlass ciera. Having a kid in the backseat also probably has a lot to do with why I think volvos are worth the trouble. I'm definitely going for an 850 wagon when I can afford to dump the olds.

You have just hit the nail on the head for buying a Volvo, safety. I once read of a Saab 9000 having a side impact from a locomotive on a level crossing and the driver walked away. The comment was they thought Saab had a buyer for life after that. Volvo is similar, I drive 800 miles a week around the UK and our road network is compact and choked. Ive had two vehicles ram me up the rear after I stopped quick...they didnt. The one was a write off, the car that went into the back of that, a BMW 5 series was crumpled half way up the hood. My 850 needed a new rear fender, thats all.

As I tell my work mates who drive small cars, when your in a multi vehicle smash on the motorway in your fault free Nissan Micra, you foot is stuck under the peddles and the car has just caught fire, my guess you would mortgage the kids to have been in a Volvo.

DDN

outwest · Post by **outwest** » 25 Oct 2007, 15:20

I'm also thinking about buying an 850--a 1995 sedan with 130,000 miles on it, hopefully for about $2,500 (US). I'm attracted to the car's safety, styling, and potential longevity, but I'm concerned about the maintenance costs. Is it risky to expect the thing to run well with this many miles on it? Any estimates on how much I should expect to spend/year on maintenance?

Post by **jtp** » 25 Oct 2007, 15:36

I've only had a Volvo for a couple of months but I had the same questions and my research led me to conclude that it would be manageable if 1)There were no major volvo-specific problems with the car when I bought it and 2) I did regular maintenance myself.
The two big Volvo specific problems I'm aware of for our cars are rear main oil leaks and the ac evaporator going out. Make sure the car has no oil leaking and make sure the ac works. Check the service records to see if the air cabin filter got changed every 20,000 miles like it should have and you should be ok on the ac evap. Regular maintenance stuff can be learned from hanging around this website. If it doesn't have service records don't buy it. And there better have been a timing belt change on that car already, find out when because you might need another around 140k depending on when they changed it.

volvoaddict007 · Post by **volvoaddict007** » 25 Oct 2007, 17:03

Definitely a good point jtp makes about no records but it wouldn't necessarily keep me from buying this car unless there were others available that had them for the same or a little more money.

If safety is #1 then outwest is on the right track. These 850s get terrific gas mileage as well while driving a 'luxury' car. If it is a Turbo then it is 'sport/luxury'. These cars were about $33k new. For $2500 there may be a few other 850s in your area. Outwest, can you tell us if you live in a large metro area. This would be helpful with this car as to more accessability to mechanics, used parts etc. and do you do any of your own maintenance?

This 850 is relatively low mileage and reasonably priced if it is in good condition. If there were no records though I would plan on an immediate timing belt change ( about $200-$350 by a mechanic ).

The cabin filters were after market and if it doesn't have one and no records of replacing that evap then that is $1300+/- that could be happening.

I would be most concerned with compression and a properly operating transmission w/ clean fluid. Replacement of either of these items is about $3k ( used motor or rebuilt tranny ) If I didn't work on my own cars I would have it checked out by a mechanic after I ran a Carfax to verify the mileage...

va007

outwest · Post by **outwest** » 25 Oct 2007, 17:47

Thanks for the replies--very helpful.
There are no maintenance records for the car which does make me skeptical. Would a mechanic be able to inspect the transmission to determine how much it has left, or are tranny failures more unpredictable than that?
I live in a metro area of 2 million, so access to mechanics wouldn't be a problem (and Volvos seem to be popular in the area, so I imagine parts would be available). I don't do much of my own maintenance, though I did on a former car and am curious to learn.
A '94 model with 120,000 is also available for ~$3,000 (US), and the Carfax seems to reflect regular maintenance.
How many city miles can a well-maintained 850 endure?

Post by **MadeInJapan** » 25 Oct 2007, 18:13

Just on a whim, call your local Volvo dealer and give them the VIN# of your car. Although there are no records, Volvo keeps a database up. If it was ever repaired at a Volvo dealer (ie: timing belt changed) they should have records....hopefully they'll be willing to tell you even if you don't yet own the car.

Post by **JRL** » 25 Oct 2007, 20:20

MadeInJapan wrote:Just on a whim, call your local Volvo dealer and give them the VIN# of your car. Although there are no records, Volvo keeps a database up. If it was ever repaired at a Volvo dealer (ie: timing belt changed) they should have records....hopefully they'll be willing to tell you even if you don't yet own the car.

OK, time for me to chime in.

Dave, you should know that Volvo has NO database whatsoever.

The only service records are at whatever dealer did any service on that car and they go no further than that dealership (except WARRANTY and RECALL work) and even thatthat would be waaaaaaay long over by now
and irrelevent

Post by **MadeInJapan** » 25 Oct 2007, 20:58

Thank Jim...this is new news to me. I had read this on other boards too. Good to have it clarified so I don't keep passing on wrong information.

volvoaddict007 · Post by **volvoaddict007** » 25 Oct 2007, 21:26

Did the Carfax come up clean?

I would much prefer a '95 even though it has 10k more miles. Volvo got more kinks out.

Questions for the board: Does the '94 have the self diagnostics? A big plus that I believe was LAST SEEN on the '95 or was ONLY on the '95?

You really have to plan on the timing belt unless you find a record that says it was changed and then 70k is recommended ( by Volvo in the '95 manual ) so it's about ready anyhow for the second. Without a record, it could even be the original...

Have you driven the car? This will tell you alot before even considering further. Basically if it was properly maintained it should still drive almost like new. Check out every possible item youself, A/C, heat, wipers, signals, cruise, mirrors, windows, locks, seats ( I'd actually be surprised if the seat back functions properly ) stereo, lights and make sure that the Check engine light ( and other warning lights ) is functioning but doesn't stay on.

Check for the obvious...does it smoke? Take a friend if you can to drive behind it and keep an eye on the tailpipe. While stopped, put your foot on the brake hard and give it some gas while in the different gears. Listen for strange sounds or the tranny slipping. Of course don't shift while doing this...

Pull off the oil fill cap and take a look inside. If it has been well maintained, the cam and supports etc. should look amberlike brassy and not dark. If there is sludge then definitely walk away unless they want to give you the car. Check the oil, brake fluid, coolant level, trans fluid level and color. With the motor running pull out the oil dipstick to check for blowby pushing out smoke.

Check for oil leaks and look under the car while it is running and warmed up completely to check for leaking fluids. Don't be shocked by what looks like oil all over the bottoms of the floorboards...this is corrosion protection that gets wet looking when the car warms up.

If it helps print this page and take it with you so you are sure not to miss anything...