98 s70 overheating
98 s70 overheating
Hi. I'm having even more issues with my s70 overheating I've takin it In twice with the problem but changing a headgasket a d replacing the hoses hasn't solved the issue. In order to go anywhere I need to put radiator fluid in before I leave maybe I get 22 or 25 miles before I'm overheating and need more fluid in the radiator, sometime it will start to go twords the red then the needle will fall alittle then go up and the down again. Im already paid over 1000 dollars on this stupid radiator issue and I can't spend more where should I focus my attention please.
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You have to find where the coolant is going
Options are in increasing order of sadness
- Simple leak at hose - replace
- Complex leak at hose, only under pressure or after cool down - find, then replace
- Leaking radiator cap
- Leaking heater core - inspect under carpets in front and REAR of car, or pull covers off and inspect heater core for leaks
- internal engine leak from bad head gasket or turbo - coolant goes out tail pipe. Sometimes you can smell the sweet smell from the exhaust. Dont do this long or if kids are watching.
Options are in increasing order of sadness
- Simple leak at hose - replace
- Complex leak at hose, only under pressure or after cool down - find, then replace
- Leaking radiator cap
- Leaking heater core - inspect under carpets in front and REAR of car, or pull covers off and inspect heater core for leaks
- internal engine leak from bad head gasket or turbo - coolant goes out tail pipe. Sometimes you can smell the sweet smell from the exhaust. Dont do this long or if kids are watching.
Empty Nester
A Captain in a Sea of Estrogen
1999-V70-T5M56 2005-V70-M56 1999-S70 VW T4 XC90-in-Red
Link to Maintenance record thread
A Captain in a Sea of Estrogen
1999-V70-T5M56 2005-V70-M56 1999-S70 VW T4 XC90-in-Red
Link to Maintenance record thread
I replaced the radiator cap thinking that was the issue but this new cap it seems it releases pressure time to change it again? Also I forgot to mention the car runs below normal running temp for about half of the 25 mile drive. And if I run the ac the car starts to overheat alot faster
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Thats a lot of symptoms. Was the thermostat changed when you had the radiator work done? Put the invoice up so we can have a look - (Cover up personal info to stop MVS stalkers from New Jersey)
On a properly functioning Volvo, the temp gauge should reach the mid way (3 o'clock ) position in about 3 minutes of driving on either town or freeway/motorway/Thruway/highway/interstate
On a properly functioning Volvo, the temp gauge should reach the mid way (3 o'clock ) position in about 3 minutes of driving on either town or freeway/motorway/Thruway/highway/interstate
Empty Nester
A Captain in a Sea of Estrogen
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A Captain in a Sea of Estrogen
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scot850
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Thermostat sounds like a good probability as suggested above. Also check that the cooling fan is working.
Neil.
Neil.
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2000 V70 R - still being an endless PITA
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I'm trying to locate the invoice my boyfriend seems to have misplaced it! I might try to just go down to the shop and have them print a new one. Im going to check the thermostat is that an easy replacement can i do it myself?
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[youtube][/youtube]
The block tester Robert is referring to.
[youtube][/youtube]
The block tester Robert is referring to.
[youtube][/youtube]
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1998 C70, B5234T3, 16T, AW50-42, Bosch Motronic 4.4, Special Edition package.
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1998 C70, B5234T3, 16T, AW50-42, Bosch Motronic 4.4, Special Edition package.
2003 S40, B4204T3, 14T twin scroll AW55-50/51SN, Siemens EMS 2000.
2004 S60R, B8444S TF80 AWD. Yamaha V8 conversion
2005 XC90 T6 Executive, B6294T, 4T65 AWD, Bosch Motronic 7.0.
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Absolutey a good DIY. You want a Good quality thermostat, not an offbrand. I think Wahler is commonly used without problems, about $12
You will need some tools and have to be careful getting the two bolts out. They often are tight. If you buy two new bolts that is good karma too for next time
Empty Nester
A Captain in a Sea of Estrogen
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Link to Maintenance record thread
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dj_v70
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You need to be very careful with this car or else you are going to need to do the head gasket again. Until you get it fixed, don't let it overheat! I understand that that is easier said than done though.
You really should troubleshoot the issue before starting to replace parts. 95% of overheating issues are thermostat, radiator, radiator fan or leaks externally. Rarely (except after overheating already), you can have internal leaks (ie headgasket).
Let's start with some basic troubleshooting:
Start this test with car warmed up and the overflow tank at the full level. Idle the car parked at home with the hood open and water full. Run car and watch what happens in a period up to an hour (you should know in much less than that).
a) Does the coolant temperature gauge go above half way before the water level changes significantly. If so, squeeze top hose going to radiator almost fully closed. You will feel whether water is rushing through there or not. If not, replace themostat and test again.
b) Does the water in overflow tank go empty before the coolant gauge goes past half way? If that is the case, you have a leak somewhere. If you can't find a puddle on the ground, you have an expensive problem because it is losing water internally.
c) Or does the overflow tank just rise and overflow? If that is the case, you likely have thermostat, radiator, fan issue or worst case (rare) a blockage.
Report back on which one is your issue and we can help you troubleshoot from there.
You really should troubleshoot the issue before starting to replace parts. 95% of overheating issues are thermostat, radiator, radiator fan or leaks externally. Rarely (except after overheating already), you can have internal leaks (ie headgasket).
Let's start with some basic troubleshooting:
Start this test with car warmed up and the overflow tank at the full level. Idle the car parked at home with the hood open and water full. Run car and watch what happens in a period up to an hour (you should know in much less than that).
a) Does the coolant temperature gauge go above half way before the water level changes significantly. If so, squeeze top hose going to radiator almost fully closed. You will feel whether water is rushing through there or not. If not, replace themostat and test again.
b) Does the water in overflow tank go empty before the coolant gauge goes past half way? If that is the case, you have a leak somewhere. If you can't find a puddle on the ground, you have an expensive problem because it is losing water internally.
c) Or does the overflow tank just rise and overflow? If that is the case, you likely have thermostat, radiator, fan issue or worst case (rare) a blockage.
Report back on which one is your issue and we can help you troubleshoot from there.
Ok I am going to do that today yesterday I took the car to auto zone and did a diagnostic test and got back three issues :
P0172: System to rich (bank 1)
P0176: Engine coolant temperature circuit range /performance
P0410: secondary air injection system
The Guy at autozone said I need a new thermostat and thermostat sensor, is this correct? Also does anyone know a good brand reliable for the sensor I can order myself online because all auto zone has is duralast and I don't really care for that brand. Also what tool do I use to get those bolts off to get the thermostat.
P0172: System to rich (bank 1)
P0176: Engine coolant temperature circuit range /performance
P0410: secondary air injection system
The Guy at autozone said I need a new thermostat and thermostat sensor, is this correct? Also does anyone know a good brand reliable for the sensor I can order myself online because all auto zone has is duralast and I don't really care for that brand. Also what tool do I use to get those bolts off to get the thermostat.
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