Diary of a 17 y/o with an 850

[shihabafi]

Thats a wipe up with a paper towel and forget about it.

When my relatives last visited, I spent hours cleaning the trunk until Luminol tested negative.

[shihabafi]

Today we went to the junkyard and ripped out an engine coolant temp sensor, as well as a door lock mechanism, to fix mine which had been broken for oh so long. So I put the "new" one in, and lo and behold, it doesn't work. I think Robert's got a video about fixing the actual solenoid in that, so I might take a look and see what I can do...

Then I went to turn on my car, and it still hesitated (takes 2-3 seconds to catch. Then, if I turn the car off, it will take longer, and longer), and when I turned it off, the fan still spun for a good minute or so.

I drove around for about an hour (running errands and whatnot), and when I came back, still showed that the ECT was bad, and the fan still spun after turning it off.

What now?

[misha]

Now check ECT connector from wiring harness side and check both ECT sensors resistance with a multimeter.

[shihabafi]

Now check ECT connector from wiring harness side and check both ECT sensors resistance with a multimeter.

Should I be looking for all 12 volts?

[misha]

No...you should be looking for a resistance which is depandable of ambient temperature when ect is removed.

[abscate]

Shihab, if you search my maintenamce log for my 1999 you will find a link to the ECT resistance measurements as a function of temperature

You can also search this forum but I always have trouble finding them.

Try search on. 9186846 , the part number for the ECT

[matthew1]

Found it Engine coolant temperature sensor resistance chart for P80 and P2

[shihabafi]

viewtopic.php?f=1&t=86478

[shihabafi]

Right okay... sooooooooo my car has been fixing itself...? I thought I was going crazy, but no... It's really happening.

It started with the door lock mechanism. Both my rear door lock mechanisms failed so I've been driving around without rear door panels and without locking them for quite some time now. Then, one day I try getting in from the back (I do it occasionally because it's easier than yanking out my key and stabbing the key hole), and it wouldn't open. So I unlocked it, and it opened. And I locked and unlocked it many many times, and it was working. So I put the metal piece that connects the door handle to the mechanism, and today it stopped working again. :'(

There's also the P0117 I was worried about. I noticed that my radiator fan stopped running as soon as I turned off the car. This seemed suspicious to me, as it ran for a good few minutes after I turned off the car (ever since the code popped up). So I scanned the car, and the P0117 disappeared. I'm lost.

So I cleared my CEL codes, to see what would pop up, and guess what?

I'm driving around without any lights on my dash as of today.

What's going on? I don't know. But, I'm not complaining....

[abscate]

Shiahbafi - I lost your post on measuring the ECT (was in the wrong place) but here is the clarification

The chart is a bit misleading as VIDA shifted the columns by one block to the left - if you pretend the data refers to the block to the right, then it makes sense

Screen Shot 2018-09-10 at 9.57.38 AM.png (419.87 KiB) Viewed 259 times

You want to pull the connector and measure the resistance (OHMS) across the sensor when cold and when hot. Im not sure of the tolerance on these measurements - haven't seen that listed anywhere. I think it is pretty wide, though.

With an ambient temperature of 56F (about 12C) my coolant sensor is reading 3840 Ohms.