Pulled out the ECM, replaced it and now fuel injection gets no power

[PedroMotta4183]

I recently had my Volvo fail smog.

The fixes seemed simple. One was replacing the PNP sensor, and the other was cleaning the computer ports.

I followed instructions on youtube (first mistake).
I pulled out the computers , (After disconnecting my battery), and used a tiny bit of the cleaner they suggested.

I replace the computers modules.

I went to start my car, and it would not start.

I had someone help me check all the fuses and power, and as it turns out, I am not getting a power pulse to the fuel injection as I turn the ignition.

All fuses are OK. I tried switching out the Engine control relay. I made sure the computers are in all the way. The battery is good, alternator is good.
I am not getting any new errors from my scanner. All other electric functions are OK in the car, and everything was working well before I made this huge mistake.

Does anyone know what could have happened?

[abscate]

You should have 12 volts constant to the fuel injectors, and the computer (ECM) fires them by grounding through the unit.

Have you tried locking and unlocking the car 5-6 times with the key? You might have just scrambled the immobilized and are getting a no start from that.

Confirm 12 volts to the fuel injectors, then try a shot of starting fluid to confirm lack of fuel.

After this, you will need VIDA to diagnose deeper.

[chrism]

Did you properly lock the ECM back into position (getting the pink sliders fully slid back home)?

Are you using the horseshoe tool to unlock/relock the sliders, or are you using a skinny screwdriver to slide them?

[PedroMotta4183]

Thank you so much for your response.

I tried the locking and unlocking 5 or 6 times, and unfortunately that did not work.

I don't have a way to check the voltage today, but from what I was told by someone who helped me yesterday, there was no power coming to the fuel injection at all.
I called a mechanic, and they also suggested I need VIDA to get a real diagnosis.

So far, still not working.

You should have 12 volts constant to the fuel injectors, and the computer (ECM) fires them by grounding through the unit.

Have you tried locking and unlocking the car 5-6 times with the key? You might have just scrambled the immobilized and are getting a no start from that.

Confirm 12 volts to the fuel injectors, then try a shot of starting fluid to confirm lack of fuel.

After this, you will need VIDA to diagnose deeper.

[PedroMotta4183]

Thank you so much for your reply.

I did not use the proper tool, I used a screwdriver.

I do believe it is in place properly, although I can't 100% say that for the pink sliders.

If the computer was not properly back in, would I be seeing other errors? Would it be pretty obvious if that was the case?

Did you properly lock the ECM back into position (getting the pink sliders fully slid back home)?

Are you using the horseshoe tool to unlock/relock the sliders, or are you using a skinny screwdriver to slide them?

[abscate]

I don't have a way to check the voltage today, but from what I was told by someone who helped me yesterday, there was no power coming to the fuel injection at all.

Thats probably a much simpler 12V supply failure of some sort.

ECM is Swedish for 'don't touch this thing until you have exhausted all other possibilities"

[mrbrian200]

If you're not getting 12v to the injectors, you'll also find likely that you're not getting 12v to the coil packs, MAF, or the PTC resistor. The main engine system management relay that supplies all of this isn't closing likely because the ECM isn't seated properly or you bent some pins locking/unlocking repeatedly without the correct tool. I used the screwdriver method once (successfully) to remove the ECM. I would discourage attempting this method. I had to take the bumper cover and RH headlamp housing off to get a long tool in there to push on the slide locks from the ends before I was confident that the ECM was properly locked in before I reconnected the battery. And you have to push both slide locks at the same time--carefully. If I ever decide to pull the ECM or TCM again I'm buying the horseshoe tool.

[chrism]

I do believe it is in place properly, although I can't 100% say that for the pink sliders.

The grooves that the pink sliders interface with are slanted. (See photo below.) As you move the sliders toward the locked position they actually "pull" the ECM tightly downward. So if the sliders aren't slid all the way home then there's no way the connecting pins can be fully engaged. It may be that some pins are making contact and some pins aren't. You gotta get both of those pink sliders ALL THE WAY to the end of their travel.

[PedroMotta4183]

Thanks for that explanation! That makes sense.

I do believe it is in place properly, although I can't 100% say that for the pink sliders.

The grooves that the pink sliders interface with are slanted. (See photo below.) As you move the sliders toward the locked position they actually "pull" the ECM tightly downward. So if the sliders aren't slid all the way home then there's no way the connecting pins can be fully engaged. It may be that some pins are making contact and some pins aren't. You gotta get both of those pink sliders ALL THE WAY to the end of their travel.

[PedroMotta4183]

Thanks everyone for the help.

So, I am buying the removal tool , to make sure it is properly the computer is properly set back in and all contacts are connected properly.

I'm also buying a VIDA scanner. The tutorials all explain its use pretty thoroughly in general...but in this particular case , any suggestions on what I should be looking for in terms of what the problem is , or how I can use the software to perform whatever reset you think I may need to get my car started?

Thanks again for all the help