Cam cover removal

Cupojoe710 · Post by **Cupojoe710** » 04 Sep 2018, 19:41

I need to replace my cam cover on my 2002 Volvo S60 due to some broken bolts stuck in the cover from the VVT solenoid. A few failed attempts at removing said broken bolts has put me in this position. I've learned about using a cam locking tool and to use anerobic sealant lighlty with a paint roller to make the new gasket. I also heard tighten the bolts from the inside out, hand tight at first and go back through and tighten and torque themto spec. But is there anything I should be particularly worried about? I've removed a few valve covers in my day, but I'm assuming cam covers are a different story. Especially a Volvo cam cover. Any tips or tricks would be greatly appreciated. Thank you guys!

Post by **BlackBart** » 05 Sep 2018, 10:04

I've just been through this, for different reasons. It started as a cam seal replacement, I made a mistake and broke the cam lock tool, which turned it into a cylinder head removal / camshaft replacement saga working very part-time.

So, avoid my mistakes and you'll be fine. The primary lesson is DO NOT crank the cam lock bolts down! They just have to fit snug in the cam slots. If you can avoid taking the sprocket-hub assemblies off the camshafts, you don't even need to undo the 88 ft-lb cam bolts. However, one of the tiny sprocket bolts has to come out to clear the cam cover oil seal lip at that end of the motor when you lift it off. Lift it straight up - do not put torque on the cast aluminum fins at the hub end of the cover. It's fairly thin aluminum - that's why so many bolts.

viewtopic.php?f=9&t=82283&start=30

viewtopic.php?f=9&t=85853

There's a good write-up here on MVS by F250, with a detailed pdf of steps. It is maybe overly complicated, and has a mistake in the cranking down the cam lock tool.

On the VVT set-up, there's some straightforward advice here on Swedespeed by "CamZH," "Rmind," and "Cattlecar."......
https://forums.swedespeed.com/showthrea ... &styleid=4

<EDIT> ... also, the Haynes paper manual is fairly good if you don't have the factory electronic access.

Cupojoe710 · Post by **Cupojoe710** » 05 Sep 2018, 18:47

Hell yeah BlackBart! Thank you! I have one more question out of curiosity. The torx bolts on the cam cover, what do they fasten down to? They are at like a 50 degree angle going into the engine.

Post by **BlackBart** » 06 Sep 2018, 10:27

These are the flat-topped torx bolts to hold the plastic? They should be going straight down into the aluminum head...hmm.. I may leave my covers off - I like to see what's going on, although dust and crud gets between the coils and wires.

Or do you mean the 45 or so 10mm hex bolts holding down the top of the head? And to answer your earlier question - yes, you - carefully - press down the top of the head with the cams wired up tight to the top half, cam tool in place. As you press down, some of the valves are being forced open, which will try to spin the cam - you don't want that! You thread the bolts in starting from the center, just finger tight, and work your way both left and right towards the ends of the head. As you snug them in steps, the others will now be loose - bring them all up to the same "snugness." Gradually you'll pull it all down flat and can torque them all from the middle outwards.

I thought I put the goop on pretty thin, but I had some squeeze out, so go easy. Don't scratch the machined surfaces of either half, only use plastic scrapers, paint stripper, brass brushes to clean off the old goop. Get them really clean - use acetone / brake cleaner. Get all oil out of the o-ring grooves - that fouled up someone else's repair here.

Cupojoe710 · Post by **Cupojoe710** » 06 Sep 2018, 11:11

The bolts that I'm mentioning hold down the cam head, not the protective engine cover.

Post by **jonesg** » 06 Sep 2018, 14:32

Cupojoe710 wrote: ↑06 Sep 2018, 11:11 The bolts that I'm mentioning hold down the cam head, not the protective engine cover.

Sounds like an opticsl illusion.
Cranking down on bolts that are crooked will snap their heads off.

Cupojoe710 · Post by **Cupojoe710** » 07 Sep 2018, 08:27

One final question (maybe) lol. What gaskets or seals need replaced upon removing the cam cover? ( Beside the anerobic sealant used on the cover itself)

Post by **prwood** » 07 Sep 2018, 08:39

Cupojoe710 wrote: ↑07 Sep 2018, 08:27 One final question (maybe) lol. What gaskets or seals need replaced upon removing the cam cover? ( Beside the anerobic sealant used on the cover itself)

The spark plug tube seals need to be replaced:

https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/volvo- ... al-1397525

Cupojoe710 · Post by **Cupojoe710** » 07 Sep 2018, 10:21

I was expecting a lot more than just o rings lol. I appreciate all the help! As soon as my cam cover gets here I'll update on the process.

Post by **prwood** » 07 Sep 2018, 10:28

Cupojoe710 wrote: ↑07 Sep 2018, 10:21 I was expecting a lot more than just o rings lol. I appreciate all the help! As soon as my cam cover gets here I'll update on the process.

You might also want to replace the camshaft oil seals since they're going to come out anyway. In my case I had done that recently as a separate job, so they were in pretty good shape when I went to reseal the cam cover, and I just kept the same ones.