Oil Filler Tube
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Mr. Detail
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Oil Filler Tube
Boy, I did not think I would have this many issues with a V70. Changing the oil this morning and wondered how to clean up the inside of the oil filler area. My old S70 never looked this bad. (See attachment)
- Rattnalle
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Kind of hard to do without dropping the stuff down the engine.
But that area barely sees any oil circulation so it's bound to look somewhat bad compared to what you'd see on an older model with a clear view of the cams. Mine didn't look too far from yours but it's slowly cleaning up on it's own now that I'm doing slightly shorter OCIs than the PO. I'm taking that as a sign that the inside of the engine is cleaning up as well.
But that area barely sees any oil circulation so it's bound to look somewhat bad compared to what you'd see on an older model with a clear view of the cams. Mine didn't look too far from yours but it's slowly cleaning up on it's own now that I'm doing slightly shorter OCIs than the PO. I'm taking that as a sign that the inside of the engine is cleaning up as well.
- abscate
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That’s nasty. Try a few runs of Bells engine oil cleaner....you add it to an idling engine just before an oil change and idle for ten minutes.
Empty Nester
A Captain in a Sea of Estrogen
1999-V70-T5M56 2005-V70-M56 1999-S70 VW T4 XC90-in-Red
Link to Maintenance record thread
A Captain in a Sea of Estrogen
1999-V70-T5M56 2005-V70-M56 1999-S70 VW T4 XC90-in-Red
Link to Maintenance record thread
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Georgeandkira
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Mine ('07 bought 12/16 w/70K) looked the same.
At oil change time I drained the oil fairly hot, rubbed the grate with lacquer thinner and the let the bits fall.
Then I washed it down by pouring the old, hot oil back through.
Then repeated the oil change normally.
What will not budge is the black coating on the inside of the filler neck.
Those chunks, and the likely use of conventional oils, is what's prompting me to change out my PVC hardware ahead of schedule.
At oil change time I drained the oil fairly hot, rubbed the grate with lacquer thinner and the let the bits fall.
Then I washed it down by pouring the old, hot oil back through.
Then repeated the oil change normally.
What will not budge is the black coating on the inside of the filler neck.
Those chunks, and the likely use of conventional oils, is what's prompting me to change out my PVC hardware ahead of schedule.
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Mr. Detail
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abscate, I know you suggested an engine oil flush above but I seem to see a lot of comments on the internet warning about the damage to the oil seals after flushing. I really want to do the flush since this car now has 148k miles on it and I really don't have a clear picture as to the previous owner's oil change habits.
- oragex
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PO may have saved a few coins on oil changes there. Id throw a new pcv in there by now as well. I had the same when I got mine with 120k. Before an oil change, wet the grill with some seafoam, let sit 24h, wipe with a cloth, repeat. Mine looks like new now. About only seafoam can clean the varnish.
Several Volvo Repair Videos https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=P ... s0FSVSOT_c
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Mr. Detail
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orgex, when you speak of a "PCV" is that the same as a purge valve?
- Attachments
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Purge_valve_V70.pptx- (100.62 KiB) Downloaded 107 times
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Georgeandkira
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Yo, Mr. Detail: The pictures both you and BlackBart included tell it all.
The purge valve opens with electrical signal to a magnet. This allows fresh air to enter the fuel tank and charcoal canister thus displacing the accumulated vapors. Those vapors are sucked up by the engine and burned. The engine's management system knows when to apply the voltage. It also knows that when actuated, the system is not sealed to the outside thus no leakage data is monitored. Only when the valve is closed can the system test itself for leaks. It is at this time the leak in your J hose (or wherever) was detected. These valves can be mounted almost anywhere because they can be plumbed to reach anywhere. That the "plumbing" (rubber hoses) can be routed any-which-way from the tank to the engine is one of the maddening things about cars--YOU CAN'T EASILY FIND A LEAK!
The hardware BB pictured is all on the engine and allows for the ingestion of mean, vaporous crankcase gasses. The box gives vaporous oil a place to condense so it can drain back into the crankcase.
To BlackBart: Is the pipe assembly atop and on the left of the picture for turbos only? That's for coolant, no?
The purge valve opens with electrical signal to a magnet. This allows fresh air to enter the fuel tank and charcoal canister thus displacing the accumulated vapors. Those vapors are sucked up by the engine and burned. The engine's management system knows when to apply the voltage. It also knows that when actuated, the system is not sealed to the outside thus no leakage data is monitored. Only when the valve is closed can the system test itself for leaks. It is at this time the leak in your J hose (or wherever) was detected. These valves can be mounted almost anywhere because they can be plumbed to reach anywhere. That the "plumbing" (rubber hoses) can be routed any-which-way from the tank to the engine is one of the maddening things about cars--YOU CAN'T EASILY FIND A LEAK!
The hardware BB pictured is all on the engine and allows for the ingestion of mean, vaporous crankcase gasses. The box gives vaporous oil a place to condense so it can drain back into the crankcase.
To BlackBart: Is the pipe assembly atop and on the left of the picture for turbos only? That's for coolant, no?
- BlackBart
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That's the way mine looked, for an XC turbo, yes.
That combo line had vapor pipes, coolant pipes - not clear why the water is passing through this assembly. Attaches to the back (drivers side) of the head and the thermostat housing.
<EDIT> This conversation says the coolant lines have to do with keeping the oil vapor warm and not condensing in the little lines...(?) Makes sense.
viewtopic.php?f=9&t=86642
That combo line had vapor pipes, coolant pipes - not clear why the water is passing through this assembly. Attaches to the back (drivers side) of the head and the thermostat housing.
<EDIT> This conversation says the coolant lines have to do with keeping the oil vapor warm and not condensing in the little lines...(?) Makes sense.
viewtopic.php?f=9&t=86642
ex-1984 245T wagon
1994 850T5 wagon
2004 XC70 wagon BlackBetty
1994 850T5 wagon
2004 XC70 wagon BlackBetty
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