240DL 1985..is it hard to remove injectors? New Guy.

carroll6 · Post by **carroll6** » 31 Oct 2007, 09:31

Is this a difficult task? I JUST GOT a 85 240DL w/201k miles and want to pull the injectors and have them cleaned. It is running rough at startup..acts like something is wrong, then when it warms up it runs good.. JUST got the car ..and checking all the little problems.. flashers intermittent.. power steering pump low on fluid.. this car has not been taken care of that well. I have not got a manual or anything for it yet. I still do not know where all the sensors are! TPS, MAF, etc! Is there a FAQ for location of all the sensors, fuses, and any other good information as to where things are in the car? The speedo cable is starting to come loose..jumps around a little bit.. interior is VERY GOOD... some panels and hood have rust on it.. got it for 500 bucks. thanks to all any help very appreciated as I get started.

Post by **billofdurham** » 31 Oct 2007, 12:51

Welcome to Matthew's Volvo Site.

Removing the injectors depends on the engine that is fitted. The B230F has a common fuel rail which has to be loosened and the injectors come out with that. The B200E and B230E have individual pipes to the injectors. Each injector is held in by a retainer with a hex screw.

In your other post you indicate that the fuel could be old. This could be causing your start/idle problems. I would be tempted to drain the tank and start with new fuel.

The indicator problems could be a worn switch.

If you need an owner's manual you can download one, free of charge, from Volvo Cars US:

http://new.volvocars.com/ownersdocs/198 ... 240_00.htm

There is no FAQ for the sensors etc but we can always supply the information. The owner's manual has a list of fuses.

Bill.

carroll6 · Post by **carroll6** » 31 Oct 2007, 16:47

Thanks Bill and thanks for the link! Still sputters at startup..
I am thinking now "rotor". Man plug wires are VERY expensive at 40bucks.

New plugs took away the worst of the sputtering at startup.. new air cleaner.. replaced 25amp fuse by the battery..it's LOTS better..but still doesn't run smooth. JUST paid for it and drove it home..some ill seated lamps caused the brake light problem. I found the hazard flasher and reseated it..bent the prongs slightly as in the way you do a electrical plug when it wont fit right. Hmm.. the turn signals flash VERY FAST.. frantically.. but the hazard is slower. I think flasher is bad. I immediately replaced the 25amp fuse by the battery, reading that this can cause problems. The interior is GOOD.. and car feels great to driver, so SOLID I love it.

The front turn signals do not work with hazard nor turn signal.

I am going through the problems. ONE thing.. the Power steering fluid said "automatic transmission fluid only".. what is this?

I really want to bring this car back to life.. man 500bucks and boy do I love the way it feels to drive.. it is wonderful!

Just went to your link.. thak you Bill!! Here's my problem!
1 Signal lever engaged for normal turns.
Note: A defective turn signal bulb will cause turn signal indicator and remaining signal lights to flash more rapidly than normal.

Klausc · Post by **Klausc** » 31 Oct 2007, 19:50

Find yourself a Bently manual for your car. It is expensive but worth it.

If you can afford the down time, pull your injectors and have them professionally cleaned. Look up http://www.cruzinperformance.com/

Get a multimeter and check the 0hms of your coolant temp sensor and intake air temp sensor. Either one could make you run rich.

Flush the brake fluid!

Klaus

carroll6 · Post by **carroll6** » 31 Oct 2007, 20:15

Yes! I can afford the downtime.. but.. am not sure exactly how to remove the injectors.. I don't have any manuals- yet. Went to the Bently site, 50 bucks is not unreasonable for a GOOD manual.

Boy I like this car. It seems easy to work on compared to many, and the ride is solid, stately, comfortable, and feels safe. However this car is not in mint condition. There's some rust on one back panel (the fender with the fuel door on it).. some rust on the hood.. rust on the panels underneath the car..whatver these are called, rocker panels? So hood, fender and panels to make the body perfect. The interior is VERY nice, but not concours.

500 bucks and it seems like I will not have to put lots of money into to to make it run properly.

carroll6 · Post by **carroll6** » 31 Oct 2007, 20:23

[quote="billofdurham"]Welcome to Matthew's Volvo Site.

Removing the injectors depends on the engine that is fitted. The B230F has a common fuel rail which has to be loosened and the injectors come out with that. The B200E and B230E have individual pipes to the injectors. Each injector is held in by a retainer with a hex screw.

Bill is that all there is to it? What is holding the injectors into the engine aren't they threaded in there? I haven't even looked it over yet.. I was reading about seafoam, then one guy suggested having the injectors cleaned on cars over 200k. You know what would be great for ALL cars on these forums? If someone made a photo of a engine in the car, and pointers to all the sensors and devices on it.

Klausc · Post by **Klausc** » 31 Oct 2007, 20:34

Injectors are not like spark plugs, they are not subjected to compression strength. Injectors have small O rings at the bottom and large O rings about half way up to keep air from getting into the intake manifold. They just pull straight up and out. My 1995 with D-jet had a hex bolt holding them in place.
There is no rocket science in your engine bay, with the exception of the fuel management "computer".
You biggest worry now should be to get a Bently, read it, and give it a good tune up and change all of the fluids, even the differential oil. Make sure the brakes are up to snuff, easy to do stuff.
Never let a dealer see the car! You can do everything on the 240.

Klaus

carroll6 · Post by **carroll6** » 31 Oct 2007, 20:42

Klausc wrote:Injectors are not like spark plugs, they are not subjected to compression strength. Injectors have small O rings at the bottom and large O rings about half way up to keep air from getting into the intake manifold. They just pull straight up and out. My 1995 with D-jet had a hex bolt holding them in place.
There is no rocket science in your engine bay, with the exception of the fuel management "computer".
Klaus

Thanks! 50 bucks...you can't get a shop to do ANYTHING for 50 bucks. I will get a rotor next. The points seem funny on this one..Pertonix doesn't make a electronic ignition for it. The wires seem very expensive. This may not be the problem at all.. but the spark plugs helped lots. A new fuel pump came with the car, they replaced the fuel filter I believe..guessing at the problem. This engine is the B230F engine, 1985 DL 240.

Klausc · Post by **Klausc** » 31 Oct 2007, 20:50

carroll6 wrote: Thanks! 50 bucks...you can't get a shop to do ANYTHING for 50 bucks. I will get a rotor next. The points seem funny on this one..Pertonix doesn't make a electronic ignition for it. The wires seem very expensive. This may not be the problem at all.. but the spark plugs helped lots. A new fuel pump came with the car, they replaced the fuel filter I believe..guessing at the problem. This engine is the B230F engine, 1985 DL 240.

If you find ignition points on your car, let me know. Those went away in the early 70s.
Your plug wires are probably OK, but cap and rotor should be very worn - still working? Do only the obvious things for now, always start with the cheap and easy and work your way up. Never assume a sensor is bad until you check the resistance with a voltmeter.
KISS

Klaus