The passenger side mirror housing has a big concave forward shell, and a "bezel." They are separated on the inner, hinge side. I cannot force it closed; the inner mechanical guts seem to be in the way -- so maybe something else has shifted position? Electric adjustment works. Also, the hinge is partly broken -- I can rotate the mirror housing "outboard" much further than it ought to go, it just glides upwards over the bottom "bracket arm" that holds the entire housing. I can fold it inboard normally.
How do I fix this without breaking clips etc? I presume I need to take off the bezel.
See parts #2 & #17 in this diagram. I can see that the two clips are not broken.
viewtopic.php?f=1&t=52098&p=260533&hili ... de#p260533
EDIT: I see that the clamshell is flush against a metal plate at the bottom of the assembly. THAT is why I cannot push it closed any further. I can see a crack in that plate, which attached to the rotating mechanism. So I conclude that the broken plate has been rotated around the vertical tube that looks like it is wound with a big spring -- which is the "hinge." So I guess I need a new assembly. Unless I can get the clamshell off & force the metal back into proper alignment.
side mirror clamshell popped open on hinge/inner side
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850forum
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side mirror clamshell popped open on hinge/inner side
Last edited by 850forum on 24 Sep 2018, 16:30, edited 1 time in total.
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850forum
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At 0:38 it shows the two exterior clips that are popped open on my car.
Maybe the vertical clips inside the back of the clamshell have been popped open partially (shown at 1:16). So I would need to jiggle them back into alignment before I can push the thing back together?
Maybe the vertical clips inside the back of the clamshell have been popped open partially (shown at 1:16). So I would need to jiggle them back into alignment before I can push the thing back together?
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850forum
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The inner vertical clips are popped open, but I cannot squeeze it shut. The bottom is further from closure than the top.
Need to remove back to see what's going on.
How did you squeeze shut the clips with ONE screwdriver? I am pushing each side with a separate flathead screwdriver, but still need to forcefully push them back out of the slot -- & when I do that, the damn housing just rotates on its pivot. Of course I cannot put my body against it, since then the clamshell won't be ABLE to move !!! Going to try long needlenose pliers...
Need to remove back to see what's going on.
How did you squeeze shut the clips with ONE screwdriver? I am pushing each side with a separate flathead screwdriver, but still need to forcefully push them back out of the slot -- & when I do that, the damn housing just rotates on its pivot. Of course I cannot put my body against it, since then the clamshell won't be ABLE to move !!! Going to try long needlenose pliers...
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850forum
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Not working. My 1996 850 wagon seems to be a bit different.
1) the vertical clips only seem to be on the outer side. There is no surface that could accept the holes on the inner side. I see the two wiring harnesses, and empty space (it seems). Busted one half of the top clip off now too. EDIT -- I do have clips on the inner side, but they are popped out already.
2) those 4 screws seem to be holding the outer housing, as well as the clips.
3) those screws seem to be some sort of square drive. Might have a socket type drive but of course the socket holder is too fat to get in there.
4) using Craftsman P1 phillips driver - buggering up the plastic forcing it thru the gap, shaft diameter is too large. Needle nose too fat, afraid of breaking the mirror forcing it thru.
5) cannot get the driver "straight" at the screws, it might work if I could go straight at it & push hard. STUPID design by Volvo.
6) one screw is rusty, and I have stripped the screw a bit trying to get the driver to grab. Again, STUPID design.
With the shell open, water is getting down into the wiring harness "pipe" which sticks up vertically. Where is it going in the interior?
1) the vertical clips only seem to be on the outer side. There is no surface that could accept the holes on the inner side. I see the two wiring harnesses, and empty space (it seems). Busted one half of the top clip off now too. EDIT -- I do have clips on the inner side, but they are popped out already.
2) those 4 screws seem to be holding the outer housing, as well as the clips.
3) those screws seem to be some sort of square drive. Might have a socket type drive but of course the socket holder is too fat to get in there.
4) using Craftsman P1 phillips driver - buggering up the plastic forcing it thru the gap, shaft diameter is too large. Needle nose too fat, afraid of breaking the mirror forcing it thru.
5) cannot get the driver "straight" at the screws, it might work if I could go straight at it & push hard. STUPID design by Volvo.
6) one screw is rusty, and I have stripped the screw a bit trying to get the driver to grab. Again, STUPID design.
With the shell open, water is getting down into the wiring harness "pipe" which sticks up vertically. Where is it going in the interior?
Last edited by 850forum on 24 Sep 2018, 16:31, edited 1 time in total.
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850forum
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The diagram describes the screws as "cross recessed." Huh? There is another, old style, that is similar to Phillips but differently angled.
viewtopic.php?f=1&t=52098&p=260533&hili ... de#p260533
Looks kind of like a Quadrex head. Seems like it is designed to remove w/ a Phillips -- but I think you need straight-on engagement:
History of every type of screw head, interesting if I wasn't trying to solve a problem:
https://www.instructables.com/id/When-a ... -Phillips/
Founded in 1978, AVA Specialty Fasteners Ltd. of Canada presents Quadrex which combines the best features of Cross Recess and Square Socket drives. The Quadrex recess increases productivity by incorporating the superior torque transmission and cling fit of the Square Socket drive with the desirable field repair and retrofitting features of the Phillips drive.
TRIVIA:
Phillips developed Thompsons invention screw into a workable form. Phillips had come up with a recessed cross screw designed for efficiency on an auto assembly line. The idea was that the screwdriver would turn the screw with increasing force until the tip of the driver popped out, called camout. When tightening a Phillips screw with a Phillips screw driver you will notice that when the torque gets to be too strong, the screw driver winds itself out of the screw so the screw head would not be ruined or brake off.
NICE PICTORIAL SCREW HEAD IDENTIFICATION:
http://resources.tannerbolt.com/article ... s/#quadrex
viewtopic.php?f=1&t=52098&p=260533&hili ... de#p260533
Looks kind of like a Quadrex head. Seems like it is designed to remove w/ a Phillips -- but I think you need straight-on engagement:
History of every type of screw head, interesting if I wasn't trying to solve a problem:
https://www.instructables.com/id/When-a ... -Phillips/
Founded in 1978, AVA Specialty Fasteners Ltd. of Canada presents Quadrex which combines the best features of Cross Recess and Square Socket drives. The Quadrex recess increases productivity by incorporating the superior torque transmission and cling fit of the Square Socket drive with the desirable field repair and retrofitting features of the Phillips drive.
TRIVIA:
Phillips developed Thompsons invention screw into a workable form. Phillips had come up with a recessed cross screw designed for efficiency on an auto assembly line. The idea was that the screwdriver would turn the screw with increasing force until the tip of the driver popped out, called camout. When tightening a Phillips screw with a Phillips screw driver you will notice that when the torque gets to be too strong, the screw driver winds itself out of the screw so the screw head would not be ruined or brake off.
NICE PICTORIAL SCREW HEAD IDENTIFICATION:
http://resources.tannerbolt.com/article ... s/#quadrex
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850forum
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I see that the clamshell is flush against a metal plate at the bottom of the assembly. THAT is why I cannot push it closed any further. I can see a crack in that plate, which attached to the rotating mechanism. So I conclude that the broken plate has been rotated around the vertical tube that looks like it is wound with a big spring -- which is the "hinge." So I guess I need a new assembly. Unless I can get the clamshell off & force the metal back into proper alignment.
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850forum
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Shoved duct seal into the open pipe around the wiring, duct tape over the gap in the clamshell. But I do wonder if I've got water inside the pipe chase in the car somewhere.
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850forum
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Got a junkyard mirror. What's the trick to remove the triangular piece on the inner door, wo expose the fasteners?
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