2000 XC CVVT Timing Belt/Water Pump Sanity Check

[FlyingVolvo]

Hello again,

It appears that my water pump has been leaking very slightly, so I'm just gonna do the whole thing (TB, tensioner, idler, pump). There's a wealth of information here and on other forums about pre-99 non-CVVT engines, but very little on mine (more complicated of course). I want to get some clarification because I've seen conflicting posts and have not done a DIY TB change on this car before.

If ALL I am going to do is the timing belt and associated components, what tool if any, should I get for locking the cams? Even with a tool, any special considerations I'm missing with CVVT?

I've seen these various responses so far digging through the forums:

1. Don't need any tool, just make sure it's aligned after.
2. Use the cheap "IPD" type front cam sprocket locking tool, because I'm not doing any actual cam/hub work.
3. Use the heavier duty rear cam locking tool, because the cams move independent from the sprockets due to CVVT
4. Use both!

I feel confident about all the work, with the exception of anything actually timing related with the CVVT hub. I'd really like to learn how to do this job, but obviously murdering my engine is not on my list of things to do.

Thanks as always!

[rspi]

[FlyingVolvo]

Thanks. I looked at most of your videos, but I guess I didn't think of looking at the ones for P2.

IPD says their cam locking tool doesn't work for 1999 and after, but are you saying that it will fit in there and could be useful to make it easier?

[Ozark Lee]

I never use a cam locker on any timing belt change but it is particularly worthless on a CVVT car. If you are not doing anything beyond the belt change along with all of the stuff in the path then you will not need the rear cam adjustment tool either. Where the rear cam adjustment tool is necessary is when the CVVT hub needs to be removed.

The only oddity on the CVVT car is setting the CVVT preload and I will elaborate on that at the end of the post.

The belt removal and replacement is actually easier than on a P80 since there is not a grenade pin style tensioner to deal with.

To do the change line up the timing marks on the cam to the 12:00 position on both and make sure the crankshaft mark is lined up. The bottom plate still needs to come off to get the belt on and off if you take the belt off whole. Even if you cut the belt to get it off you will need to get the new belt back on so it is a must to remove it.

Once the bottom plate is off and the timing marks are set just loosen the center bolt on the tensioner and the belt will slack enough to pull it off of the camshaft sprockets. Remove the belt and then the pump and the idler and replace them as usual.

Once you have changed the pieces that you want to change go ahead and thread the new belt on and route it over the camshaft sprockets, making sure that the belt is taught as it comes over the idler roller and onto the intake cam sprocket. At this stage the timing marks are at there normal 12:00 position on the camshafts.

Once the belt is properly threaded and you have added coolant back and rough set the tensioner then rotate the engine a couple of revolutions, clockwise, and recheck the timing marks.

Once your verify that the marks are correct continue rotating the engine another 90 degrees clockwise and then rotate it back counter clockwise back to the marks. This sets the preload.

At this point loosen the tensioner and remove the belt from the cam sprockets, particularly the exhaust cam but they come off together. Reinstall the belt starting at the intake sprocket and, as you get to the exhaust cam rotate the sprocket ring to line up the timing mark at the 12:00 position.

It is important to understand that the sprocket ring is not fixed to the camshaft itself. It floats.

Once the exhaust camshaft sprocket is lined up go ahead and set the tensioner to get the mark in the "window" and rotate the the engine by had another couple of revolutions. Recheck the marks and if they are lined up go ahead and tighten the center bolt on the tension tight and start the engine. Let it run for a minute or so and recheck the tensioner. I typically have to mess with adjustment a couple of times setting it and starting the engine again before I get it correctly set inside the window.

The last check is to observe the bolt position inside of the slots on the exhaust cam sprocket. They should not be at either limit in the slots. They are usually not centered in the slot but so long as they are not at either limit then you are good to go and go ahead and set the final torque on the tensioner center bolt.

From there it is just putting the covers back on.

...Lee

[abscate]

I find it a lot easier to put the belt on the water pump last..it’s larger radius and you are pushing the belt down, which is easier than pulling the small radius up to the tensioner

[FlyingVolvo]

Lee, thanks so much for that detailed description. Hoping to tackle that this weekend. I'm sure I'll report back if I have any questions. Good thing I've got my motorcycle as a backup vehicle!

[abscate]

I should be around this weekend chill-axing...if you get stuck and can FaceTime or Skype I’ll pm coordinates