Timing belt questions

Post by **SuperHerman** » 28 Sep 2018, 12:06

Crank can never be 180 degrees off. It is either at the mark or not. Think of a circle with a mark on it - the mark is the timing mark. If it lines up it is correctly set. The sprocket is keyed - so the gear can only go on one way. Unless this is broken - timing on the bottom end is straight forward.

The 180 degree off fear comes from the cam shafts. They can be either up or down, but each cam also has an up and down position. This is determined by examining the slots in the back of each cam. If these are aligned correctly then you are good. It is a curious system and requires a close examination of the slot and upper cam/valve cover. There are write ups on it with good pictures.

(The BMW motors I have been working on have letters on the top of the cam tops which make it simple - letters up then in right spot - if down 180 degrees off).

I am skipping a bunch of steps and just mentioning the ones you are asking about. I would put the head on - put the cams in and align them as close to possible. Fully install the Valve Cover, but note the cams may move a bit due to valve spring pressure. Once the valve cover is on and torqued down just turn the cams back THE SHORTEST DISTANCE to get the cams aligned. (Should be a few degrees - not 360 degrees less a few degrees)

mrjay62 · Post by **mrjay62** » 28 Sep 2018, 12:08

You The Man!

Thank you.... I got it now....

mrjay62 · Post by **mrjay62** » 28 Sep 2018, 16:05

Ok Another Question! Grrrr

I just picked up the head from having it milled... Looks good had 3 low spots.
Now I was told That I should use something like Permatex high heat Head Gasket sealant, (Copper) At least on the Engine side of the gasket since that hasnt been milled....Not to Spray it on the head or the engine just the gasket I can do both sides if I want....

Thoughts Anyone?

Post by **abscate** » 28 Sep 2018, 16:42

Lets let the guys who have done loads of these respond. My recollection is the sealants are not recommended, but OEM blue box Volvo head gasket is the thing.

mrjay62 · Post by **mrjay62** » 28 Sep 2018, 17:50

Hi Abscate.

According to FCP. Victor Reinz is OEM?

Ive watched a few videos where people place the gasket on the head and sprayed Everything including the vales... Not Doing that!
Like I said it was mentioned to me only because I didnt have the block milled.... Its not likei know any better...
I looked up blue box and most of the descriptions/ manufacturer saids Victor Reinz....

Post by **abscate** » 28 Sep 2018, 19:43

mrjay62 wrote: ↑28 Sep 2018, 17:50 Hi Abscate.

According to FCP. Victor Reinz is OEM?

Ive watched a few videos where people place the gasket on the head and sprayed Everything including the vales... Not Doing that!
Like I said it was mentioned to me only because I didnt have the block milled.... Its not likei know any better...
I looked up blue box and most of the descriptions/ manufacturer saids Victor Reinz....

If it’s $80 it’s the right one. If it’s half that or less, I wouldn’t.

New head bolts needed too.

mrjay62 · Post by **mrjay62** » 28 Sep 2018, 19:55

I already ordered the VR kit from FCP.
And asked for OEM , The reply was Victor Reinz is OEM. At 175$ for the kit it better be good....

Post by **abscate** » 29 Sep 2018, 09:50

Take the kit over to Best Volvo and compare your gasket with the Volvo one. If it’s not identical, I would go Volvo

OEM, Genuine, OE....all pretty soft descriptions now

mrjay62 · Post by **mrjay62** » 29 Sep 2018, 10:19

Yeah that would be a good idea.
But thats one dealership I wouldn't go back to, If you seen the attitude they had when I showed up with the pump that failed after less 2 years Made me want to spit right in his mouth while he was talking Ship.
Im going to take my chances with the Victor kit. Im told and read that its a Good German Made product.
The donor car has a newer volvo water pump just under 44k miles on it I pulled it for just in case. I ordered a new one for my car & belts and pulleys.
Maybe today I can remove the valves and seal do the lapping 1st get it ready for the new seals.

Thanks Abscate...

Post by **SuperHerman** » 29 Sep 2018, 12:05

Open items
1) Use of copper spay - I have heard it both ways. I stick to what VIDA says and used nothing. I have done about 4-5 head gaskets in the last 3 or so years. I have cleaned the block deck as well as possible and then gone over it with 800 grit wet sandpaper using WD40 rather than water. Very light pass, light pressure, and on a sanding block. Purpose is more to get a nice surface texture NOT to get rid of imperfections or flatten. More like a polish - a few minutes for the entire thing tops. Read up on it and decide if you want to go this route. I have never had an issue, but then I never had an issue not doing it. People will comment about making the deck uneven - I am not talking about that level of sanding. Closer to a wipe clean than a scrub.

2) VR head gaskets are fine. I have used them on the last two Volvos, 4 Audis and a Range Rover. If you look at any HG you will see the points that need to be sealed and how the HG addresses them. Throw in all the head bolts, properly torqued, and there should be no issues if the prep work is thorough. It has to be clean, not perfect. No bumps, small divots are fine. Most instances of failure I have read about is caused by leaving old gasket material behind, improper torquing or warped heads being reinstalled. Numerous cases of cheap eBay gaskets. Most major brands are not going to cause an issue. If FCP sells them they should be reputable - at least if they have been selling the same line for a few years.

If you look at the HG you will see that black layer outside coating - once torqued down that stuff seals very well. You should have learned this when cleaning the block deck and the head.

3) Have you looked into the videos on how to easily take out the valve stem retainers to get to the seals using a hammer, magnet and socket? Removal is the easy part.

Timing belt questions

Re: Timing belt questions