Just installed a SACER tps. Need help

[sixvolvos]

To Mr. Yehuda

Can you be more specific with the instructions on installing the SACER unit?

Step 6 says "solder the three pins from the sensor on one side".
Solder them to what"
From which sensor, the old one or the SACER unit?
Then in Step 7 it says "...second pin from the controller from the other old sensor."
From which controller, old one or new one?
What is the "other old sensor"? Do you mean the other end of the same ETM assembly?
I don't understand the pictures below the Step 7.
It says, "as in the photo below". There are two photos, one with an arrow pointing and saying, "DISCONNECT"

Can you please be more precise? I need to have my mechanic to fully understand before he takes things apart. He will charge me for the time he spends wondering about the instructions. The car is a '99 S70 turbo and the labor to get the ETM out and back in is expensive. In addition the car can be out of service for only one day.
Thanks,
Sixvolvos

[precopster]

Have you tried to PM him (personal message?)

Follow PAGE 2 of this thread; it makes far more sense. https://www.matthewsvolvosite.com/forums ... hp?t=38504
IF VOLTAGE MATCHING CAN'T BE ACHIEVED TO SOME DEGREE OF ACCURACY THIS INSTALL WILL FAIL.

The last time a mechanic attempted a Sacer install I had to fully disassemble it to remove globs of putty that had dropped into the return spring and then charge the customer around $300 in labour to repair it. Most mechanics are just not familiar with electronic boards. An auto electrician would be better for this job.

I would take the throttle body to a TV repairman as they are more familiar with disassembly of boards and testing devices for calibration. If this doesn't make sense enlist the services of one of the throttle body rebuilders on eBay that do the work for peanuts (around $250) You can negotiate your Sacer sensor inclusion at around $80 off their fee.

I've fitted the Sacer sensor to around 18 units now and I can say that it's easily 2.5-3 hrs each time including calibration and resealing. Resealing the unit requires a whole day of drying time as I reseal in stages; first I reseal the contact end while the aluminium plate is off allowing sealant fumes to escape which takes a full day then I reseal the plate.

[Golf2]

Hi guys,

I decided to have a go at this repair myself so I opened up the ETM today. Before removing anything I checked the voltages from both the 3 pin side and 5 pin side.
The readings I got from the 3 pin side were fine but on the 5 pin side I get 0 volts at all 5 pins. Does this mean the ETM is beyond repair?

Thanks!

[wizechatmgr]

Sounds like it may have failed fully with both sensor channels having went bad or a board issue (likely a bad 5V regulator would be my guess.) Someone with more experience on this will confirm/deny.

[precopster]

If you get no voltage to the outer pins 1 & 5 after switching ignition to Pos II then I would worry. Is throttle plate moving and clicking with ignition on? You have about 8 secs to test and within that time you should see throttle flap movement.

I've seen afew corroded potentiometer strips which would cause 0V at between Pin 2 & 4 so no need to worry just yet.

The potentiometer film is a variable resistor. If it has a break you'll see 0V b/w 2 & 4

A better method is to find out which is the +positive terminal and get a ground elsewhere

[Golf2]

Thanks for your replies!

When I switch the ignition to position 2 I do hear the flap move and the click sound as if everything is normal.

I must admit, I definitely left it longer than 8 seconds before testing the voltages on the 5 pin TPS. I tested the 3 pin side first so it would have been a minute or so later that I tested the 5 pin side and saw 0v at all 5 pins using chassis ground.

Should the 12v supply always be present at pin 1 and 5 even after the initial 8 seconds?

The voltage readings I took on the 3 pin side were still present even after a few minutes of ignition on.

Thank you very much for your help, it is appreciated!

Tom

[precopster]

If you hear the click the throttle has power to the flap.

If you ground your meter on one lead to strut top or other ground and try to get a voltage on either pin 2 OR pin 4 that will tell you if the board has the ability to accept the Sacer sensor

[Golf2]

Thanks, that it what I tried initially but it was more than 8 seconds after switching on the ignition.

I'll try again later during the first 8 seconds.

Thanks again.

Tom

[precopster]

No need to test the throttle flap any more; the flap is working. There are 2 different circuits at play on the 5 pin side.

1) Throttle flap power using pins 1 & 5
2) Sensor 1 resistor using pins 2,3 & 4

The 2 circuits work independently of each other. Once pin 2 receives the variable voltage (from 1.4 to 5V) it gets processed by the board and gets reduced to around 0.5-1.5V for output to the ECM

[Golf2]

Thanks for the information, so as long as I can see a voltage on either pin 2 of 4 then I should be ok?

From the tests I already did, I had no voltage at any of the 5 pins unfortunately.

I will test again later just in case I did something wrong.

Tom