Just installed a SACER tps. Need help

[mearsy2200]

Ok folks I need your expertise. Any help would be appreciated.

Thanks to Yehuda for the part, now I just need to figure out where my problem is.

I have a 2000 Volvo s70 2.4 non-turbo. I was experiencing some throttle issues as expected with the ETM's in this car. My idle was fine but many times when I would hit the gas in low gear the car would jerk forward. I just got done installing the SACER tps but the car is still not running right. I think it might be in limp home mode. Car will rev up to 2k rpms at startup and sometimes stay there for a bit before slowly going back down to normal idle speed. Idle bounces and is rough. When I hit the gas and let go it revs up two more times on its own. Here are some pictures. Having trouble uploading a video I will try to get that up soon.

Hall effect sensor. Everything looks good to me here.

2012-08-15 18.35.57.jpg (125.11 KiB) Viewed 7551 times

The 5 prong coil side TPS. The wire on the right broke of initially because I accidentaly took off the wrong tps at first but I broke the cap off and resoldered both. With the black prong of the mulitmeter on the negative battery terminal to ground, they both read 12v.

2012-08-15 18.28.59.jpg (127.2 KiB) Viewed 7551 times

New TPS installed and resoldered. Voltage from left to right: 0V, 9V, 2V

2012-08-15 18.28.11.jpg (125.85 KiB) Viewed 7551 times

5 prong side with new wire soldered. Voltage from left to right: 12V, 0V, 9V, 2.5 V, 12V

2012-08-15 18.27.39.jpg (120.9 KiB) Viewed 7551 times

Wiring boot. Both inside prongs do not read any voltage. Both outside do.

2012-08-15 18.25.13.jpg (123.35 KiB) Viewed 7551 times

Maybe it has something to do with the two prongs reading zero. Help!

[JimBee]

First I would eliminate the MAF. If it's working erratically, it can send false signals to the ECU to inject more or less fuel than is correct for the amount of air coming in.
Just measure the voltage on pin 4. When you peel back the plug boot you'll see the pin numbers. Use your digital meter. You should have a steady voltage at idle of about 1.0 v. + or - .1 v. Rev the rpms. The voltage should rise steadily, smoothly corresponding to rpm's, to a max of about 4.5 v. If the voltages are jumping around at all those a jumpy signals to the ECU for more or less fuel.

EDIT: I just found this, which might be helpful:
http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f13/bad- ... ng-420867/

[precopster]

The outer 2 prongs of the 5 prong side are at 12V because they power up the coil through the front TPS sensor and over to the 2 wires that you resoldered when you took off the wrong cap.

In other words the caps are the same except that the front cap routes the wires for the coil.

I have attached a ETM diagnostic sheet as well as a code conversion sheet.

As you can see by the ETM troubleshooting chart NOT ALL ETM faults lay with the sensors.

I guess if you're throwing $140 at it instead of $650-$700 it's worth a try, though if there are no ETM related codes that's not where I would start. A correct diagnosis really begins with a code scan. If the ETS light is not lit you are likely shooting in the wrong gallery.

Make sure you pin down the front sensor wire from the Sacer TPS with sealer to avoid chafing with the aluminium cover while the motor vibrates. Also PLEASE twist that copper wire and tin it with solder before resoldering it. The vibration in the unit will fatigue these strands and they may break.

[mearsy2200]

ETS light is on. It wasn't on earlier when I went to the parts shop but I found that the ETM boot wasnt on all the way, oops. I got 3 codes.

P0225 TPS MAL
P0220 TPS MAL

Apparently these two codes are thrown when there is a difference between the voltage on the two potentiometers. Whatever that means.

P1603 Specific Powertrain

This one is caused by low battery voltage or dirt build up on the ETM housing. I am going to assume its the former because of the first two codes.

My car is definitely in limp home mode from what I read. Also, the strip in the old TPS was definitely worn through in several spots so if it wasn't the problem in the first place I am thinking I would have needed to replace it sooner or later.

Any suggestions from here? Maybe a software update? Thanks for the PDFs!

[mearsy2200]

JimBee,

I pulled off the MAF and did not get a reading at all on pin 4. Could this be because it is in limp home mode?

[precopster]

Well you do have a difference between the voltages on the two sensor sides. One of your sensors has 2.0V and the other has 2.5V. P1603 can also be a weak power stage of the board going to the throttle plate armature.

The resistance of the 2 mechanical sensors will create a difference but now you're reading the voltage while the Sacer sensors are in circuit and they should be electrically equal.

These Sacer sensors can't be read out of circuit like a conventional potentiometer. The disconnected side (the one with the 2 terminals poking out) would read between 2K ohms and 5K ohms OUT OF CIRCUIT (disconnected from circuit) depending on the throttle angle.

It looks as though the power stage of the board has failed or the impedance of the sensing side of the circuit has changed on one side, possibly due to failing components. A drop of 0.5 V is a 20% difference when starting at 2.5V

This will result in a code because this will consume extra current and cause heating up of the board.
Did you have codes before swapping the sensors or just the poor driving characteristics?
Secondly did you remove the film from the old sensor and take a look at it? Was it worn?
The other point is that even though the OUTPUT from side 2 has been disconnected the impedance of this sensor strip must be OK for the board to work correctly. If the sensing strip that's still in (side 2) has corrosion on the sensing strip or if the strip is broken it may read back to the board incorrectly.

My advice is to source a replacement with the same software version (this should alleviate a reload) Colour of the sticker is an indication but the owner may have updated the software at Volvo so unforunately there are no guarantees.
Recently I sourced a white stickered S80T6 ETM for my non-turbo 1999 V70 and it worked perfectly.

[Yehuda]

Hi,

according to your description that you sent to my email you had a problem related to the transmission, for this problem i suggest you to replace the transmission fluid with volvo ATF or toyota T-IV ATF.

replace at the same time the B4 servo cover, here: http://www.ipdusa.com/products/5538/107 ... ver-update

use this excellent guide: http://www.freewebs.com/howardsvolvos/driveline.htm

for the ETM problem, precopster is probably right that the ETM got defective, you can try to take out both TPS (5 pins & the new 3 pins) & solder them back, if it doesn't work, my best suggestion is to look on eBay for used ETM & install the contactless tps on it, but this time you'll remember to avoid touching the 5 pins tps. save the S/W reload cost for the 2nd ETM, because you'll most probably need it.

[mearsy2200]

Well it seems I found my problem. Apparently I didn't cut the bolt in the magnet far enough down. I noticed a scratch mark on the tps. I cut it down another eight of an inch and BAM! no more codes and the car is driving smoothly. The bolt was just barely touching and this is probaby what was causing the impedence and voltage difference. Hopefully this can be of help to someone else installing. Now my only problem is the transmission is sticking when the car warms up. I'll get the fluid changed out, thanks!

[precopster]

Did Yehuda enclose the Sacer instruction sheet with the sensor?

I have attached it for you and anyone else doing this repair. It's interesting that even the manufacturer of the product doesn't know that a software reload isn't necessary on the original throttle body.

Did you resolder all that exposed copper on the black wire?

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[precopster]

This is a woops post -not intentional


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