need help with 89 volvo 740gle
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BARRYALLEN50
- Posts: 25
- Joined: 6 September 2007
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need help with 89 volvo 740gle
100,000 miles four cyl. car runs very good but justs cut out and stops. i have replace both fuel pumps and the filter and the fuel relay. also the plus, plug wires. starts fine then when wam shuts down. sometimes hard to restart other times starts right up. could this be the coil. just started getting service eng light. first time this came on. hopefully you can help. this is our only car . wife diabled need car bad. thanks
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dripcandles
- Posts: 60
- Joined: 20 January 2007
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- Location: Saratoga, NY
I had a similar problem on a 240. It was a bad fuse contact under the hood that was to the fuel pump. That wouldnt cause the service engine light though. Read the codes and see where they lead.
1998 V70XC , 1990 240
Just read your previous post from Nov 2nd. To me, it sounds like it could be your crankshaft position sensor. It's located on the upper bellhousing behind the engine. Kind of a pain to get to, but relatively easy and cheap to replace.
3 Volvos: '96 S90: 70k, '00 S70: 126K, '90 740: 139K
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BARRYALLEN50
- Posts: 25
- Joined: 6 September 2007
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i know what the service eng light is. time to change oil. starts right up when cold. warms up then just shut right off. it will resart immed. most of the time just sometimes hard to restart. sometimes as it is rolling to a stop the eng. start back up on its own. hard to explain.
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wojeepster
- Posts: 259
- Joined: 15 November 2005
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- Location: Hendersonville, NC
I vote for the pickup in the distributor. There is a writeup on how to go about replaceiing it. You can get it at www.fpcgroton.com I will try to find the writeup and post a link here.
http://www.brickboard.com/FAQ/700-900/E ... all_Sensor
http://www.brickboard.com/FAQ/700-900/E ... all_Sensor
If this car is a non turbo, there is no pick-up in the distributor, if it is a Turbo, then there is one.
A proper diagnosis needs to start with checking codes if applicable, before anything is touched on the car, to prevent inducing false codes.
If there's no codes, then try to see if it has spark to the spark plugs, and fuel pressure to the injectors.
Also, like dripcandles stated, check the engine fuse on the left fender. It's a 25 amp fuse.
After you drive the car, you can touch that fuse with your finger, it shouldn't be very hot, if it is, there is too much resistance in the fuse holder/terminals.
I always replace the fuse and holder and use plenty of die-electric grease in the terminal holder cavities. Just make sure you disconnect the battery when doing it, since it is connected directly to the battery.
Pulling this fuse also erases your DTC's.
B
A proper diagnosis needs to start with checking codes if applicable, before anything is touched on the car, to prevent inducing false codes.
If there's no codes, then try to see if it has spark to the spark plugs, and fuel pressure to the injectors.
Also, like dripcandles stated, check the engine fuse on the left fender. It's a 25 amp fuse.
After you drive the car, you can touch that fuse with your finger, it shouldn't be very hot, if it is, there is too much resistance in the fuse holder/terminals.
I always replace the fuse and holder and use plenty of die-electric grease in the terminal holder cavities. Just make sure you disconnect the battery when doing it, since it is connected directly to the battery.
Pulling this fuse also erases your DTC's.
B
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BARRYALLEN50
- Posts: 25
- Joined: 6 September 2007
- Year and Model:
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cant find the fuse drivers side. i dont know my left or right. checked both sides under hood
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BARRYALLEN50
- Posts: 25
- Joined: 6 September 2007
- Year and Model:
- Location:
a big thank you to everyone who is tring to help us. i have a guy coming today that maybe able to find the prob. i just cant find that darn fuse. hope thats it. AGAIN A BIG THANKS 
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